Turbo Failure? Boost Leak? Bad Gasket? WHAT THE HELL IS THIS SOUND?! - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 11-15-2006, 11:22 PM   #41
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Not to highjack your thread here, but is it safe to run at 90psi of oil pressure? My pressures are the same, 60-90 when cold, then 30-60 after warm. When its cold I shift at 2,000 rpm to keep the oil pressure at 60 or lower. Makes for SLOW driving. Is 90psi going to blow past the seals or harm anything?
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Old 11-16-2006, 12:02 AM   #42
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Thats not necessarially true because we are talking about the $1200 greddy kit. The begi and fm kits have very well made manifolds and downpipes, i personally have a begi kit and can testify to this. Besides, the sound is definitely not a gasket leak, it follows the spool of the turbo and therefore i believe it is the turbo, or possibly the bov.
I don't use a gasket on the turbo to manifold and I don't have any leaks (even before I replaced the broken studs). Guess my crappy greddy manifold is one of the lucky ones.
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Old 11-16-2006, 12:07 AM   #43
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Not to highjack your thread here, but is it safe to run at 90psi of oil pressure? My pressures are the same, 60-90 when cold, then 30-60 after warm. When its cold I shift at 2,000 rpm to keep the oil pressure at 60 or lower. Makes for SLOW driving. Is 90psi going to blow past the seals or harm anything?
yeah just shows that your oil pump is in working order. Now dont get me wrong saying driving at 90psi = ROMP ON THE GAS! just means your oil is cold and thick still. But you can still drive up to 3k rpm just dont like you know gas it hard to 3k drive like a granny and shift at 3k within 5 or so minutes the oil should warm up and within 10 or so minutes your water temp should go to normal ranges. Once both have gone to where they should feel free to romp on it!
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Old 11-16-2006, 06:39 PM   #44
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going to shop tomorrow to get numbers on the shaft play... but i cant seem to find like spec numbers for it. So yeah I'll get the numbers but I cant find the numbers that are "in range" for spec... yeah so uhh help?
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:01 PM   #45
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I don't know "in spec" numbers. But when i took one of my turbos in to TurboAuto Nashville they measured my shaft play to be 3 thousandths and said it wasn't that bad if that means anything to you. When it starts hitting the housings you have problems. Truthfully, the $70 complete rebuild kits on ebay are a hell of a deal for someone who wants a turbo that they know doesn't have worn bearings and has good seals. If you have the resources and you're worried, you'll prob spend 2 hrs rebuilding it and that is worth the peace of mind knowing it's good to go. IMO
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Old 11-16-2006, 10:12 PM   #46
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i heard something like a shriek only twice throughout the vid, it definately didnt sound like something exhaust oriented, sounded like a knife being dragged across a stainless steel top REALLY fast or something. i see how some can mistake it for a spool noise though.
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Old 11-16-2006, 11:06 PM   #47
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i heard something like a shriek only twice throughout the vid, it definately didnt sound like something exhaust oriented, sounded like a knife being dragged across a stainless steel top REALLY fast or something. i see how some can mistake it for a spool noise though.
K so can you point me in any directions that you might think? Car was driving fine with no noise then BLAM out of no where noise started... any ideas after hearing it?
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Old 11-17-2006, 12:05 AM   #48
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can you hear it in cabin with the windows and top up? possibly we could hear it better over wind noise.
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Old 11-17-2006, 02:43 AM   #49
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can you hear it in cabin with the windows and top up? possibly we could hear it better over wind noise.
yeah the only time on that video the window was down is when the camera is outside the car rest of the time my hard-top is on and the windows are up... and yes you can hear it with the top up and windows up and also with the windows down. I swear to god the noise is loudest right around where the bloody turbo is hence why in the video i try and hold the camera tword the front left of the car.
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Old 11-17-2006, 10:40 AM   #50
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time to leave it in the engine bay when you record. I still don't really hear anything out of the usual.
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Old 11-17-2006, 06:46 PM   #51
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well took it to school threw a dial indicator on there and the reading was 9 thousands to 14 thousands. WAY OUT OF SPEC. Took some people for a spin and they said it sounds like a bearing is fucked. 4 said a turbo bearing one way split between a engine bearing on the rod or the turbo. He said 75% sure turbo 25% engine but didnt think it was the engine due to not doing it during idle and also doing it the same under low load and high load. Anyway in a week or two going to rip the bastard back to N/A and send the turbo back.
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Old 11-17-2006, 07:52 PM   #52
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boo, see what GReddy will do for you. you could always rebuild, bu tthat sucks on a new turbo.
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Old 11-17-2006, 09:06 PM   #53
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boo, see what GReddy will do for you. you could always rebuild, bu tthat sucks on a new turbo.
**** that **** they can send me a god damn new one for some factory **** up of theirs =P.... hey you got any idea how the hell i can plug my Oil Return line in my oil pan lol? Or the bolt to block the oil feed thingy again?
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Old 11-18-2006, 12:59 AM   #54
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ok got the turbo off (mother ******* Flyin Miata lock washers are really good... tightened the **** out of the turbo to mani nuts. On the bottom of all the nuts you can see the pattern of the washer. Anyway it looks like some of the backside fins have small signs of damage like they might have made contact. Again what should I do about my drilled and tapped oil pan?
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Old 11-18-2006, 02:38 AM   #55
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What did you put in it? A hose barb? AN fitting? If you used the hose barb and rubber hose might be able to rig something. Maybe leave the hose attatched to the barb and plug the top of it and zip tie it up high? I would make sure its elevated and secure, and keep your eye on the oil pressure gauge. I hope someone here has a better solution, good luck.
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Old 11-18-2006, 02:45 AM   #56
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yeah it is a 1/2" hose thing
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