Will this include a welded bung on the coldside for a GM IAT sensor?

It should at least be offered as an optional extra - I'm betting most would want it rather than tapping it themselves and hoping that those 2 or 3 tapped threads hold up over time.

 

LIKE

 

 

I am torn on the drill+tap vs. bung thing. On one hand, yes, a bung is "better".

On the other hand, it is a lot more expensive, and IMO unnecessary. The wall thickness of the intercooler endtank is 3/16", which puts 3 complete threads in the endtank if you drill/tap to 3/8"-18 NPT for a GM IAT sensor. The oil pan is thinner than that, and the kit requires that you do exactly the same thing there (drill/tap). Drilling/tapping the IC endtank has been standard procedure here for a couple of years, with no issues with functionality or concerns about the threads pulling out. Remember that you're threading a brass sensor into the threads, not steel.

I am loath to add the cost (it would add ~$50 to the part) to gain zero functionality over a simple tapped hole, personally.

Product page up here: Trackspeed 350hp Intercooler

 

Agreed on the end tank thickness.

But welded bungs are sexxxxy.

 

I've put an AIT sensor in an aluminum intercooler pipe. One thread is all you need to hold it in place while the JB weld sets. Those giant cast end tanks on the Precision cores need no bung.

 

JB for the bunghole?

 

Hey Savington

Could you provide us NA owners with an update on when you're getting downpipes back in stock for our cars?

 

Savington - For some flexibility to installations, I have used a PCV grommet with the GM plastic IATs without any troubles on a couple cars. That is in street use and 15 psi max. Though with a BOV it was obviously higher at times. I have never had one come out. Have not pressure tested a pipe for what would blow it out or cause seeping. ( might have to do that) The 01 for the first time has it in the intercooler with a grommet but all the others were in the piping. Over 20k on the 01 and close to 50k on the 95 I think. I was going to weld one up but since they have not pushed out or appeared to leak I decided not to bother. My backup plan if they did exit was going to be a washer style bracket with tangs that slipped over the IAT with a couple zip ties. (On the piping of course). Just thought I would share. Your kit is amazing and top notch. I have not had to do any maintenance to my system. I love it. No leaks, no re-tightening of bolts. No fuss. PCV grommets don't fit the theme of awesomeness you have built so I get it if not your cup of tea.

 

Unsurprisingly, I would strongly recommend against using a PCV gromet or any method of friction-fit to secure an IAT in a boosted system. Our kits will use 3/8" NPT threads to retain a proper GM IAT sensor.

 

Does anyone have photos of hot side piping for the NA?

Surprised there are not more pictures of these kits installed in general actually..

 

Must be because everyone that installs one just can't stop driving it to take pictures

 

most of the photos are in build threads. So find one with a TSE kit and start digging.

 

I asked this question last week in the DIY section. several good suggestions

https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...-piping-96640/

 

I've done a lot of digging.

Thanks! Hope to see your results when complete.

 

I finally got my Trackspeed kit installed and my car ready for our first Time Attack event of the year. Cars are classes by power to weight ratio. I have to give huge props to Andrew on this kit, first event out and my co-driver not only won our class, but set the fastest time of any street legal car, even those on Hoosiers. We were on 245 Maxxis VR-1s. We never turned a wrench and only fiddled with tire pressure...what an amazing kit! Car was running 8 lbs. of boost on E85 with the 6758 EFR to stay below our classes 9:1 weight to power ratio.

FYI...I run the Flyin' Miata silicon intercooler piping and it works beautifully with the TSE kit for those waiting for a final solution. I run the Treadstone TR6 intercooler with the inlet and outlet towards the bottom of the intercooler, I don't think the FM pipes would work with an intercooler with the inlet and outlet in the middle.

 

Hey, thanks for this. I was contemplating running the pre-formed pipes as well, with the outlet clocked downward as they use it. Just ordered my TSE kit and working on piecing the plumbing together.

 

Congrats! Does the downpipe insulation work well or are you going to add a heatshield as well?

 

I'm using a product called Heatsheild Armor on the downpipe, it is a fiber based insulation with a metal backing. It holds the shape of the downpipe well and just needs a few exhaust zip ties to hold it in place. Between that and the gold reflective tape, it seams to be addequite for street use and Autocross/Time Attack. I think I would want to add a heat shield if I were to do extended track sessions.

 

Whoops, double post, this can be deleted.