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Old 09-11-2010, 10:26 AM   #121
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FYI, the stock gauge sits at 11:30 between 170*F and 245 (or so) *F. You can verify this through the Hydra software.

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Old 09-11-2010, 10:51 AM   #122
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Well it shows us that you need to pull the head get it checked and replace the back head gasket. The A/C adds load in the whole rev range causing the leakage to increase and pushing coolant away from that hot spots in the water jacket.

You have very high leak down percentages and a huge lack of compression in cylinders 2 and 3.

Fix the head gasket and verify that head is good if it isn't fix it or replace it and move on!!!!

If you would have done this when BEGi reported the numbers to you, you could have been driving on the track by now. Stop throwing time and money in the wrong direction and pull the ******* head already!!!!

Can someone change his SIG to read

2000 Miata LS BROKEN. bought on ebay from some SCAMMER that sold it to him broken!
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Old 09-11-2010, 12:26 PM   #123
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This sounds about the same as mine.

Living in Canada I can run at 80mph all day in summer with A/C on.
Returning from Tail of the Dragon this year it was mid 90's + humid on I75. I had the stock gauge moving (so, friggin' hot right) anywhere over 70mph. If I stayed below 65 I could run A/C.
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Old 09-11-2010, 01:03 PM   #124
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Default Hey BarbyCar do the OP a favor and run a compression test ...

Hey BarbyCar do the OP a favor and run a compression test and a leak down test so he can see that you have the same issues he has.
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Old 10-20-2010, 12:32 PM   #125
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Update? You've had this car since May. I hope your on the track.
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Old 10-25-2010, 12:09 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacob300zx View Post
Update? You've had this car since May. I hope your on the track.
Sorry, I meant to reply sooner but I went on vacation and just got back into town. You would think they would have wifi at the airport or hotel but you either had to pay for it or it wasn't working. Ugh. Updated status...

Installed a Water Temp gauge about a month ago

Miata State: Supercharger pushing 10psi with front mount intercooler. No thermostat as per Corky's frankenstein cooling "fix"
Ambient: 95-100
Stoplight
no AC: 210-220
w/ AC: 230-240+
Cruising at 70-75mph
no AC: 210-218
w/ AC: 220-230
Maxes at 230-240+ when stopping after cruising


Miata State: Supercharger bypassed pushing 0psi (no boost) and removed the front mount intercooler. No thermostat
Ambient: 85-95
Stoplight
no AC: 195-200
w/ AC: 210-215
Cruising at 70-75mph
no AC: 160-180
w/ AC: 200-210
Maxes at 220 when stopping after cruising


Ambient temp of 70 I couldn't even get the temperature above 155 when cruising at 55 on the highway.

The night we removed the intercooler and bypassed the supercharger I was testing it on an unfamiliar road at night with no streetlights. A turn came up too fast and went through gravel and lost control into a cattle fence. This was on September 16. October 15 I received the car back from the body shop all fixed up. LC-1 wideband received in the mail when waiting for the body shop to finish so I will be installing that when I get back from vacation this weekend. A friend is parting out his turbo Miata so I am going to see if his v-mount setup will give the radiator enough airflow to provide proper cooling when the supercharger is pushing boost again. I will either have to get a vented hood or just cut a hole in my current one and get a hood scoop. I have a good feeling the v-mount setup will fix the issue but if it doesn't then I will probably either remove the AC or I will convert it back to naturally aspirated and sell off the supercharger, intercooler, and hydra unit and put it into track amenities. Once the motor gets rebuilt down the road I might seek out a turbo setup if the supercharger doesn't pan out. I just bought wheels/tires for the Miata and I just need to bolt in the 4 plates of the hard dog roll bar and change out the brakes & brake/clutch fluid and it will finally be ready to set foot on the track. Unbelievable how I've had the car for 5 months like you mentioned and it still hasn't see the track; damn forced induction & Texas heat. If I ever get enough time I will eventually take the head off and examine the gasket. I just don't have the time or garage space right now to do it on my own.
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Old 10-25-2010, 12:27 PM   #127
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I have no probs in 100* heat going hard on uphill twisties. Barely gets about 212*F.
I have a TDR i/c which is good about allowing cooling air for the radiator, a 1" CSF radiator, ducting which comes with the i/c, reroute, and huge-*** fans.
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Old 10-25-2010, 12:42 PM   #128
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We have all told him that the Texas heat should not be a problem. I ran last year in 105 heat on the same tracks the OP at 15 psi without any over heating issues.

