GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

That shim will save me lots of time vs any machining. Actually bought a 20ton hf press today to press in lugs

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

I highly suggest you weld gussets in the top corner, unless they've fixed that, which is unlikely.

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

And replace all the hardware with good hardware

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

The punch/press is welded crooked as ****.

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

Well **** - Lars pointed out that the rear rotor won't fit over the OD of the hub face... checked my sports, sure enough. I Didn't even think to check the rotor fitting over the hub. Just a little off the edge should do.
4.916 hub OD
4.895 inner rotor hat
about 0.1mm shave should suffice, but remember to allow for heat expansion.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

You and I both. This was spurred by the pair i did for marcus that he discovered wont fit when he tried to assemble it today. Lol we're dipshits.

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

I think he needs to put the rear end on jacks (which I'm sure it is already) , start the car, put in gear and take a file to those hubs! That'd be funny as hell... and it'd work! Until his arm gets wrapped up in the axle...

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Its like you were part of the convo we had an hour ago....

flier129

iTrader: (7)

I'll likely be doing this, but I don't have the time currently. Car goes to cage tomorrow, so I've zipped tied the rear calipers and turned my prop valve to close off the rear for now.


Thought it was guna work!


Ummmmm, what did I **** up?!


Queue the sad-trombone.




Took some quick measurements with a HF caliper.
MR-S hub OD: 125mm
Miata hub OD: 122mm
1.8 rear brake rotor ID: 124.5mm


I'd like to take ~1mm off so it's not a super tight fit for the rotor onto the hub. The rotor "hat" has to expand some while hot, correct? I figure if the tolerance was too tight it could potentially crack? Maybe I'm being overly paranoid.


This is just part of pioneering, I suppose. Thankfully this is fixable and Sean can add it to his process.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

This looks like a great reason for a big brake kit instead of Machining anything

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

A prop valve never completely closes the rear circuit, just reduces pressure (by 57% at most for the common wilwood style afaik).

acedeuce802

iTrader: (1)

^This, the prop valve doesn't cut anything off, it only increase line volume to reduce pressure. C'mon Marcus, we just talked about this!

jpreston

iTrader: (4)

Damn those things look beefy once they're mounted on the miata knuckle.

flier129

iTrader: (7)

Not worth the points and I don't need anymore brake on the car atm. I suppose a nice Stoptech kit would make it easier to modulate, but $$$$


I knew it wasn't 100% closed, but I didn't know it was only 57% at max. A few turns from it makes a YUGE difference on track though!

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Pressure adjustments range from 100-1000 PSI and provide for a maximum decrease of 57% in line pressure, the most of any available valve

Wilwood Disc Brakes - Porportioning Valves & Pressure Valves

just for reference

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

1mm material off edge is min amount to fit... yoy can prolly take off 2mm and be totally fine.
my hubs going on this afternoon

afm

iTrader: (3)

It also makes zero difference at low line pressures (low enough to squeeze the pads together).

GeneSplicer

iTrader: (14)

Done. Centered up perfectly... These are on Keisler drop spindles.

flier129

iTrader: (7)

Did you have your machine-shop guy do this?

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)