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Originally Posted by Bronson M
(Post 1497362)
I mounted my cooler in the same location with the hoses off the bottom. The topic of the inlet location came up in my build thread and it was pointed out that the oil is thick enough to push the air out. I verified this with an IR heat gun, temps were even across the core.
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This one will fit: Setrab STD Narrow 25-row Oil Cooler (L:210mm, H:193mm, D:50mm; 2xM22 connections)
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I want to move my oil cooler from immediately behind the front bumper to somewhere safer.
Behind the radiator looks like the best place for me.
One potential further issue with this setup.... As discussed earlier in this thread, an inverted oil cooler is much nicer from an oil line routing aspect in this location, but I'm worried about time to get oil pressure on startup. From Megasquirt datalogs, it takes 1.9 seconds from first firing with my current setup (albeit the oil lines need to be fairly long for that). Does anyone have the time it takes to get oil pressure both before and after an inverted cooler setup? |
This might be a basic question but I'd like some input from others here.
I have a 1.6l in a '91 running a Rotrex at around 200 whp (let's not talk about tq here). I have the FM oil cooler kit bolted up to the steering rack with a small duct in front capturing and pushing air through it. I just hooked up my oil temp gauge using an adapter on the oil drain plug. After driving around all day I didn't see temps above 175 degrees. I spent a good 30 mins on the highway in 4th at high rpms just to see if I could get oil temps up and really not much happened above 170. From what I understand this is "bad". With the setup I have, is this bad? Am I over thinking this? I expected temps to be higher after a couple hours of driving. Am I just not creating enough heat driving on the highway? |
Originally Posted by sicklyscott
(Post 1505422)
Am I just not creating enough heat driving on the highway?
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I have my sensor in this location also, I'm sure its not optimal. I would imagine the outlet on the way to the oil cooler would be better.
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The sump is the correct place to measure from.
The oil in the sump is the stuff that's just fallen off the engine, and that's the temp you're trying to measure. |
Originally Posted by sicklyscott
(Post 1505422)
This might be a basic question but I'd like some input from others here.
I have a 1.6l in a '91 running a Rotrex at around 200 whp (let's not talk about tq here). I have the FM oil cooler kit bolted up to the steering rack with a small duct in front capturing and pushing air through it. I just hooked up my oil temp gauge using an adapter on the oil drain plug. After driving around all day I didn't see temps above 175 degrees. I spent a good 30 mins on the highway in 4th at high rpms just to see if I could get oil temps up and really not much happened above 170. From what I understand this is "bad". With the setup I have, is this bad? Am I over thinking this? I expected temps to be higher after a couple hours of driving. Am I just not creating enough heat driving on the highway? |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1505578)
The sump is the correct place to measure from. There should be very little difference in temp from the sump to the oil cooler inlet, since that oil is just passing through the pickup tube and pump. The oil in the sump is the stuff that's just fallen off the engine, and that's the temp you're trying to measure.
(I do have a band-aid sender-in-the-drain-plug, rather than having a well position oil temp bung, however, so perhaps that accounts for at least some of it) --Ian |
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1505582)
Are you feeding the cooler via a thermostatic bypass? |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1505593)
the sender in my sump is easily reporting 20F cooler than the sender in the outlet of my oil cooler.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1505674)
...duh? :) Did you mean inlet to cooler?
So either the oil pump and cooler are heating the oil up by 20-ish degrees (which seems unlikely), or the sender in the oil pan drain plug is not accurately reflecting the temperature of the oil that the pickup is pulling out. Swapping the senders doesn't change it, either, so it's a mechanical thing not an electronic one. --Ian |
Oop, I read that backwards (cooler outlet cooler than sump, hence "duh"). How hard would it be to swap the sensor over to the cooler inlet to see that difference?
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1505705)
Oop, I read that backwards (cooler outlet cooler than sump, hence "duh"). How hard would it be to swap the sensor over to the cooler inlet to see that difference?
http://www.codrus.com/miata/fm2r/oil-temp-fitting.jpg This disparity only manifests on track, though, and I've only tried it in ~ 20 minute sessions. It's possible that might reverse given enough time to heat soak the pan/etc. --Ian |
Sandwich plate or stock oil pressure gauge location is same temp as cooler inlet
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Originally Posted by mx592
(Post 1266577)
I recently finished installing my oil cooler kit from Trackspeed (19 row) and I thought I would share.
