jmann

I totally agree and that is why I have a chaser hood. That pressure map was for air flow over a stock configured hood, add that air deflector and you create a big low pressure area behind it and a vacuum effect as it is shaped in the photo. It's not ideal but should still have some effect.

njn63

iTrader: (4)

Not to discredit those maps but as far as I'm aware they are only the pressure readings from the top surface of the hood. While they're a good starting point, they don't take into consideration pressure under the hood which will be the other side of the pressure differential equation and could shift where the "ideal" location is.

If I'm wrong about this and they were actual pressure differential readings, ignore my post.

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

Correct. They were only readings on top of the hood.

bbundy

Highly unlikely there is an much of an uneven pressur distribution in the engine compartment. The engine compartment is pretty much is like a pressurized box of uniform pressure. If you want to suck air out of it as fast as possible cut a hole where the pressure is the lowest on the outside of it.

Bob

mx5autoxer

iTrader: (1)

rccote, do you have any other pictures (different angles) of that red car with the 4 small vents cut into the hood?

njn63

iTrader: (4)

We'll see. I just bought a Magnehelic gauge.

9671111

iTrader: (10)

*

wannafbody

iTrader: (1)

If the pressure under the hood is higher than the pressure on top of the hood wouldn't it just force the pressure out of the engine bay regardless of location?

mr_hyde

iTrader: (4)

There is no point under the hood that is at a higher pressure than the base of the windshield. Hood risers are for ricers and folks that idle around parking lots trying to look cool. Once the car starts moving at any reasonable speed the riser becomes and intake which hurts pressure differential across the heat exchangers.

jmann

If by riser you mean the air dam that is in front and around the sides of the opening in that hood, which is towards the middle/front, that does create a low presure area behind it as it deflects the air upward, but it also creates some drag and is why being further forward is better because you can have low air presure with out the drag from the air dam on the hood to careate that low presure behind or if some more air flow is wanted you can do the samething forward too.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

By hood risers he means putting a stack of washers between the hinge and the hood.

Double O 86

So, what's the consensus on this one?

bbundy

I bet it would work quite well.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Bueno.

mx5autoxer

iTrader: (1)

Thanks rccote. That's a beautiful car. I've never seen it before. I love the plates.

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

So let me ask - as I've come to this point of re-designing the war bird. If a 33% facial opening of cooling surface area is ideal - what's a good rule of thumb for hood vent opening area? I'm planning a v-mount setup while ducting most the air from the IC through the hood vent - radiator too if I can work it out. Take in concideration the car will be flat-paneled too.
Also designing the rear portion of the front wheel well fenders to move as much air as possible too... but the wheels are already a high pressure area and not sure what/if any engine compartment air will make it's way through there. I'm going to try and seal it up the well as much as possible, leaving openings for the suspension components.

I guess I just want to be sure the hood vent is not too small - nor too big, yet get enough airflow across the radiator and oil cooler while not 'plugging' the system up with flat panelling the car.

FYI - rocking the GT widebody from Autokonexion.

<--- no more bandaids pretty ****

NiklasFalk

iTrader: (1)

Could you not create some ducts for the air (Engine bay-> Rear of fender), bypassing the wheel well chaos?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

How well does that all match up and function aero wise on the front end. Their aero fenders in kevlar are looking really good at the moment since they weigh about 3 pounds, thats lighter than I could ever make a set, and the price is reasonable.

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

I'd have to mod the tunnel to do that (and not allowed in ST2 for cooling) - there's so much structural support aft the wheels and it's already tight as **** with 225s/245s. I could possibly add ducting through the flat panel to the sides of the car, after the front wheel - like the V8 supercar skirts (which I like). But seems more work than what it's worth.

Seems to match up evenly - covering the front wheels well - however, mine is not yet mounted. The rear quarters will need some work though, as they don't diver air flow before the front edge of the wheel. I plan on reducing the bumper opening some, use the fog holes for brake ducting. Aero-wide - we'll see, but 'seems' to be the best aero front end out there so far as a kit goes... Andrew/TSE thought the same as well.

Still haven't replaced the hood yet - which is why I'm looking at reaplcement, or modification of an OEM.

mx5autoxer

iTrader: (1)

So when choosing a vent shape is it ok to have a cut piece that angles down like what is on Charlie's red car

or is it worth it to have a molded louver that sticks out of the main lines of the car like this?