Thanks for the response. The Fab9 kit comes with the Mocal sandwich plate (180 deg), -10AN hose and fittings, and the 25 row Setrab cooler. Seems like a good kit and I believe it sells for less than I can buy the parts for separately. Looks more track focused than the other Miata coolers I've seen.
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Buy it from a reputable Setrab dealer, buy the sandwich plate, and have some hoses made by a local hydraulic shop. Fab9 doesn't stock anything and just orders and drop ships when you order. And they have crappy customer service.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1579115)
Buy it from a reputable Setrab dealer, buy the sandwich plate, and have some hoses made by a local hydraulic shop. Fab9 doesn't stock anything and just orders and drop ships when you order. And they have crappy customer service after you give them money.
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Just looked at the Fab9 kit. Appears to be 100% OTS parts.
IOW, you can replicate it on your own. |
Thanks for the info on Fab9. I'll likely end up building my own. I've got a few spare oil coolers in the garage I may try to adapt, although they might be too big. Pretty surprising that there aren't more options for quality kits considering how many Miatas see track time.
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Tend to agree with Josh. Bespoke is the best plan for oil coolers. Too many variables in routing for an OTS kit to be optimum for everyone.
-Only use -10AN. -8 too small -Must have a tstat -Pay attention not just to air intake but also exiting the core -Try to route hoses so they have only one gradual change in elevation between core and adapter. No roller coaster. - If you feed core from bottom, you can drain core and lines during oil changes. Not absolutely necessary, but it helps replace all old oil. - Setrab >* |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1579289)
-Pay attention not just to air intake but also exiting the core
I plan to have a dedicated air path to the oil core but only ~1" gap to the coolant radiator. Maybe you mean more about exit air management rather than temperature considerations? I'm in the midst of mounting now and my constraints are more based on my lack of fabrication skills. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...23de30fe15.png |
Originally Posted by b3d3g1
(Post 1579290)
Can you elaborate on the "exiting the core" considerations that you are aware of?
I plan to have a dedicated air path to the oil core but only ~1" gap to the coolant radiator. Maybe you mean more about exit air management rather than temperature considerations? I'm in the midst of mounting now and my constraints are more based on my lack of fabrication skills. O/C airmass might be 240-280° and radiator wants to see <150° air to do its job. Exacerbated by your downflow rad where the hottest coolant is fed in from the top. It will all work better than no O/C but it can be improved. I think William has his mounted horizontally behind the rad. Bullet was under headlight with ducting. Vegas is horizontal below radiator with some ducting. In each case, O/C exit is not feeding radiator. my .02 |
If you've got no headlights because racecar, put the cooler where the old headlight bucket used to be and duct the turn signal opening into it and let it exhaust into the engine bay. Having hood vents will help this a lot.
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Originally Posted by Arca_ex
(Post 1579297)
If you've got no headlights because racecar, put the cooler where the old headlight bucket used to be and duct the turn signal opening into it and let it exhaust into the engine bay. Having hood vents will help this a lot.
https://images2.imgbox.com/0a/b3/WXxVshTf_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/b2/6a/Ji2WTqZs_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/6c/e8/KtEUaRnP_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/61/6e/RrVW5Q17_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/2d/76/DENBKwbN_o.jpg |
I think I might have to go back to the drawing board with my mounting. This was my old setup and sounds like it was probably more effective. Need the figure out how to repackage the with a different core but I'm digging that upward facing concept.
Fun fact: this core started as a FM steering rack mounted core. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...db4f5da3f0.png |
Originally Posted by b3d3g1
(Post 1579313)
I think I might have to go back to the drawing board with my mounting. This was my old setup and sounds like it was probably more effective. Need the figure out how to repackage the with a different core but I'm digging that upward facing concept.
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Are -10 lines any benefit if the oe heat exchanger is retained? I’m not sure a thermostat plate is really required for turbo applications with a limited oil sump volume. Mine seems to heat the oil up fairly fast. FWIW I personally prefer to mount all oil related components low to prevent air accumulation.
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-10 are definitely beneficial, you can see substantial pressure drop across -8, especially if you are running the core in front of the radiator.
I am surprized people haven't gravitated more towards the series 1. The flow characteristics are much better, as are the port locations IMO. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1579289)
- If you feed core from bottom, you can drain core and lines during oil changes. Not absolutely necessary, but it helps replace all old oil.
On a side note, it seems like an opportunity for setrab or someone to install a drain plug at the bottom of one of the end tanks and temp sensor bosses in both end tanks to get temp delta info, I'm surprised that doesn't exist on the market. |
Here's my current setup, similar to the one found on the BMW M5 (F10). However, on the Beemer the air exits through the undertray, while on the Miatini the air exits above my Dibond undertray (not pictured) into the engine bay, just like the water radiator. Works so far and runs a lot cooler than my previous setup (behind the water radiator with a sealed 15 mm gap)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7d2bb2a3b7.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...762e4945b6.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1597c3ab62.jpg |
Originally Posted by Eunos91
(Post 1579519)
Here's my current setup, similar to the one found on the BMW M5 (F10). However, on the Beemer the air exits through the undertray, while on the Miatini the air exits above my Dibond undertray (not pictured) into the engine bay, just like the water radiator. Works so far and runs a lot cooler than my previous setup (behind the water radiator with a sealed 15 mm gap)
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1597c3ab62.jpg I may be completely wrong, but that seems like a horrible mounting location. Any sort of off track trip or hitting some rough curbing looks like the oil cooler is being hit first. Then no oil pressure for motor. I know a compplaint I have heard over the years is the FM mounting location and it being hit with rocks and such. This just looks so much worse to me. |
Except that it is completely shielded from below with a 4 mm Dibond plate and sits higher than the subframe etc
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Originally Posted by Cory M
(Post 1579086)
Oil temp hit 300F at California Speedway this weekend. It was crazy hot, 108 air temp. My car is a stock engine 1.8 NB. Has aluminum Koyo radiator that's properly ducted but no oil cooler. That oil temp was measured at the filter sandwich plate. With the Trackspeed kit no longer available what is the best off the shelf solution for a track only car? I am considering the Fab9 25 row Setrab kit. Any others I should look at? I'd rather not piece it together unless it's going to be significantly better and/or cheaper. Probably going to mount it in the fender well, have a full undertray so the steering rack location won't work. I could put it in front of the radiator if needed.
Just got back from a practice day where I hammered on it for 6 sessions in 90F weather and it never exceeded 240F. Big improvement, thanks for sharing your set ups and ideas |
Here's the new BMW M5 and its radiator design. Interesting to see the horizontal oil cooler with a flap, like they already did with the F10 M5
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