As long as we're sharing pictures of heads.

This is a head that my friend who's been the parts manager of a local Chevy dealership for 20 years got for me when my original MSM head was trashed.

I'll get pictures of the box/label, but this was new in box from early last year. Must have been one of the last few new OEM 99-00 heads.









Figured Emillio, JoeP or Andrew might be interested in saving some of these.

Does it look like it has the newer water port revisions or the original 99-00 style?

 

BP4W-10-100C part number from the box pulls up a lot of 04-05 w/Turbo hits.

 

Comparing the pic from Shlammed and the new replacement head, it appears that on an MSM with 2004 gasket, it would port like an NB2, and the same replacement head with a '99 gasket woudl port like an NB1.



vs

 

To reiterate Andrew's point, I modified these pictures to help explain it in a way I can visualize better. And the emphasis in these pictures being on the blue circles.





Basically you're looking at only 6 water ports being used if you use the later model BP6D head gasket with the true 99-00 head.

Compared to 11 water ports being used when you use the later model BP6D head gasket with either a MSM/VVT/or late model(99-00,MSM) replacement head.

The reason I have such an interest in this is because I am indeed running the bad combination. I wasn't completely aware of this issue early last year when I built my motor. My late model replacement head was getting worked on so I bought a 99-00 head to hold me over for a while. Not being fully aware of the water port configuration, I just slapped on a BP6D gasket on there.

I haven't had any overheating issues per se, but I can clearly see why this is such a bad setup. Cylinders 1/2 aren't getting any water! The new head is ready to go on so I'll be fixing the situation soon, running later model head with BP6D gasket.

Sorry for the rants in Emilio's thread. Just figured this could help someone in the future.

 

Good info and on-point.

 

I have an early model head and I'm taking the motor to be fully rebuilt. I currently use the reroute but after reading the last post, it seems the head I have should be ditched for the rebuild?

 

I don't think anyone is saying that at all. The early-style head gasket is still widely available, and likely will continue to be for decades. This combination (94-00 head, plus 94-00 gasket, plus rear thermostat reroute) works just fine, and will give you perfectly adequate cooling performance.

 

(Both had the reroute)



In all the above pics the exhaust is on the right side. I mirrored the head images to match the hole locations with a block when you look down at it. The HG images are of the *top* side to match the mirrored head images.

 

Did you not mean that the HG images are of the TOP side to match the mirrored mirrored head images?

 

Ah yes, I corrected my post.

 

@JasonC SBB - which holes did you add to the gasket?

 

red arrows

 

Sorry, missed that.

 

What about using cometic head gasket? Same applies?

 

The Cometic #H3115SP40 series has the exact same port configuration as the 94-00 BP26-10-271

 

I appreciate all of the information you have given us. I have taking your advice and direction.

 

All your cooling are belong to Emilio

 

Hi. I'm a forum noob, and recently started working on my mom's 92 1.6l. After a day of having it in my possession and driving it in different manners, I've determined that the head gasket is indeed blown and the head may or may not be warped or cracked. I'll do a leakdown test in the future just to be sure though.

One thing I've noticed that people tend to neglect from the overheating posts is how to effectively clean the fins on a radiator of any kind. The best method is to use air conditioner condenser coil cleaner available at any big home improvement store. Make sure to follow the mixing (dilution) directions, and whatever you do, DO NOT get it on your paint. It's a very strong base and will eat away at paint if left on it. The foaming coil cleaner is the best stuff and the most available. Mix it, spray it on with a pump up sprayer (like the ones you spray weeds or pesticides with), let it foam for about 10-15 minutes, then -MOST IMPORTANT- rinse the crap out of it. I mean, when you think it's all washed off, rinse another 15 minutes with high pressure from inside the engine bay if possible. You won't believe the crap that comes out of those fins. This also works on the car's a/c if it doesn't cool very well anymore. I can't stress the rinsing enough though, if the cleaner is left on the aluminum, it deteriorates it over time.

Before I get flamed, I will say that I am an HVAC technician and most a/c coils this stuff is used on are aluminum, so there is no compatibility issue with coil material. Happy cooling!

 

Welcome Joe! Go make an intro thread and tell us all about your car and stuff -> Meet and Greet - Miata Turbo Forum

But I agree, air conditioner condenser coil cleaner is magical stuff. Its also terrible for most surfaces if you want them to stay looking pretty. I've used this stuff in the past with great results: but only with the radiator or condenser OUT of the car. Just make sure to follow the dilution instructions.

 

I gave you your first prop Joe!