Find a roll of plastic and look at what everyone here made. You can do it with a straight edge, box cutter, and zip ties. I tried rivets on mine, but I go off-track at least once per day so I now use zip ties. Brain has great pics on his I believe...this is really easy to do and it works. I've run this car at 290whp for 2-hours in 100* heat as MSR-C and I'll run it at 98* at Hallett next weekend. I've never seen the water temp gauge (omori so it reads correctly) go above 180* even with triple digit temperatures tucked behind other cars for laps at a time.

 

Next time we are at the same event, identify youself! I'm sure I've seen you a number of times.

Great driver? No. Disjointed? Yes, my 26k mile Exedy Stage 1 clutch finally gave up at H2R on my first launch(line lock assisted).

There are many different ways to set up the IC/radiator/condenser stack. I spent more time thinking about it than it took to install the entire turbo, fuel and exhaust system.

The mindless test that made the decision for me was holding the intercooler up to a box fan and that very little airflow was coming through the core. I was shocked and it was very apparent that the radiator/condenser were going to be short on airflow.

The path I chose was to separate the IC and radiator as much as possible. I have a "small deflector" that guides air into the IC opening and the majority of the radiator airflow is coming from underneath via a plastic lip below the radiator like the 'vettes had. The separation greatly reduces heat soak when you are stopped.

Sealing and ducting is must. High pressure on the front side is good but it is about the pressure differential. Properly placed hood vents make a huge difference.

In RavynX's case, I don't think you can force enough air through the stack to make everything work considering how much heat the IC is dumping. The discharge temps from that blower are disturbing at 200°-300°.

Either way, it's a really nice car!

Stanford sucks! Do you know he ran his old four door street tired automatic BMW and won SSM a few times? Then to make us not feel so bad he took a bone stock S2k and smoked SSM again. Hopefully RavynX will be the one to give him some comp since he can actually drive.

 

lol and Stanford dominating.

I agree with you on everything but flow through the stacked TDR FMIC. The numbers are there in testing and driving on the track to indicate that IAC temps are dropping to nearly ambient at speed on the street and track. My buddy has before and after IC temp probes to monitor each, it works.

The moral of the story is that this dude needs to duct and buy a real radiator.

I miss hanging out with the "Skopes" crew.

 

Ι am running into the same problem too.
I have a coolant reroute and a bigger radiator. When I hit the a/c button the temp starts climbing and settles at 233F

 

Is your radiator ducted/chambered like everyone else here?

I'm going to start banning anyone who posts in here and ignores "ducting". DO NOT **** ME OFF!!!

 

Yes it is, but no stock under tray.

 

Well, maybe you know what to do now.

 

Hustler you have no idea what your talking about! The guy obviously needs the Hyper Status Internal Flowbusting Indoplasmic Reticulum.....Geez, you call yourself a moderator?

 

My friend informed me of the Mishimoto radiator. I haven't found much info here or miata.net on it but it does have a lifetime warranty on it. Anyone worked with it before or should I just stick with Koyo? Edit: Nevermind, found some comparison photos and it looks like Koyo has a better build quality.

I'm about to drain the coolant & check the thermostat. I can pull the bumper off if I have enough time today.

 

I say either buy the dirt cheap one or pony up the cash for the Trackspeed radiator, a Ron Davis, CRR, or maybe even some big *** "stock car" radiator.

 

Got caught up in a few things but finally got the thermostat out. Temperature between 185-200 F (analog thermometer for the oven is all I had at the time, need a digital one) and the thermostat opened halfway. Up in the 200-215 range the thermostat was open completely with the spring fully compressed.

 

Mishimoto 52mm has been very good to me. Koyo has been made in Malasamnesia and not Japan for several years anyway.

If you are going to put it on the track in a hot climate don't go small. Do it right and only do it once.

 

Cool, thanks for the info. I ordered the Koyo 53mm last night due to its history here. If that one fails on me at some point I will try out the Mishimoto. Hopefully it gets here by next weekend.

 

I've got a TDR with the original M1 MP62 4-rib (so roughly an R1 now), and I haven't had a lot of issues on the track with heat... but I also don't have any way of tracking temps with EMB....

I have found though, in stop-in-go and such like, with 30+ degree days the AC adding additional heat to the system is enough to get the gauge to move.

Another local car has the similar setup, but with MSPnP + the PWR rad, and temps at the track were mint.

Right now, I'm probably going to grab one of the PWRs (fitment issues with the TDR + Koyo on m1's...) and be done with it.....

Dave,

 

Hi Chris...never met you but I've seen you at the SASCA auto-x events. Looking forward to seeing your car at the next event. That's if I get my car back from BEGi before the next event.

 

Huh, interesting. I can understand the system heating up in stop-n-go traffic but does yours heat up while just cruising on the highway like mine has?

Ah, cool. Yeah, if you see me in grid just come up and introduce yourself. Do you autox as well or just go out to watch?

 

Yes I do auto-x #37 CSP, still a and switching to SSM when I get my car back. I'll be Stanford's fresh meat

 

Cover your anus with Jeff and Troy around. They touched my bad place.

 

 

All Photos... http://s389.photobucket.com/albums/o...undercarriage/





Intercooler. Horns in front of it.








Found where the exhaust rattle is coming from. Didn't happen until I scraped on 2 speed bumps though. Odd.