First off, I have an intercooler and A/C already in front of my Koyo 38mm rad. They are fairly well ducted but i was already seeing water temps creeping upward throughout each 20 minute track session without ever leveling off, so i didn't think stacking the oil cooler with the other heat exchangers was a good idea. I decided to put it as high as possible in the front right corner of the car. Being that the wheel well is a high pressure area with rocks and debris flying around constantly, I decided that ducting the exit air out the front bumper just in front of the wheel would be…better. In other words I stole the idea from Ryan Passey. I started out by fabricating the mounting brackets and adding rivet nuts to the chassis to bolt it in. Part of the bracketry was for attaching the duct work. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 First I attempted to fabricate the ducting from aluminum. I had a feeling I was using too thin of a gauge and it would be hard to weld. I was right - I just don't have the chops to weld .035" alum, so I gave up on welding and took a more "fun" approach https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 Being that I have a home made 3-D printer in my kitchen, it was the natural choice for plan B. I started out by transferring the measurements off the aluminum prototype into a SolidWorks model. I had to print both the inlet side and the outlet side in two halves, since my build platform is only 8x8x11. It took a few iterations and a couple failed prints but I finally got some decent parts! They are printed from ABS so hopefully it will be able to take the temperature. We will see what happens at the next track day. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 The inlet starts out as a 3" aluminum tube that I mounted to the frame. I cut a hole in the bumper and poked it out. The printed inlet duct is connected to the aluminum tube via a short piece of brake duct hose, which keeps some flexibility in the system in case the front gets bumped (the printed parts really aren't that strong). https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1442296300 I have been using FM Oil Cooler kit for sometime now. But over the weekend it was one of the hotter days and the oil temp gets too high after 5 or so hot laps, so I guess I need to do something about the ducting work or fit one like yours. Would you sell your 3d printed duct and brackets? |
Originally Posted by etang789
(Post 1529944)
Wow amazing job!
I have been using FM Oil Cooler kit for sometime now. But over the weekend it was one of the hotter days and the oil temp gets too high after 5 or so hot laps, so I guess I need to do something about the ducting work or fit one like yours. Would you sell your 3d printed duct and brackets? FM cooler uses -8 lines. Too small for a BP. That is all |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1529949)
Neg cat for quoting that entire post full of pics.
Its a small but welcome demonstration that we all start off not being Motti :rofl: |
Originally Posted by Tran
(Post 1502316)
I want to move my oil cooler from immediately behind the front bumper to somewhere safer.
Behind the radiator looks like the best place for me.
One potential further issue with this setup.... As discussed earlier in this thread, an inverted oil cooler is much nicer from an oil line routing aspect in this location, but I'm worried about time to get oil pressure on startup. From Megasquirt datalogs, it takes 1.9 seconds from first firing with my current setup (albeit the oil lines need to be fairly long for that). Does anyone have the time it takes to get oil pressure both before and after an inverted cooler setup? However from an oil cooling aspect, it's not as effective as I'd like on track, and maybe too effective on the road. Compared to the 13 row cooler in free air in front of rad, this runs 10C cooler, but as I found out on my last trackday during a bit of an unseasonably warm spell, it reached 123C peak in 23C ambient. I had made some shrouding between the rad and the oil cooler to force air into it, this looks like its fallen off. Does anyone have any recommendations for tape that would stick to an oil cooler at 120C+? I'll also make some shrouding improvements in front of the rad, 123C is a bit hot for my liking. On the road, in 5C ambient (with 93C Mocal thermostat and still the OEM oil warmer), it can only maintain 80C above 70mph. Drop to a 50mph zone and it falls to low 70s. |
Originally Posted by Tran
(Post 1540456)
I installed a 25 row Setrab behind the radiator. I was able to remove 1.5 metres of oil line compared to my routing at the front of the car. This has reduced my oil pressure lag on startup to 1.4s which is a nice improvement. (I kept the cooler upright)
However from an oil cooling aspect, it's not as effective as I'd like on track, and maybe too effective on the road. Compared to the 13 row cooler in free air in front of rad, this runs 10C cooler, but as I found out on my last trackday during a bit of an unseasonably warm spell, it reached 123C peak in 23C ambient. I had made some shrouding between the rad and the oil cooler to force air into it, this looks like its fallen off. Does anyone have any recommendations for tape that would stick to an oil cooler at 120C+? I'll also make some shrouding improvements in front of the rad, 123C is a bit hot for my liking. On the road, in 5C ambient (with 93C Mocal thermostat and still the OEM oil warmer), it can only maintain 80C above 70mph. Drop to a 50mph zone and it falls to low 70s. Initially I mounted my huge 310mm x 19 row vertically behind the radiator (where the AC fan would go), with some brackets supporting it a few cm away from the core face. This is obviously bad as you are not getting forced air, so I added some cut aluminium sheet to the passenger side, and sealed top and bottom with Al tape. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...adb67ed017.png This proved not efficient enough for the track, so I re-did this plate and added another one on the other side, this time only a few mm between the edge of the plates and the core. This was suficient for track use with ITBs and then at 230hp with the rotrex, even in a decently warm day (24-25C) I reached a peak oil temperature of 110, but at that point water temperature was 103C. I did not have perfect ducting during that last trackday and my radiator was mounted in the AC condenser slots, with my large IC I had a small-ish gap between the IC and front crossmember which meant low airflow to the top of the rad. Since this positioning means Oil temperature is a bit more influenced by Water Temp, if you have good stable water temperatures and you duct them together it should be enough. I have since moved the rad back to the original position, but now my oil cooler is flat against the Rad, since there is no space due to the large RB sway: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eafa4ce1a9.png https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...aad8e87853.png This means I shouldnt need to add side plates to duct it, but I will if needed. Combined with my better ducting, greatly increasing the gap for air to go around the IC and adding reroute my water temps should be much reduced, as well as my oil temps. Of note, I have the rotrex oil cooler at the front on the side and directly in front of where the oil cooler is, so that was an extra impediment to cooling. Before I had the rotrex, with ITBs at 170hp, on a track where I spent more time at higher RPM and a hotter day, I saw 95C oil temperatures. TD;DR: If you FULLY duct the Oil cooler to the Rad, and its decently big, it should be enough even for Portugal Summer temperatures :) |
I have a similar setup on my NA vvt '93. Keeps oil temps to around 220 or less on track in ~98+ ambient Texas weather. I'm thinking a nice, small electric fan will really help improve efficiency since it's seeing air after the radiator. That is my next plan, and I'll wire it on a switch so I can compare on the same day.
