"Tony" DP Pics
#26
Originally Posted by firedog25
I'd probably mount the bung as close to the turbo as possible. Even in the manifold if I could really, as close to where gasses from all four cylinders meet as possible.
Most wideband manufacturers recommend that the wideband be mounted in a position that any condensate would drain away from the sensor(pointing down) and at least 18" from the turbo to limit heat damage. As long as it is before the cat, you're golden.
#29
Stock GReddy DP location of the o2 sensor worked out perfectly for my WB. I have the Innovate LC-1. No error codes from my WB. Worked so well that I had Tony put my o2 sensor bung in the lower stock location. I've read from the Innovate forum that some guys (with totally different turbo setups on diff cars) had sensor overheating issues/error codes with the sensor too close to the turbos, but that can be fixed with a small heat sink so either location should work fine. YMMV.
#30
Originally Posted by olderguy
wideband be mounted in a position that any condensate would drain away from the sensor(pointing down) and at least 18" from the turbo to limit heat damage. As long as it is before the cat, you're golden.
Then how about pretty much the same place as the stock Greddy position, but on the side where it's much more accessible? I'll mark it on the pipe I ship to Tony.
#34
Tony's is more of a bellmouth type downpipe. Much like the various, more inexpensive downpipes you'd find for the WRX. It's much smoother of a merge than the stock and it's 2.5" so you won't find me whining about it not being a true "divorced" wastegate separation.
Also, I do not think the BEGi fits the Greddy.
Also, I do not think the BEGi fits the Greddy.
#36
Hi All,
I just put in the Tony DP and it fit great. The two piece set up allowed me to put it on without having to take off the turbo/manifold. I used a regular 2.5 inch exhaust clamp to bolt the two pieces together. I didn't have enough room for the V-band clamp so I made due with what I had. Also I had to cut out a large piece of my bowser heatshield to accomodate the O2 sensor. I should have told Tony to relocate that, but at the time of ordering I didn't know any better.
Also while I was at it I put on an Enthuza 2.5 stainless catback and opted to keep my 2.5 race cat instead of going for straight pipe set-up. The car really moves now on the top end and some mid range increase. I personally don't feel that big a difference on the low-end that most people mention. I.E. dropping the boost from say 3500 rpms to 3000 rpms. Fit again on the enthuza was pretty good as well. I've heard that they fit poorly but not the used one I got.
I would have put in my IC and pipes, but me and my friends were too exhausted in the blistering heat to do anymore. Until next friday.
=)
I just put in the Tony DP and it fit great. The two piece set up allowed me to put it on without having to take off the turbo/manifold. I used a regular 2.5 inch exhaust clamp to bolt the two pieces together. I didn't have enough room for the V-band clamp so I made due with what I had. Also I had to cut out a large piece of my bowser heatshield to accomodate the O2 sensor. I should have told Tony to relocate that, but at the time of ordering I didn't know any better.
Also while I was at it I put on an Enthuza 2.5 stainless catback and opted to keep my 2.5 race cat instead of going for straight pipe set-up. The car really moves now on the top end and some mid range increase. I personally don't feel that big a difference on the low-end that most people mention. I.E. dropping the boost from say 3500 rpms to 3000 rpms. Fit again on the enthuza was pretty good as well. I've heard that they fit poorly but not the used one I got.
I would have put in my IC and pipes, but me and my friends were too exhausted in the blistering heat to do anymore. Until next friday.
=)