The OP has an issue with a bad motor from his ebay find and he can throw all the money he wants at it but until he pulls the head and fixes his primary issue it will still be there!

RavynX pull the ******* head already and fix the motor!!!!
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Old 10-25-2010, 12:52 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eraser-X View Post
RavynX pull the ******* head already and fix the motor!!!!
Eraser-X...
Quote:
Originally Posted by RavynX View Post
If I ever get enough time I will eventually take the head off and examine the gasket. I just don't have the time or garage space right now to do it on my own.
If you're willing to spend the money for me to take it to a shop then by all means. In the mean time I'll do the things that I can on my own with the time that I have. You don't know that the head is bad, you're just guessing. From all of the tests that I have run it does not point to a bad headgasket, but it's still a possibility. I don't have the leeway of leaving the S2000 outside at night as theft occurs at my apartment complex.

Last edited by RavynX; 10-25-2010 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:08 PM   #130
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Chris,

You are spending money left and right on the car and you still have not fixed the issue that is causing the over heating. Corky told you that when doing a leak down they heard air passing both the intake and exhaust valves. They also gave you compression numbers that were what 30 PSI down on 2 cylinders.

Those numbers point to something broken! The report of the air passing on leak down tell you it is the HEAD not just the gasket! Do the tests again yourself get a cheap leak down tester and compression tester. Read a book or 2 on engine diagnostics and stop chasing your tail!

No reason to be a tool about this Chris, I am just try to get you back on track as you seem to be running off in the wrong direction yet again.

I think that the PO ran more boost then he could fuel before he upgraded to the Hydra and the car has been broken since then.
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Old 10-25-2010, 06:26 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eraser-X View Post
We have all told him that the Texas heat should not be a problem. I ran last year in 105 heat on the same tracks the OP at 15 psi without any over heating issues.

The OP has an issue with a bad motor from his ebay find and he can throw all the money he wants at it but until he pulls the head and fixes his primary issue it will still be there!

RavynX pull the ******* head already and fix the motor!!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eraser-X View Post
Chris,

You are spending money left and right on the car and you still have not fixed the issue that is causing the over heating. Corky told you that when doing a leak down they heard air passing both the intake and exhaust valves. They also gave you compression numbers that were what 30 PSI down on 2 cylinders.

Those numbers point to something broken! The report of the air passing on leak down tell you it is the HEAD not just the gasket! Do the tests again yourself get a cheap leak down tester and compression tester. Read a book or 2 on engine diagnostics and stop chasing your tail!

No reason to be a tool about this Chris, I am just try to get you back on track as you seem to be running off in the wrong direction yet again.

I think that the PO ran more boost then he could fuel before he upgraded to the Hydra and the car has been broken since then.
1) Can you give your automotive credentials? Just curious.

2) If Chris is such a tool, why are you trying to "help" him? How does it help to call him names and tell him that he's stupid?

3) If you are so sure of yourself, why don't you put your money where your mouth is?

A few of us locals are. Yes, we are spending our time and money to solve this issue.

Actually, I'm willing to put up CASH, right now, that says the ROOT CAUSE OF THE OVERHEATING IS NOT DUE TO THE HEAD GASKET, COMPRESSION OR LEAKDOWN. Any takers? If there are, we'll write up the details. The amount will probably be $500-$700. PM me if you are interested but be prepared to Paypal into a holding account. I am dead serious.

4) Are you calling Corky stupid? In idiot? A tool? Someone who needs to learn about the modern internal combustion engine?

Corky did the tests. If he thought that the root cause of the overheating was in the head then why wouldn't he have fixed it, or told Chris to fix it before doing anything else? No, the head isn't perfect but it isn't the root cause.

