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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1310315)
Just realized that my temp sensor won't fit in an adapter because of how long the tip is. Need to figure out another way to do it.
Accessories - Adapters, Fitting & Hose Try Jegs, Summit, etc. |
2 Attachment(s)
Had @hi_im_sean throw this together for me.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456348067 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456348067 Similar to TSE adapter, but the top has a 1/4 npt fitting, with a 1/4-1/8npt adapter. The male is BSPT, and the female on the end is BSPT for the stock pressure sender. There is a 1/8npt on the other side for oil feed. Hopefully @Savington gets my message in time to cancel my adapter order. |
In for mx592's housing & bracket group buy. JK. but SRS.:jerkit:
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Setrab 25 row oil cooler on ebay for $85. It looks to be a different version than most of the miata "kits" with built in AN fittings. I'm giving it a shot. Can't beat the price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/927AN10-SETR...5Wl~f8&vxp=mtr I added another item and stacked it with this $20 off $100 ebay coupon. |
Originally Posted by cyotani
(Post 1314851)
Setrab 25 row oil cooler on ebay for $85. It looks to be a different version with built in AN fittings. I'm giving it a shot. Can't beat the price.
927AN10 Setrab Oil Cooler 50 927 4062 M 25 Row 8" High 14" Wide 2" Thick | eBay I added another item and stacked it with this $20 off $100 ebay coupon. It's significantly longer than the usual 25 row. It's huge. |
I have 2, accepted offer of $130 for 2.
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1314852)
I have one. You can offer $65.
It's significantly longer than the usual 25 row. It's huge. Other than blocking more of the radiator and weight, is there any disadvantage to having a monster oil cooler? |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1314852)
I have one. You can offer $65.
It's significantly longer than the usual 25 row. It's huge. Is it an AN10 fitting? |
Originally Posted by dleavitt
(Post 1314863)
This is way overkill for my currently N/A car, but that price is mighty tempting...
Other than blocking more of the radiator and weight, is there any disadvantage to having a monster oil cooler? |
Originally Posted by cyotani
(Post 1314872)
"Bigger is always better" right?
Is it an AN10 fitting? They are AN10, but male, instead of the usual female ports. https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...0/#post1312453 |
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1314899)
Aidan's diaper changer here,
They are AN10, but male, instead of the usual female ports. https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...0/#post1312453 |
To clarify again. Its huge. Like 4 inches longer than the one in the TSE kit.
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1314852)
I have one. You can offer $65.
It's significantly longer than the usual 25 row. It's huge. |
Originally Posted by mx592
(Post 1266577)
I recently finished installing my oil cooler kit from Trackspeed (19 row) and I thought I would share.
First off, I have an intercooler and A/C already in front of my Koyo 38mm rad. They are fairly well ducted but i was already seeing water temps creeping upward throughout each 20 minute track session without ever leveling off, so i didn't think stacking the oil cooler with the other heat exchangers was a good idea. I decided to put it as high as possible in the front right corner of the car. Being that the wheel well is a high pressure area with rocks and debris flying around constantly, I decided that ducting the exit air out the front bumper just in front of the wheel would be…better. In other words I stole the idea from Ryan Passey. I started out by fabricating the mounting brackets and adding rivet nuts to the chassis to bolt it in. Part of the bracketry was for attaching the duct work. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 First I attempted to fabricate the ducting from aluminum. I had a feeling I was using too thin of a gauge and it would be hard to weld. I was right - I just don't have the chops to weld .035" alum, so I gave up on welding and took a more "fun" approach https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 Being that I have a home made 3-D printer in my kitchen, it was the natural choice for plan B. I started out by transferring the measurements off the aluminum prototype into a SolidWorks model. I had to print both the inlet side and the outlet side in two halves, since my build platform is only 8x8x11. It took a few iterations and a couple failed prints but I finally got some decent parts! They are printed from ABS so hopefully it will be able to take the temperature. We will see what happens at the next track day. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 The inlet starts out as a 3" aluminum tube that I mounted to the frame. I cut a hole in the bumper and poked it out. The printed inlet duct is connected to the aluminum tube via a short piece of brake duct hose, which keeps some flexibility in the system in case the front gets bumped (the printed parts really aren't that strong). https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1294700)
I'll just leave this right here:
Oil cooler duct kit with mounting brackets 1. EO2k 2. Psyber_0ptix 3. boop |
:yippee:
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What would you two be willing to pay for something like that?
