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Old 11-20-2011, 01:08 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by hingstonwm View Post
"I am hopping to get on the track next week but we will see how it goes."
Great looking car, where do you plan on running it? (HPR & Pueblo are closed)

Graeme
Golden, CO
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Old 11-20-2011, 02:16 PM   #22
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i've been thinking about doing something similar only not to any rules. 250whp turbocharged 9-10" wide wheels, the stickiest tires i can afford, full aero, light as possible.

ditto ditto ditto ditto ditto .... 'cept for the tires - keeping the RA1s till i use them all up!
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Old 11-20-2011, 03:45 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by rlogan View Post
I know, I have been looking at these fenders...a bit pricey though. Lets start our own super miata class.
For some reason I love that kit! And yes, we need our own series
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Old 11-21-2011, 06:14 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by GraemeD View Post
Great looking car, where do you plan on running it? (HPR & Pueblo are closed)

Graeme
Golden, CO
Thank you, will be going to PPIR, hopefully this Wednesday.
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:47 AM   #25
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Love the car, congratulations. For the unitiated foriegner could someone briefly highlight what FP is and it's intention etc...do other cars run in it or is it one make (MX5..) etc...
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Old 11-24-2011, 05:13 AM   #26
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FP...f production is a class in the SCCA, sports car club of america. The class in open to many different cars, among them is the 1.6 miata, triumph spitfire, bug eye sprite. acura integra to name a few. If you notice some of these cars are old classics and some are newer vintage. Competition is balance by allowing different prep levels for the different cars, basically the more potential a car has the less it can be developed. This is a good recipe for the miata, as it is a limited prep car, basically the engine work is limited so the engine is less high strung and should run longer between rebuilds(good for the budget). When compared to say the spitfire which can do most anything to the engine but will require more maintenance, thus increasing the cost of being competitive.
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Old 11-24-2011, 02:38 PM   #27
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Thanks for the explanation hingston, sounds like a very interesting class!
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Old 11-24-2011, 03:08 PM   #28
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More pictures of the pedals and master cylinder setup please.

Curious what the setup is. Trying to work out a new system for my new track creation.

Bob
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Old 11-24-2011, 04:02 PM   #29
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^^^ Will do, my set up is a tilton, twin master brake and clutch. It is set up to adjust brake bias on the fly. With the miata I don't anticipate needing to adjust brake bias after I find the sweet spot, set it and forget it. It's just easier to set with the bias control in in the cockpit.
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:22 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by hingstonwm View Post
^^^ Will do, my set up is a tilton, twin master brake and clutch. It is set up to adjust brake bias on the fly. With the miata I don't anticipate needing to adjust brake bias after I find the sweet spot, set it and forget it. It's just easier to set with the bias control in in the cockpit.
Looks like standard 1.8l calipers and rotors. do you know what size master cylinders it uses and can you comment on the pedal feel and modulation without the booster?

Bob
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:02 PM   #31
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They are actually 1.6 calipers and rotors.

It has been over 10 years since I last drove a non assisted brake setup. Modulation is good, but it definitely takes more pedal pressure. I drove 3-10 lap sessions on Sunday and my braking was improving with each lap, but it is going to take some getting used to, for it to become second nature like it was in my SM. Left the car in my buddies shop about 60 miles from my house, he is building an F car and wants to look my car over. May try to get down there tomorrow to get a few shots for you.

Impressions of my first track day:

It's not as hard as I thought it would be to get the car rolling, that being said, this car will have to be pushed through the paddock. The Quafie dog box is amazing, I did find the best upshifts shifts were achieved by using the clutch between 1st and 2nd, all other upshifts were just lift and shift; no clutch. Down shifts are violent without the clutch so I used heel toe. The hardest gear to find on down shifts is 2nd to 1st, but with more stick time that shift should become butter smooth.