Just want to make it clear that Eraser-X is publicly calling Corky Bell stupid - and that he needs to "read a book or 2 on engine diagnostics and stop chasing his tail!"

5) Just because two (or 100) cars have the same basic parts, it does NOT mean that they will run the same. Besides, the intercooler, mounting, shrouding, radiator, fans, etc. are not exactly the same as anyone else's car. A subtle difference can change everything.

6) You go on to make more assumptions about the PO and what was done to the car w/o any real knowledge, facts or proof. That is the problem with the many useless posts in this thread and misinformation in general that floats around.

I normally don't like to get pissy online. I prefer face to face, it eliminates a lot of misunderstandings and you will also realize that the people who are lending Chris a hand aren't a bunch of dumbasses, but that probably doesn't matter to you.

I can see all the newb/sheep going out and doing their head the first time they overheat. The entire point is that when troubleshooting, you have to do what makes sense. Find the root cause. Don't do something just because the internet told you to.

I'm done with the pissing contest on this thread. I apologize for this rant. If I post again on this thread it will only be hard facts. If you want to talk face to face pm me.
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Old 10-25-2010, 06:44 PM   #132
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Pulling the t stat is not a solutuion. Yes Corky pulled the t stat.
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Old 10-25-2010, 06:45 PM   #133
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Quote:
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Pulling the t stat is not a solutuion. Yes Corky pulled the t stat.
Exactly, which is why I want to put it back in when doing the v-mount and undo the t-juction cooling route that he installed.
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Old 10-25-2010, 08:01 PM   #134
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Just out of interest my car had a blown headgasket and it would blow coolant out the overflow bottle under boost. It would also start to overheat and the heat wouldn't come down again until you revved the engine, kinda like the water pump was hosed.
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Old 10-25-2010, 08:06 PM   #135
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Originally Posted by saboteur View Post
Just out of interest my car had a blown headgasket and it would blow coolant out the overflow bottle under boost. It would also start to overheat and the heat wouldn't come down again until you revved the engine, kinda like the water pump was hosed.
Thanks for the input. Where was the headgasket blown at? For example, between two cylinders or another part?
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Old 11-02-2010, 04:50 AM   #136
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Between two cylinders and obviously between cylinders and coolant passage.
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Old 01-09-2011, 05:03 PM   #137
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Hey everyone, a friend and I just took apart the motor and still haven't found any "tell tale signs" of overheating. The headgasket looks okay, the water pump spins freely. Here are some photos...

Alright, Day 3 and the head is finally out! The headgasket got bent when we tried to remove it because there were 1 or 2 things still attached to the head that we missed; other than that nothing seems broken on it. The waterpump turns freely in my hand but I've never held one before so I don't know if it's turning too freely or not freely enough. We also installed new Mazda Competition motor mounts because it was so easy to access them from up top; it only took about 20 minutes for those.

Root directory: http://s389.photobucket.com/albums/o...underKnife/d3/









Cylinder 4


Cylinder 3


Cylinder 2


Cylinder 1
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Old 01-09-2011, 05:07 PM   #138
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Greg inserting the new motor mount


OLD Motor mounts, right one is nearly separated


Passenger Mount


Driver Mount






Headgasket


Other side...
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Old 01-17-2011, 05:35 PM   #139
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The head is currently up in Austin getting worked on. There was a slight dip in level in the middle two cylinders. I'm having him install the Mazdaspeed Miata intake camshaft, shave the head, port match, cut the valve seats and install new valve stem seals. I will also be replacing the following...

Headgasket (99-00 since I'm keeping the reroute)
Intake/Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
Raceland Header (because it was inexpensive)
Water Pump
Timing Belt
Idler & Tensioner pulleys
ARP Head Studs
Various gaskets
Freeze plug where water neck is (keeping the M-tuned reroute)
Crank Oil Seal.

The supercharger is off and will be for sale with the intercooler setup in the near future. I will be running naturally aspirated for track days for the next season or two until I decide if/when I want to go turbo.
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Old 01-18-2011, 01:32 AM   #140
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balla
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