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I will pay in US currency. But, definitely would pay for a product. If composite or something a bit stronger, I wouldn't mind shelling out some dough as it's nicely put together and a good solution especially if I'm keeping A/C and don't want to stack so many heat exchangers in a row. I know a one off would be rather pricey, I don't know if there's enough volume for a vendor to make a single run batch. I'd pay mid triple digits since I don't have the facility to print/manufacture these myself. But this is flexible depending on the end product if someone is willing to take this on. Though I just realized this is for a 19row Setrab cooler while I have a 25row
I'm curious if a wider collector/scoop/velocity stack could be used up front instead of a pipe. |
I would love one for my 25 row, does that leave room for a second fan? I had my needle start to climb the other day on asphalt on a 90* sunny day. Pulled over and grounded out the fan in the diagnostic box to cool it down, pretty sure moving the cooler from the A/C fan spot to there and adding back that second fan would fix this.
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Originally Posted by Der_Idiot
(Post 1336995)
I would love one for my 25 row, does that leave room for a second fan? I had my needle start to climb the other day on asphalt on a 90* sunny day. Pulled over and grounded out the fan in the diagnostic box to cool it down, pretty sure moving the cooler from the A/C fan spot to there and adding back that second fan would fix this.
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1294700)
I'll just leave this right here:
Oil cooler [25 row] duct kit with mounting brackets 1. EO2k 2. Psyber_0ptix 3. Der_Idiot 4. how many people would we need for there to be interest in making this a reality? |
Originally Posted by mx592
(Post 1266577)
Being that I have a home made 3-D printer in my kitchen, it was the natural choice for plan B. I started out by transferring the measurements off the aluminum prototype into a SolidWorks model. I had to print both the inlet side and the outlet side in two halves, since my build platform is only 8x8x11. It took a few iterations and a couple failed prints but I finally got some decent parts! They are printed from ABS so hopefully it will be able to take the temperature. We will see what happens at the next track day.
http://www.nrri.umn.edu/NLTC/ABS07.pdf https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass_transition http://www.stratasys.com/materials/fdm/pc If you have good airflow and an insulated / gasketed gap you can probably get away with ABS. PC or PC/ABS mix will raise the temp as you can gain ~50C or ~20C respectively on the glass transition temperature. |
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1336999)
Just curious, pressing the A/C button with the interior fan doesn't manually activate your fan?
how many people would we need for there to be interest in making this a reality?
Originally Posted by vtjballeng
(Post 1337000)
Beautiful. ~90C ABS starts to weaken. ~105C it weakens more (Tg or glass transition). Oil temps will likely reach these values so I would recommend another material if possible.
http://www.nrri.umn.edu/NLTC/ABS07.pdf https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass_transition PC Thermoplastic, Fortus 3D Production Systems FDM Materials | Stratasys If you have good airflow and an insulated / gasketed gap you can probably get away with ABS. PC or PC/ABS mix will raise the temp as you can gain ~50C or ~20C respectively on the glass transition temperature. |
That's curious. My fans are also in tandem and the main run when A/C is used anyway. I don't have an A/C compressor at the moment, but I can turn my fans on manually by switching on the blower and pressing the A/C button.
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If the chassis doesn't come with A/C from the factory, they may not have the A/C button on the blower motor controls.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1336970)
What would you two be willing to pay for something like that?
The heat issue needs resolution one way or another, and there may be a need to protect the plastic from rocks and debris off the tyre, but that may be as simple as providing mounting points for purchasers to mount their own aluminium shield as and if they wish (or maybe that is too trivial for the 'can do' folk on here). |
If you're really concerned for the heat its relatively easy to sand and filler the printed parts and make molds off of them for making composites using resin with better high temp properties than abs. And thats probably better suited to production than actually printing all of them.
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Originally Posted by Der_Idiot
(Post 1337044)
If the chassis doesn't come with A/C from the factory, they may not have the A/C button on the blower motor controls.
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Mishimoto Oil cooler kit.
Has anyone besides them done any testing on it yet. They have redone it a couple of times since the univeral release. They've incorporated a duct at the undertray with mesh for protection. Granted, it only has a 10 row core, but uses 10an lines, larger than FM and better airflow than FM too. It shouldn't increase engine pressure that much I think. They are having a massive sale 30% off and I might spring for it because it would be around $345 shipped http://m.mishimoto.com/mazda-miata-oil-cooler-kit-99-05.html http://engineering.mishimoto.com/2015/09/mazda-miata-nb-oil-cooler-rd-part-2-oil-cooler-shroud-and-duct-development/ |
Our experience with Mishimoto products has not been favorable. They do appear to be improving since the catch can we received from them that was non-functional. As in, whomever designed it didn't know how a catch can works. Just a shiny can with some fittings. Radiators that don't fit. Fans that disintegrate, etc
Setrab and TSE OTOH.. that is a no brainer. Don't skimp on your oil cooler. |
I've had the same experience. They had a thread on cr.net with some statements about their testing procedure that were just wrong. Testing the warm up time without driving (no air through the cooler) and similar.
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lol @ their cooler placement.
