k24madness

iTrader: (6)

Skip the heavy Mini one piece. The 949 11" Wilwoods have been treating me right. I am beyond impressed when using them with XR2 Cobalts.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

^Hahaha!

Joe, Is this a financial issue or something else?

And to answer the "is heat related to taper also?" question, I would think that excessive heat, which reduces the torque of pads, would require more pedal effort than when cooler and would be more likely to see taper.

The bottom line is well known. The stock calipers are undersized for anything other than normal street driving and the Spec Miata guys regularly taper the hell out of their pads with a lot less than turbo power. Going to a Corrado/Mini rotor, ducting, and/or high torque pads will mediate/delay the issue but as you get faster it will never actually solve the problem completely. The real solution, as you know, is better calipers and bigger rotors.

That being said, I have Relte's old Corrado bracket kit and cheap new set of rotors on my car for now. It was an incremental improvement, but I know it won't be the long term answer. I want the TSE kit but am not ready to drop the coin on it yet. And, frankly, I'm not fast enough to justify it.

Scrappy Jack

iTrader: (2)

How much heavier do you think the one piece Mini rotors are vs the two-piece Wilwoods?

Do you have the SuperMiata rotors or the OE Wilwoods?

Pos props.

It's a self-imposed budgetary constraint. I'll review my spreadsheet* again and compare the cost differential of the 11" and 11.75" setup.

I can feel the snowball effect gaining inertia. "Well, if you go with the bigger front setup, you need to upgrade to Sport rears and a prop valve."




* Yeah, I have a tab on my car workbook dedicated to brake upgrades. Big whoop, wanna fight about it?

k24madness

iTrader: (6)

I am not sure of weights. I am sure you can dig that up. I don't know the Minis are heavier than OEM while the wilwoods are lighter. The big bonus IMHO is getting brake heat away from the hubs with the 2 piece design. With the one piece all of that rotor heat gets transfered to the hubs.

I have the SuperMiata rotors. With the right brake pads rotor life will be good. If you go DTC60's the trackspeed kit makes the most sense cause they tend to be hard on rotors. With expensive rotors like the 949's (not really expensive but relative to the 11.75") use Cobalts or Carbotechs.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Rotor life with the DTC-60s should not be any different from any other modern pad - you won't wear the rotor down to minimum thickness on a track car before you start to see thermal cracking. You should expect to change the rotors every 2-3 sets of pads, and if you drive the car a lot that adds up quick. The ultra-bitchin pedal feel (over the 11" kits) is just the icing on the cake.

Scrappy Jack

iTrader: (2)

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Can a brother get his props back now, please

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I'll offer the same deal Jack just got to everyone. TSE BBK, DTC-60 pads, TSE prop valve kit, M-Tuned BRK, and Centric Sport rear rotors for $1275. Add ducting for $175 and rear lines for $60.

https://www.miataturbo.net/trackspee...3/#post1007085

z31maniac

What about those of us that wouldn't want pads, prop kit, rear rotors?

(Anyone need a fresh rebuilt and powdercoated set of front sport calipers, centric rotors and Carbotech XP10s with only 3 days on them? Essentially new.)

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Can't discount the individual items, only the entire package. If you bought the other stuff from us previously, we can talk.

z31maniac

Damn, no. Bought all my pads/rotors from Emilio.

Thanks for answering anyway though.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Big boy pants for everyone !!

psreynol

I want to say you dont need a huge brake kit, just the right pad choice however if those rotors are solid, I'm really not not sure they could stand up to big track, but autox should be fine.

what is the max caliper temp you see? you should know this to pick the right pad for auto x. pad taper is about heat and uneven forces being applied to a pad, often caused by deposits on the caliper making it difficult for the pad to move freely causing one side bind and wear unevenly.

you dont need brake vents on a auto cross car if you use a race pad. the vents can hurt you because the pads wont get up to temp.

get the alcon temp strip stickers to see what your caliper temps . it is not a perfect answer because the caliper temp has nothing to do with the friction surface temp but it is good info when you call the pad manufacture.

k24madness

iTrader: (6)

Damn that's a deal!

psreynol

any one run CARBONE LORRAINE pads? I heard they are the same as cobalt friction ( licensed the compounds) but not sure at all

several track buddys said CL is the new hotness, this was last year. not cheap as I recall

Scrappy Jack

iTrader: (2)

Done, begrudgingly.

Now I don't feel special. By the way, I expect a 1% commission from anyone taking advantage of this deal which originated with my negotiation prowess. That is, the buyer needs to paypal me $12.75.

Also, henceforth, this package will be known as the TSE BBPK (Trackspeed Engineering Big Boy Pants Kit).

This is not an autocross car.

The question about caliper temps is relevant, though. More data is better than less data.

FlyinMSM

iTrader: (1)

carbotechs mo

psreynol

so now we/ I know the dtc-60 up front is awesome and cheap for track use. you guys were right.

should I run that pad in the rear as well? if I do, will this negativity affect moderate to aggressive trail braking? I pick up most of my time on the brakes and track out so getting too much rear pad would be bad.

to and from the track on this pad also seems to be fine, despite my skepticism and paranoia about rotor wear...

JSpeed6

iTrader: (3)

I went from pc97's in the front to DTC60s and kicked myself for not doing it sooner. what a pad!

I still have pfc97s in the rear at the moment, but picked up some HT10s to try out.