miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

I have no idea why the pics loaded like that.

Edit: I fixed it.

I am not trying to crap in the race section with my N/A drag car, but I thought that maybe it would inspire someone else to try either revearse flow and or an electric pump.

RyanRaduechel

iTrader: (10)

I have been considering an electric pump. But wasnt sure if anyone else was running one. It looks great and functional. I run a CSR electric pump on my small block Dodge Dart. I love it. I will defiantly look into this for my car. Did you gut the stock water pump?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

It's been on my long-list for a long time. The biggest benefit is the ability to reverse-flow the head, which should allow for a lot more timing under high sustained loads.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

What are you willing to pay?

It's ugly as hell right now - when I made it I was trying a few things and wasn't spending the time to make it presentable. Now that it works, I'll rebuild it, tweak it, and make it pretty. When I rebuild it I'll snap a bunch of photos. The ideas are fairly simple, just time-consuming to implement. The same duct work on a customer car would be 400-500 in labor.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

I pressed out the impeller and bearings, and welded a cap to cover the hole left by the shaft and bearings.

There are a few things I need to modify. I need to relocate my water temp gauge to a place that reads the hottest water. Also, I failed miserably with the oil filter cooler, the water is stagnent. And of coarse I need to get cooled water to both sides of the cylinder head. It looks like I am going to have to replumb almost everything.

The mistakes I made on a high powered turbo car probably would have been serious, but cools my N/A nicely. The real test will be when I am shooting nitrous, which creates a lot of heat. If I get it right, I would think it would work good on a turbo track car.

twothirdsCobra

iTrader: (3)

Post title: Turbo - 240+ WHP race fuel - 225 WHP street
___________

Fuel: F&L 101 race and 91 Chevron street
Intercooler: Custom PWR Extruded tube IC, 15x12x3.5
Water/Meth injection: No but I have a high pressure water misting system for Rad/IC/Oil cooler
Coolant: Evans NGP-R zero pressure no H20 system
Radiator: custom BEGi 57mm cross flow twin tube
Fans: 2 Spal (one 11 inch paddle one 11 inch slim) 2/3rd'sCobra Shroud
Coolant bypass: Yes - M-Tuned

Oil: Rotella T6 5-40
Oil cooler: DIY - 18 row Earls w/ 8AN fittings w/ modified FM brackets

Ducting: yes, lower ABS gap panels and custom under tray
Bumper opening modification: No, but TSI's ducted to top half of radiator
Heat extraction: custom louvered hood

Real-world Results on track: 20-25 min, 100+ ambient, h2o temp - 215, oil temp-260 top, recovers to 185/210 within cooldown lap
Notes: Tune is dead reliable, no issues with overheating of oil or coolant. PS fluid boils though, but not for long .

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Post title: I touch your privates.
___________

Fuel: 93, son
Intercooler: BEGi #3, very large
Coolant: ****, distilled water, a couple cups of O'Reilly coolant
Thermostat: 185*
Radiator: "Radiator Barn Race" version from eBay, $120
Fans: One stock fan, on the driver's side

Oil: Rotella T6 5-40
Oil cooler: DIY - 18 row Earls w/ 10AN fittings w/ modified FM brackets, plastic ghetto ducting

My heat exchangers are ducted and the oil cooler scoops air and rocks from below, mounted to the steering rack. These is lots and lots of aluminum tape on my crummy ducting. I also have a garage full of alumalite for the next try.

Real-world Results on track: 20-45 min, 100+ ambient, h2o temp: 190-195f, oil temp-220*f.

Notes: I have the best tune of any Miata in the world, certified by Guiness. When I run a cool-down lap, my temps don't really change, oil drops to 200*f though, lol. I've run the car at Hallett for 45-minutes at 98*fat a time, run the car at TWS at 90*f ambient for the same and the temps never budge.

charredchar

Can I get some more information on this?

nitrodann

I warned you.

Search, coolant reroute.

Dann

charredchar

I have, been reading those too. Summed up, most of them are "This is how you do it. Ive been able to advance timing because of it." I want to know why though.

nitrodann

the stock head flows coolant from the front of the bloclk to the front of the block, the only water that is at the back is almost stagnant, it isnt forced to the back and then returns it just flows from the inlet straight out the outlet.

The rear cylinders are much hotter than the front, causing it to detonate earlier than the others, causing us to tune with 3-4 degrees less timing just to save 1 hot cylinder.

Dann

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

But reverse flowing is something different. Reverse flowing uses an external water pump and a gutted stock pump. The water enters through the head and leaves through the block via the water pump housing. The GM LSx engines are cooled in a head first, reverse flow manner.

nitrodann

CBF to explain that cheers.

Dann

AlwaysBroken

The BP motor was originally a FWD application that had the thermostat at the opposite end of the head from the water pump. When mazda put it in the miata, instead of using a longer hose, they moved the thermostat to the wrong end of the head. As a result, on the RWD BP, the thermostat, coolant temp sensor and water pump are at one end of the head and there is nothing at the other end of the head except the heater core, which flows back to the water pump via a tiny pipe.

When the RWD BP is relatively cool, the thermostat will often be closed (because the front of the engine cools very rapidly) and the heater core flow will dominate flow (with the closed thermostat, it's the biggest source of water for the water pump), keeping the back of the head cool.
When the engine gets hot (because you're driving really hard and have a turbo), the thermostat stays opens and most of the water in the engine will now flow through the thermostat because it's a much bigger hose. Since the heater core is a relatively tiny hose, the hotter the engine gets, the more the thermostat flow will overwhelm the heater core flow. It eventually gets hot enough to break stuff. The whole time this is happening, the thermostat will function normally and the sensor will indicate a normal engine temperature, because all that stuff is at the front of the engine.

BP FWD- all cylinders cooled equally
Water pump ------->--[1][2][3][4]--->-- Thermostat, heater core, temp sensor
water enters engine----------------------water exits engine to radiator

BP RWD- front cylinders cooled more, rear cylinders cooled less
Water pump, thermostat, temp sensor======[1][2][3][4]-----heater core
water enters engine, exits engine to radiator------------------------heater core drains back to water pump manifold

The coolant reroute restores the original correct flow by placing the thermostat and and temp sensor at the back of the head. The whole head gets cooled and the thermostat opens and closes based on the temperature of the entire engine.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

It's like 2011 all over again.

AlwaysBroken

Oh **** sorry. I must have googled up that thread looking for something else.