The suspension is amazing and very precise, but it was a bit pushy. I think I can lower the entire car a bit then dial in some rake to help get the car to rotate better. I will also look at sway bar adjustments. Of course, before I do any suspension tuning, I need to get the car on the scales and get it corner weighted. Driving a low/no windshield open cockpit car is a visceral experience. I am as low as I care to be in the car, vision over the windshield is perfect. However, the wind noise from being in the slip stream is going to take some getting used to. Also, there is some wind buffeting from the bottom of the helmet, the wind noise is going to take some getting use to. I drove without ear plugs so I could hear everything that was happening, I think they would have helped cancel out some of the wind noise. Fortunately, I need a new helmet for next year as mine is out of date. I was thinking of trying something like this, I think the extended chin will help with the wind noise, hopefully getting the bottom of the helmet below the slipstream.

Attached Thumbnails
New FP miata-bll-2022077.jpg   New FP miata-fpmadienvoyageatppir.jpg  
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:30 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hingstonwm View Post
They are actually 1.6 calipers and rotors.

It has been over 10 years since I last drove a non assisted brake setup. Modulation is good, but it definitely takes more pedal pressure. I drove 3-10 lap sessions on Sunday and my braking was improving with each lap, but it is going to take some getting used to, for it to become second nature like it was in my SM. Left the car in my buddies shop about 60 miles from my house, he is building an F car and wants to look my car over. May try to get down there tomorrow to get a few shots for you.

Impressions of my first track day:

It's not as hard as I thought it would be to get the car rolling, that being said, this car will have to be pushed through the paddock. The Quafie dog box is amazing, I did find the best upshifts shifts were achieved by using the clutch between 1st and 2nd, all other upshifts were just lift and shift; no clutch. Down shifts are violent without the clutch so I used heel toe. The hardest gear to find on down shifts is 2nd to 1st, but with more stick time that shift should become butter smooth.

The suspension is amazing and very precise, but it was a bit pushy. I think I can lower the entire car a bit then dial in some rake to help get the car to rotate better. I will also look at sway bar adjustments. Of course, before I do any suspension tuning, I need to get the car on the scales and get it corner weighted. Driving a low/no windshield open cockpit car is a visceral experience. I am as low as I care to be in the car, vision over the windshield is perfect. However, the wind noise from being in the slip stream is going to take some getting used to. Also, there is some wind buffeting from the bottom of the helmet, the wind noise is going to take some getting use to. I drove without ear plugs so I could hear everything that was happening, I think they would have helped cancel out some of the wind noise. Fortunately, I need a new helmet for next year as mine is out of date. I was thinking of trying something like this, I think the extended chin will help with the wind noise, hopefully getting the bottom of the helmet below the slipstream.
Yea Im trying to figure out if I can make the correct choice on my brake calipers and master cylinder sizing out of the box. I can run numbers but the numbers don't translate real well into subjective feel to me. Seems like without a boster you would want to upsize the caliper pistons from stock some amount.

I plan on running wilwood calipers on all 4 corners. Likely DynaPro Radial in the front maybe DynaPro singls in the rear depending on what I decide on for piston sizes.

Bob

Last edited by bbundy; 11-30-2011 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:18 PM   #33
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I will give my myself some time to get use to the current setup before I make any changes. If I do make a change it will be to go a little smaller on the master, this will increase pedal throw and reduce pressure, but I need more seat time before I make any decesions.
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:08 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by hingstonwm View Post
I will give my myself some time to get use to the current setup before I make any changes. If I do make a change it will be to go a little smaller on the master, this will increase pedal throw and reduce pressure, but I need more seat time before I make any decesions.
Do you know what size masters you currently have?

Bob
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Old 11-30-2011, 07:52 PM   #35
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I'll look tomorrow for you and post back
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:43 PM   #36
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What a great car. Hit us with some more photos soon.
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:01 PM   #37
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:17 PM   #38
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That helmet will help tremendously. I used to feel like a bobble head over ~130mph until I got an aero helmet. Mine also had ridges on top to break up the smooth air flow and reduce lift of the helmet. I think you can buy those to add to any helmet now.
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Old 12-28-2011, 04:11 AM   #39
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Bundy, I forgot about the Tilton pedal assembly, I will try to get a few pics posted in the next couple of days.