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Placement is not as bad as the ducting ;)
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They basically used the same location as FM, just with a custom air duct. The location worries me though. I haven't had an off course track incident yet, but it'll happen eventually because that's racing. That duct will turn into a nice shovel plow.
I haven't had any over heating issues yet with my stock MSM cooling system. I just wanted to gather some input on it and see if anyone had any decent luck with it. I wouldn't call it cheaping out considering they do use some quality parts and that price tag. I really dislike fabricating all the time and was just looking for a solid plug and play solution like my moss kit on the NA. |
I'm using a location that is not too far off on my new car (laying flat under the sway bar) but I have a splitter that will take any hit well before something comes even close to the cooler and my ducting is done completely differently.
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Originally Posted by mr_mazda329
(Post 1343139)
They basically used the same location as FM, just with a custom air duct. The location worries me though. I haven't had an off course track incident yet, but it'll happen eventually because that's racing. That duct will turn into a nice shovel plow.
I haven't had any over heating issues yet with my stock MSM cooling system. I just wanted to gather some input on it and see if anyone had any decent luck with it. I wouldn't call it cheaping out considering they do use some quality parts and that price tag. I really dislike fabricating all the time and was just looking for a solid plug and play solution like my moss kit on the NA. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1343142)
You're comparing a Setrab core to a Mishimoto core. That is about as apples and orange as you get.
Hate to play the devils advocate, especially with you Emilio since I respect everything you have done for the platform. Has anyone compared this oil cooler core vs a setrab equivalent? Or even emailed them and asked them if it is a debaged Setrab? Flow testing? Like I almost want to get it to test things out just. I mean, I currently run an eBay FMIC and downpipe and a joes CAI intake on my MSM. Car works beautifully and flawless over the past 2 yrs. Yet, I am the devil because, I didn't buy Begi or FM, in the MSM world. |
Originally Posted by mr_mazda329
(Post 1343162)
Has anyone compared this oil cooler core vs a setrab equivalent? Or even emailed them and asked them if it is a debaged Setrab? Flow testing? Like I almost want to get it to test things out just.
In other words, feel free to do that testing and share it with the community. Controlled A-B testing with inlet/outlet temps measured and datalogged in relation to ambient air temp. With all due respect, I won't waste my time trying to justify the functionality of a Setrab cooler compared to some off-brand knockoff core. |
Hello All,
Thank you for the post and inquiry about our products. All of our products are tested and engineered here in the USA and go through a long testing process to ensure high quality and reliability for our customers. For any additional information, or questions, please contact us directly. |
You would sound more convincing if you didn't post the same generic "quality" disclaimer that all the other knockoff companies posted.
;) |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1346353)
You would sound more convincing if you didn't post the same generic "quality" disclaimer that all the other knockoff companies posted.
;) |
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1294700)
I'll just leave this right here:
Oil cooler (25row) duct kit with mounting brackets 1. EO2k 2. Psyber_0ptix 3. Der Idiot 4. |
The positively awesome fab work demonstrated above makes my efforts look rather basic. For those of us with access to more basic tools/skills I thought I'd share my work in progress attempt at a front right bumper/wing void oil cooler install.
I was inspired by the work that Lokiel completed, which can be seen here Foglight Oil Cooler install For my purposes, I wanted to route the hoses to and from the cooler above the rail rather than under it, and to fit a filter relocation block with the filter hanging downwards rather than sideways or facing up. https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/280/31...7fdae381_c.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/1/691/31...28584f3f_c.jpg Mounted in this location, there is ample room to route the hoses down behind the headlight and into the void. This path requires cutting a small hole in the guard liner for the lines to pass through, but the lines do not intrude the wheel well. I used split loom to protect the hoses where they pass through the liner. This is what the arrangement looks like from the engine bay: https://c4.staticflickr.com/1/716/31...90b48d63_c.jpg https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/572/31...d0263ed4_c.jpg https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/548/31...fa4e2721_c.jpg I have not put together ducting as yet, but plan to use the existing fog light hole as a source of airflow. The brackets for the oil cooler and filter block are aluminium flat bar, angle and box section from the hardware store, fixed with nutserts and M6 bolts and packed with 3mm insertion rubber. The cooler is a Setrab, the filter block and relocation block are Grex/Greddy units, and the hose and ends are Speedflow 10AN. |
Does anyone with the TSE 16 row or 25 row have measurements? I need to get one before the season starts but haven't figured out placement yet. Dimensions would help.
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Originally Posted by sicklyscott
(Post 1384738)
Does anyone with the TSE 16 row or 25 row have measurements? I need to get one before the season starts but haven't figured out placement yet. Dimensions would help.
Setrab Engine Oil Coolers | susa 6 series, pay attention to the center of the part number |
Why haven't I read this thread earlier? A+ on the wealth of info in here!
