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Old 08-15-2014, 04:06 PM   #1
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Default True cost for a solid kit?

Most kits in my experience are missing something or there are hidden costs. for example, engine management is junk, drivetrain can't support the power etc. what would I really be getting into if I decided to go turbo?

My engine may need to be replace soon anyhow.

I have considered a LFX swap because it is almost as cheap as a miata engine.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:29 PM   #2
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Show us a kit and we can tell you what it's missing and you can figure out how much it costs to buy that stuff. Some kits are going to come with everything you need, others will need a clutch, or injectors, fuel pump, engine management, o2 sensor, gauges, exhaust, etc.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:29 PM   #3
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The definition of a solid kit depends heavily on your power goals.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:30 PM   #4
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Good questions.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyotani View Post
The definition of a solid kit depends heavily on your power goals.
How about reliable power on a stock engine?
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:31 PM   #6
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Do you have any fabrication skills? How are your shopping skills in comparison to your research skills?
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:35 PM   #7
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Let's just say I would rather deal with a bolt on kit. No welding. Wiring is fine and I have a mspnp already.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:35 PM   #8
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scareyourpassenger View Post
Let's just say I would rather deal with a bolt on kit. No welding. Wiring is fine and I have a mspnp already.

FM2 no-electronics kit. Add injectors, fuel pump (maybe), and a clutch.

Roll out.

If i were to build another Miata from scratch and for whatever reason wanted to stay with a BP, this is exactly what i'd do. Easy and bulletproof button. I don't give a **** about the last 5-10% of performance on a street car. If i want to go faster, i throw together a bottom end and crank the **** out of the boost. Add bigger turbo as necessary.

Last edited by concealer404; 08-15-2014 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:46 PM   #10
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^ word.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:51 PM   #11
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all the info you need is on this site. Just gotta read.

If I were shooting for a reliable 220 ish whp on a budget this is what I would do:

-begi s kit (call and ask for a price minus the FPR and intake cross over tube)
-rebuilt sr20 turbo
-ebay universal intercooler kit + whatever BOV you want
-diypnp from brain +wide band + 440cc or more injectors
-clutch kit
-3 in exhaust (2.5 could work too)

or just troll sell threads for a used kit.
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:33 PM   #12
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You want the simplest answer?

FM non electronics kit.
Add ecu, wideband, injectors, clutch, and exhaust.

Done
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:52 PM   #13
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Expect about $5000 spent to get 200-220whp in a reliable setup, if you do all the installation and tuning yourself.
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:02 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Expect about $5000 spent to get 200-220whp in a reliable setup, if you do all the installation and tuning yourself.
This is pretty accurate. When I was contemplating buying a NA Miata and building the turbo kit myself I had roughly around this number.


I don't want to do the math on how much money the original owner+what I added cost....
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Old 08-17-2014, 11:01 AM   #15
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$500 for injectors
$500 for clutch
$1000 for MS + wideband
$3000 for a hardware kit from FM/Begi
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Old 08-17-2014, 11:17 AM   #16
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Or buy an OEM msm turbo setup, rx8 yellow injectors, ecu of your choice, 2.5 inch catless exhaust and make 220whp 240wtq at 12psi on a conservative tune. And of course a clutch to hold up.
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Old 08-18-2014, 12:02 PM   #17
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the oem ihi turbo system sucks and is always overpriced.

and will still bring to to about the same price using a sub-par turbo known for failing and a manifold that only accepts sub-par turbos, and a DP that's-you guessed it--sub-par.
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Old 09-19-2014, 01:10 AM   #18
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I love simplicity. Bolt on a Greddy and live happily everafter.

I am also fudging a bit.

We've been busy creating the world's first COMPLETE 350 rwhp turbo kit for the Miata.

Contents:
Forged pistons
Prepared and ported cylinder head
Manley con rods
Race bearings
Gasket set
Other Internals
New timing belt
New Water pump
New intake manifold
70MM throttle body
Turbo
4 into one cast ductile iron manifold
Speed density engine management
Suitably sized injectors
Coil on plug conversion
3.0 dual parallel cat mufflerless exhaust system
cork's bypass valve
Remote wastegate
250 square inch paper element air filter
Aluminum tubes
24 inch tube IC
New bell housing
New clutch, P Plate & TOB + pilot bearing
T5 Super duty gearbox, special gearing, with mounts, shifter and driveshaft
New 3rd member with 2.9 gears
Wilwood brake systems
Bilstein coil overs
Four of the latest Tires
Roll Bar
Replacement harness with Simpson's best
Delete mechanism for steering lock
Quality crash helmet
Oil cooler
Rear thermostat kit
Larger, cross flow radiator
Air duct kit
Innovative O2 meter
Engine Oil
Coolant
Bosch Fuel pump
Fuel cell
New oil filter
Transmission oil
Diff oil
Two days of one on one instruction at Harris Hill Track in San Marcos, Texas.
Price Cobb Instructor
And,

I'm about to get on a roll here. So, what does 'complete' mean?

corky
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Old 09-19-2014, 08:46 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corky Bell View Post
So, what does 'complete' mean?

When everything you order arrives?
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Old 09-19-2014, 09:55 AM   #20
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When all of it arrives, on time, and all the correct parts, and nothing missing, and with valid instructions, and all of it fits, and all of it works together, and there are no excuses or bs.

Hey Corky, can you ask Stephanie to familiarize herself with all these concepts?
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