Savington

iTrader: (31)

Ask and ye shall receive. This is the same exact setup that produced ~135kpa on the dyno this morning. Low-boost can (179282), 5 turns of preload on the flapper (as few as you can get and still get the nut all the way on the actuator rod). I swapped to an off-the-shelf catted 3" Enthuza and started autotuning on the way home tonight. Peak boost is 147.4kpa, so I'll call that 7psi.

This pull is 2-3-4 from a 6-speed/3.636 combo. Butt dyno says ~185whp. No creep whatsoever.

6ENsM8Y.png

I'm well aware that several others have had creep issues, but it never made any sense to me, and it really doesn't make any sense now. If I had to throw a guess out there, I would say that the wastegate can alignment is really, really easy to screw up. ~2 degrees either way and the flapper would get pulled up and bind, and you saw that a binding wastegate would screw stuff up on Gordon's car.

Anyway, it's totally doable, and I'd love to see a couple other people get their setups dialed in like this one is. There's no reason why stock motor crew can't enjoy EFR goodness.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Well that's really good news. Because G's car was a nightmare in that regard, and even after all that effort I'm not 100% satisfied with it. Perhaps it's just that janky bumpy housing that's causing it, who knows.

I've seen plenty of applications where it gets blown open up top (these are MAN BOOST cars, obviously) but it was a 1st for me to see it bind, creep, and then just be really shaky in boost even with the medium can.

Yours looks way smoother.

EErockMiata

can has tse trubro

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Wow that manifold looks hella spiffy. Definitely deserves coating goodness.

Lokiel

This describes my current setup perfectly (it binds badly due to the re-clocked turbo) so I'm glad to hear it's not an issue with the TSE manifold and is why I'm in on the initial Group Buy of the manifold after Savington responded to my queries regarding this concern.

IMO this is the biggest issue with the EFR turbos and DIY manifolds. If I was to do it over again with a DIY manifold, I'd build it with an external wastegate and forget about the internal wastegate - it's one less unknown to deal with that really makes or breaks a build.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Just a quick FYI on pricing for those of you on the fence. The 10 or so of you who got in on the GB in June are my special friends, so you guys will get discounted pricing on everything else that we release for the kit, including the EFR-specific inconel studs, downpipes, oil/water line kits, and the intercooler kit when we release that in the spring.

If you are ordering a kit today, you're also going to qualify for discounted pricing on some of those same items. It won't be quite as deep of a discount, and it may not be on every item (the cheaper stuff may not be discounted at all), but it will be something.

If you wait until we have manifolds in stock, you'll get your parts immediately, but you'll have to pay for the privilege.

IOW, get off the fence and get in.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Dang. I was going to try to buy Gesso out of his early slot, but you loaned him the model on Sunday to see if it would fit in the Exowhatever and now he's talking about keeping the manifold

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Will / are you offering coatings on the manifold/turbo/downpipe?

stoves

iTrader: (1)

^^ Asking the important questions I was thinking about this the other day, but didn't follow through. It would be awesome to be able to get the manifold and DP sent straight to Swaintech or another ceramic coater before they come to me.

Eventually I'll get around to taking the turbo apart and sending the turbine housing to be coated on the outside.

EDIT: I got worried for a second because there was so much nut swinging going on over that other cast manifold. I thought the site went crazy and people lost their minds.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

At some point, yes. Keep in mind that the material (347SS) already keeps more heat inside the manifold.

Ceramic coatings are hard to do correctly. 80% of the coatings I see on cars are cracked or flaked off really quickly. There are only two, maybe three companies that I would trust to coat a manifold and have it hold up over time. I will probably leave coatings to you guys to start out with, and make some recommendations for sources.

Swain Tech Coatings | Industrial Coatings | High Performance Racing Coatings | Technical coatings to solve problems of heat, wear, corrosion, and friction

Embee Performance

tazswing

It is very easy to send things off to Swain.

I don't know tons about these turbos for the Miata, but do they manage boost well or is an external wastegate an option? I run a re-routed EWG on my Outback and love the easy to nail boost and frankly it is quieter than some intake systems.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Look up at post #681. The EFR's internal wastegate gives up nothing to an EWG setup. If we can maintain 7psi with a full 3" exhaust, there's absolutely no reason to add the complexity and cost of an EWG to the setup.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I would coat this downpipe so hard.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

Having reviewed the manifold & EFR from recent photos... I can definitely say the TSE EFR Manifold is on my to do list next year.

tazswing

Awesome and I would agree on complexity...well, and esp. on cost. It has just not been my experience with past turbo applications, esp. if you remove a cat.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Going from the stock 2.25" exhaust to the 3" Enthuza exhaust brought the peak boost up by ~12kpa. Removing the cat won't make an appreciable difference. The boost control is solid

18psi

iTrader: (76)

how many degrees did you have to clock the chra to get it to not bind?
looks like 15-20 from the pics

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I would guess ~15deg. I will try to measure it tomorrow. That slight angle also allows the drain line to clear the factory lower coolant hose.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

The only thing I worry about with internal waste gate is the problem I have had with my turbo because of the way my front housing is clocked (discharge at approximately the 3 o'clock position). I am worried that I will need to completely start from scratch with my charge piping rather than just adjust. Mind you, this is because I had to do something different, but I like it. Either way, EFR is in my future.