We run one on teh FSAE car, works great and we had no cooling issues this year. Made it with alum. we had sitting around.

 

I love the squid intake

 

Boiling create water vapor, which condensate to liquid water when it reaches a colder area. It does not "create" air in the system.

A purge valve at the top of a swirl pot can IMHO be used the same way as a air bleed valve on any water boiler, water radiator, etc. You bleed off the collected air while the system is under pressure and close it when it bleeds only scolding water.

If this have been obvious all the time, feel free to flame me

 

Well if you want to go with the water boiler method, you need a big area where the flow of the water slows down enough so gravity can do its job.

This is not the right way to do it for a car though. This is a closed system where if you fill up the highest point with coolant you'd be displacing any air.

 

I had similar questions and sent a email to MotoIQ and here is what I got:
Ask Sarah: MSD ignition, DashCommand software, swirl pot/surge tank

A swirl pot could also be plumbed into the surge tank to allow for more air to be removed from the system. I was planning on adding a surge tank first, then adding a swirl pot if I still wasn't happy with the water temps. From though many of the build articles on MotoIQ, most teams seem to use a surge tank only

I have also used this thread from Matt Andrews on his surge tank to locate a few good locations for tapping into the system for a surge tank:
how to cure a turbo's miata's overheating issues. version 19... - ClubRoadster.net

From everything I read a few months ago, you'll want to tap into the system multiple places to make sure the surge tank is removing the most amount of air. Matt seems to be taping into the system at radiator and the back of the head (BEGi spacer?). If you added a swirl pot, you could have a 3 point to remove air.

 

$300 and lots of rubber hose I don't want.

 

I still don't get this. In order to connect your hard line to your spacer in the back and the radiator in the front, you'll have to use two rubber hose couplers, that in your words, will burst. Yet you've now introduced 2 extra failure points and a long aluminum pipe ready to crack.

 

That guy Hustler should come in here and rip this guy a new one for unsound thinking...

Anyway, I used the m tuned kit and used a hard line up the side of the IM but I meant, you can just buy the rear adaptor alone....(I am sure you know this already...)

Wouldn't using a tried and true part that is KNOWN to not have air or bleed issues save you all this trouble...not to mention many (hundreds?) using the m tuned kit or version thereof and having no problems with burst hoses OR air...

ALSO, if the rubber hose was a problem, would MAZDA have made the NB lower hose completely out of rubber replacing the multi rubber / metal abomination that the NA's have?

 

The BEGi spacer is "known to work", and hundreds cheaper.

$300 for the spacer is too much money for me, I am poor.

My reliability standards are higher than Mazda's. I've replaced that rubber hose on two cars, I have not replaced any metal "hose-substitutes". It's easier to stock and prepare for stright, rubber coupler replacement than funky-shaped hoses. It's worth the time and money to build this car to the level I want because I expect to drive it home from the track.

 

Ever checked out a TVR S2? Just saw the Wheeler Dealer episode when they rebuild one. Apparently they come with a swirl pot. Thought you might wanna know.

 

Ok that makes sense to me.

 

There are a few options for trapped air.

- A swirl pot in-line with the rad water flow (top rad hose photo in earlier post above) or,

- a surge tank located at the highest point. Lots of suppliers make these - example:
Canton Racing Products 80-200 Canton Racing Coolant Expansion Fill Tanks

- Hose at tank rad cap tee'd into the normal water overflow tank on the right fender,
- Small hose fitting near top of tank goes to the high point in your cooling system (where the air is trapped)
- Large hose fitting at bottom is Tee'd into suction side of the water pump (lower rad hose / mixing manifold)

In both cases the tank is pressurized (and has a rad cap).

For those with road car, a late 60's Corvette also had a similar system where the heater hose passed through the tank... try:
68-72 Corvette TANK - expansion, #301630, all w/327/350 except 70-72 LT1 & 68-69 427's, correctly dated, (specify date, 1-2 weeks delivery) · Chicago Corvette

Good luck

 

No overheating problems here.

 

i like that pressure reservoir.

 

PRC built it. It was around 85 IIRC.