As I have had a chance to familiarize myself with the car I have found a few items that I want to change. First up is the rear shock mount. The upper mount is a nice piece and is well designed; it mounts in the stock location. The problem is that it has the shock compressed and limits the ability to adjust rear ride height, it also does not leave any room for a bump stop in case the car is bottomed out. The new design has increased the amount of stroke available in compression. I am pretty happy with how the plates turned out, but they are now a permanent part of the car as I had to weld them in. I am pretty happy with the welds, but there were a few areas that were a bitch to clean/prep and as a result those areas are a little rough but are still plenty strong. Here are a few pics.

The first time I drove the car it was pushy, I drove for a couple of 10 minute sessions and did not adjust on it at all as I was just trying to get a feel for the car. Today was the first time I have driven the car since I installed the new rear shock mounts. I have not corner weighted the car, and am driving on tires that are an unknown quantity. I just threw an eyeball/ tape measure ride height on the car after completing the mounts. I intentionally put a large amount of rake in the car hoping to induce oversteer. Mission accomplished, now the car is tail happy, which pleases me because I know that the car is adjustable from tight to loose. I will work on dialing in the suspension after I have a chance to corner weight the car.

While at the track today I scaled the car. Rules require me to be 2175, I was 2071 with 2 gallons of gas in the fuel cell. My goal is to come across the scales 10 pounds heavy so I am shooting for a final weight of 2185 so I need to add 114 pounds of ballast. I have plenty of lead available, just not in the shape that will fit where I want to put it. Rules require the weight to be contained within the body work of the car. This means that I have the passenger floor and trunk available. Well I am certainly not going to mount ballast in trunk; to high and to far behind the axle. I have some space between the fuel cell cover and rocker. I plan to fab up a form and melt down my current lead so that I can fit it into the space. Anyone have any experience in making their own lead ballast? Here is a pic of where the ballast will be going. Any thoughts, comments are welcomed and appreciated
Attached Thumbnails
New FP miata-imag0194.jpg   New FP miata-imag0195.jpg   New FP miata-p1010005-5.jpg   New FP miata-p1010007-3.jpg   New FP miata-balastlocation.jpg  

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Old 11-17-2012, 01:18 PM   #40
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First season of competition is over in the new car, what a blast, I had a ball getting to know this car. This is car is the first dog box transmission I have ever driven, and I am now spoiled by it, if I can help it I will never go back to a syncro box on the track.

The transmission had been abused prior to me owning the car, and was a bit finicky but worked pretty well and never once popped out of gear. Though it did require positive yank on the gear shift for the 1st/2nd shift.

I finally picked up the new gear stack for the main shaft. I also modified the case and put a drain plug in it, no more pulling the transmission to change gear oil. I am posting up a bunch of pics that show the difference between the used dogs and new ones, and the completed gear stack 1st/4th outside of the case. The last shot is looking into the end of the layshaft, showing the missing needle bearing, this but a quick stop to my build plans yesterday, I didn't count the bearings when I pulled the transmission apart, I wonder if it was missing all along. Anyway, I called Taylor racing and have a new set of bearings coming. Here are the pics.








Here is the new drain plug


If I decide that I need a more flush fit I will put in a plug that has a allen drive and run it in flush.
Attached Thumbnails
New FP miata-utf-8bsu1brza5ntcuanbn.jpg   New FP miata-utf-8bsu1brza5nziuanbn.jpg   New FP miata-utf-8bsu1brza5nzeuanbn.jpg   New FP miata-utf-8bsu1brza5nzauanbn.jpg   New FP miata-utf-8bsu1brza5njkuanbn.jpg  

New FP miata-utf-8bsu1brza5njauanbn.jpg   New FP miata-utf-8bsu1brza5nzguanbn.jpg   New FP miata-utf-8bsu1brza5nzcuanbn.jpg   New FP miata-utf-8bsu1brza5nzquanbn.jpg   New FP miata-utf-8bsu1brza5nzyuanbn.jpg  

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