OEM. It's a completely stock, used VVT motor that I swapped a VICS onto. Run with a MSPNP1 and VVTuner setup. Savington has a good point. 3 years is about all I get out of a track motor.

However, no pictures in the area of concern.

I think what I'm really trying to determine is if I need to go:
Sandwich => -10AN adaptor => Straight -10AN female hose end
vs
Sandwich => -10AN adaptor => 90 degree -10AN female hose end

I don't want to buy a kit, and then have to purchase additional fittings to make it work. And, If I can be spoon fed, I don't have to re-invent what has been solved before.

You never notice the problems no brace causes until you go to take the manifold apart. All studs hold in there fine forever, second you put a wrench on them to take them out they snap off.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ebbe0939f6.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...495822cc78.jpg
Here is another data point for you, I modified the orm manifold brace by cutting out the portion that hits the filter, i have 15 hrs of track time and 8k mi and the brace has not cracked yet

Indeed, sorry about that.

In the area of concern, I used a filter relocation block with -10an 45 degree fittings that are angled upward and rearward in the direction of 10 o'clock. As one fitting is central to the block and the other is offset, I experimented with the block and fittings loose but attached with hoses until I had the ideal arc up to the filter location.

Because there is no stack of filter + sandwich plate to accommodate, it is fairly easy to route and maintain the maintain the brace.

Oh, of course. By filter relocation, you avoid most issues, but loose the direct thermostat.

Thanks for the further reply.

The filter block (shown in the photos) contains a thermostat that opens at 180f. The cooler is bypassed for most flow when the temp is low. Is that what you mean by 'direct thermostat'?

Same function. I was not as familiar with those (not familiar with the others really).

I was referring to the sandwich plates that have the T/Stat right there at the block, and was picturing the T/Stat on the remote oil mount to be kind of like the water T/Stat on a M-Tuned reroute. However, I understand what you are saying, that the oil from the block is always circulated up to the remote filter assy, with the thermostat.

This is is what I have attached to the block in place of the filter:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7bd31b12a9.png

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...db6e6443a3.png
And this accepts the filter mounted remotely, contains the thermostat that diverts to the oil cooler when up to temp. It also has ports for temp and pressure sensors.

That would be this one?
Looks like the perfect piece for cooler and relocation at the same time. Does anybody else have experience with this?

This thread reminds me I need to start logging oil temps... I turn lots of RPM

I followed the link to that GREX filter relocation/oil cooler adapter, but I can't find what temperature the thermostat opens at?

Try rhdjapan.com
They use Celsius for the units. 160f to 180f.

There's also this one, which is offered with 185 and 215 degree thermostats:

Remote Engine & Transmission Oil Filter Mount with Thermostat ENV-170

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...27c429aa5e.jpg

I'll be the naysayer and say that I could never see the logic in a remote filter setup. It is a bunch of added cost, lots of extra fittings and leak points, and a bunch of extra hoses just to make the filter easier to reach. I just don't struggle that much to reach the filter in these cars the 2-3x a year I have to do it.

Please see post 362. I agree, especially since I have a lift. I am just wondering if I should try to get you to substitute straight hose => female -10AN to mate with the sandwich plate male -10AN fittings? Granted I may just have to get in there and find out. Help me buy stuff from you.

.

I kinda like the idea of a larger filter for less pressure drop. It's also gives me more room for an intake brace.

Go with straight​ fittings whenever you can, if you have to use a 90 use the tube style sweeps and keep them to a minimum.

From a functionality standpoint, it's definitely worse, and it's certainly possible to make a monstrosity of adapters.

OTOH, if you do it with 4 crimped hoses and no adapters it may have fewer leak points than an average execution of a normal oil cooler setup.