Australian, I like that stealthy placement, but please keep in mind that rotating wheels create pressure in the wheel well and radiators work across pressure differentials. I much prefer mx592 way of venting it, albeit I would use a small gurney flap on the bumper, right before the vent opening to generate some suction in this area. |
I'm trying to picture where I might fit a 16 row Setrab in my '99 with A/C.
It seems to me that everything would work better if replacing the condenser from a NB2 would get the dryer out of the way and allow me to move the FMIC back 1.5 inches. Will an NB2 condenser fit in an NB1? Is the smaller, side mounted drier only about as thick as the condenser, as it appears to be in pictures? Would I need to purchase a complete, new condenser, or is the drier a separate piece? Otherwise, I may put the oil cooler above the FMIC, but that will not be so easily done. |
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1417328)
Will an NB2 condenser fit in an NB1?
You COULD have custom flexable AC hoses made to connect everything up, but I don't know if the juice would be worth the squeeze. I ended up ditching the AC. :( |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1417332)
No. The easy answer without getting into details is "everything is different except the compressor." I did extensive reading about this because I too was trying to figure out how to swap NB2 AC bits into my NB1 so I could fit an intercooler and not ditch the AC.
You COULD have custom flexable AC hoses made to connect everything up, but I don't know if the juice would be worth the squeeze. I ended up ditching the AC. :( |
I'm fairly positive the compressor and compressor mounting bracket are different between the MSM and the NB2, but I couldn't say between the NB1 and NB2. Nothing I read said that part was different, just like, nearly everything else.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1417339)
I know its different between the MSM and the NB2, but I couldn't say between the NB1 and NB2.
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You got in before my clarification edit, but yes, that is my understanding as well about the NB1 and NB2 compressors.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1417332)
No. The easy answer without getting into details is "everything is different except the compressor." I did extensive reading about this because I too was trying to figure out how to swap NB2 AC bits into my NB1 so I could fit an intercooler and not ditch the AC.
You COULD have custom flexable AC hoses made to connect everything up, but I don't know if the juice would be worth the squeeze. I ended up ditching the AC. :( |
Also, is it a given that I will have to lose my IM brace to put in the Mocal thermostatic adaptor? I'm thinking that @nick470 only made a small modification to his.
Nick, did you use 90* fittings on your lines, or straight ones, to keep the brace? I plan to purchase a kit from @Savington |
I kept my IM brace, but I did have to shim it out ~3mm (Washer on the bottom bolt). You will also be limited to stock sized oil filters.
I also used EDIT.... |
Originally Posted by leboeuf
(Post 1417522)
I kept my IM brace, but I did have to shim it out ~3mm (Washer on the bottom bolt). You will also be limited to stock sized oil filters.
I also used EDIT.... Possibly you have a picture of your orientation? |
Been tracking pretty hard for 3+ years without the IM brace. RPM limit 7500. OEM VICS manifold and throttle body with OEM IM gasket. No issues.
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Post #53 in my build thread has the best pictures... Which aren't very good... One of them does show how the fittings are pointing off of the plate.
I will change a good bit about my oil cooler setup if I ever dig back in to it, so I'm not posting to spread my technique. Could be worth looking at for some ideas. |
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1417604)
Been tracking pretty hard for 3+ years without the IM brace. RPM limit 7500. OEM VICS manifold and throttle body with OEM IM gasket. No issues.
What harmonic balancer / damper? |
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1417604)
Been tracking pretty hard for 3+ years without the IM brace. RPM limit 7500. OEM VICS manifold and throttle body with OEM IM gasket. No issues.
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Oil cooler + retained manifold brace
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1417633)
I used to say the same thing until I pulled the last motor out of Rover. ~3 years of track days, Squaretop manifold, no brace. There was a large (1x1x1") chunk broken out of the corner of the #1 runner of the manifold, straight through one of the mounting ears and all the way down into the runner, and four of the nine IM studs were broken. Suddenly I'm a fan of the OEM IM brace, or some sort of replacement which is compatible with oil coolers.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1417633)
I used to say the same thing until I pulled the last motor out of Rover. ~3 years of track days, Squaretop manifold, no brace. There was a large (1x1x1") chunk broken out of the corner of the #1 runner of the manifold, straight through one of the mounting ears and all the way down into the runner, and four of the nine IM studs were broken. Suddenly I'm a fan of the OEM IM brace, or some sort of replacement which is compatible with oil coolers.
Think I can modify the stock brace somehow? Nick (see a couple of posts up) shaved a bit off his, but it looks like he would have used a straight hose fitting to mate up there. Think that concept would work? I'll try to find his picture and post it here with an edit. EDIT: POST #17 I don't have my turbo oil feed coming from that area, only the stock oil pressure sending unit. |
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