Emilio when you say you detune it, are we talking about a literal software change only to achieve this?

Dann

 

Doh, yes RR's.I was surprised to see how much snooping took place during that week. Other teams cruising through our pit abd trailer trying to figure out what tires we were running..

 

Federal RSR's FTW.. Sad to see this car go...

 

Add a lot of fuel and the power will come down. It's not pretty and there are better ways to do it, but <11:1 AFRs will knock the power down to wherever you need it to be.

 

At what point will all that extra fuel wash away the oil film? Not that big of a deal for a sprint car maybe, but I'd think it's less than ideal for an endurance car.

 

It's not ideal, but it gets the job done. Trying to dump 30+whp out of a BP without mechanical restriction is hard to do. After you drop the timing to ~18* and actively tune the VVT to be as far from ideal as possible, adding fuel is all you can really do. Regular oil changes are encouraged.

 

Can you cut fuel to cylinders on a rotating basis? My understanding is that that's what the RaceLogic traction control system does to reduce power. I don't know of any ECUs with that feature built in, but the code for MS2 is available, right?

--Ian

 

That's not a bad option, although I don't know of anyone doing it.

 

Defending champs get attention. Snoop as they tried but they couldn't steal our flatout!

 

What about having the VICS in the lower RPM position all the way through the power band? I bet that would help flatten the HP curve.

 

Yeah that too, still it;s just a software change, which I THINK he is insinuating.


Dann

 

I was thinking there was a squaretop on most of his builds?

 

The USDM NB1 manifold seems to make the best low rpm n/a torque of any of the OEM manifolds. VICS crossover is usually set between 2000-2800 with dyno tuning. Which manifold we use depends on what the project goals are. Our 2013 PTE cars all used a USDM NB1 manifold for the extra low end torque. Since we're capping high rpm power anyway, it's better to choose a manifold that makes teh least peak power to start with. This allows more timing for better BFSC which matters for enduro.

 

Did you ceramic coated block, intake mani, valve cover and use phenolic spacer as well in your enduro build ?

 

Nope.

 

Couldn't do it all the way through, as that would harm torque. You could open the butterflies down low as E said, then flip the butterflies back closed once you get close to the power cap, though you'd probably knock 2-3whp off the peak by doing that. On a fully-built PTE motor, you need to pull ~35whp at redline. Small drop in a big bucket.

 

on stock cams..

 

I wonder how a restrictor plate would tone down whp?

 

Bump of an old thread:

What did you use for windows in this beast if the weather wasn't cooperating? I noticed you cut out the front triangle from the door (which is what I want to do with my build too)

Tx

 

IIRC he used these:



becauseracecar

But in all honesty, I don't think there was any provision for windows. I seem to remember Crusher in the rain at MRLS with no windows. They made me run hardtop with windows down through the torrent that weekend with stock interior and my car has never quite smelled the same since.