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Originally Posted by tyhackman15
(Post 1540811)
I have a similar setup on my NA vvt '93. Keeps oil temps to around 220 or less on track in ~98+ ambient Texas weather. I'm thinking a nice, small electric fan will really help improve efficiency since it's seeing air after the radiator. That is my next plan, and I'll wire it on a switch so I can compare on the same day.
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Originally Posted by tyhackman15
(Post 1540811)
I have a similar setup on my NA vvt '93. Keeps oil temps to around 220 or less on track in ~98+ ambient Texas weather. I'm thinking a nice, small electric fan will really help improve efficiency since it's seeing air after the radiator. That is my next plan, and I'll wire it on a switch so I can compare on the same day.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...71f133fa6.jpeg |
Originally Posted by etang789
(Post 1529944)
Wow amazing job!
I have been using FM Oil Cooler kit for sometime now. But over the weekend it was one of the hotter days and the oil temp gets too high after 5 or so hot laps, so I guess I need to do something about the ducting work or fit one like yours. Would you sell your 3d printed duct and brackets? There are a few ducting options in the market, too lazy to look for you more than 1 but there are cheaper ones too https://www.demon-tweeks.com/us/revo...ct-kit-343114/ |
Since this is a great thread I am adding my take on it (Well, my awesome mechanic's really)
13 row setrab with -10an 60 deg up top and a straight one down. Used Russell 632160 for the hose lines and had just enough. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...776b1899ba.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1e4db0f6f1.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2812ec3452.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...86f2788187.jpg |
^
You're going to need to sheath that oil line with split loom and keep a close watch on it to prevent it from sawing into the intercooler pipe/hose. Stainless steel braided hoses are nice but they MUST not rub anything! |
Ditto the warning on routing stainless braided hose. It's a buzzsaw to what ever it touches.
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I cut a short piece of radiator hose to act as a barrier for my oil cooler lines.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ac195099b8.jpg |
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d9ab7141b8.jpg
Has anyone mounted his oil cooler laid flat in the mouth? I currently run a 25 row cooler behind the 50 mm aluminium water cooler, fully ducted to the radiator. The intercooler is located 25 mm before the radiator and covers the lower half of the radiator. Everything is fully sealed to the mouth opening. On track I see water temps of 90-93° C and regular oil temps of 100° C, taken at the oil drain in the pan. However at the Ring I see brief moments of almost 130° C when 320 whp are running free for 30" on an uphill straight. So I wonder if I could improve my cooling. My idea was to switch to a smaller 19 row cooler, but mount it horizontally before the intercooler. So it wouldn't be a V setup but rather an L setup. It would be attached to a Dibond plate, again fully sealed so air needs to pass through the oil cooler and then exit into the gap between my splitter-ish underbody panel and the radiator ducting l, and from there exit the engine bay together with all the other hot air from engine bay I don't want to dump the air into the fast air underneath the splitter |
Originally Posted by Eunos91
(Post 1573416)
s anyone mounted his oil cooler laid flat in the mouth? I currently run a 25 row cooler behind the 50 mm aluminium water cooler, fully ducted to the radiator. The intercooler is located 25 mm before the radiator and covers the lower half of the radiator. Everything is fully sealed to the mouth opening.
On track I see water temps of 90-93° C and regular oil temps of 100° C, taken at the oil drain in the pan. However at the Ring I see brief moments of almost 130° C when 320 whp are running free for 30" on an uphill straight. So I wonder if I could improve my cooling. My idea was to switch to a smaller 19 row cooler, but mount it horizontally before the intercooler. So it wouldn't be a V setup but rather an L setup. It would be attached to a Dibond plate, again fully sealed so air needs to pass through the oil cooler and then exit into the gap between my splitter-ish underbody panel and the radiator ducting l, and from there exit the engine bay together with all the other hot air from engine bay I don't want to dump the air into the fast air underneath the splitter |
Originally Posted by Bronson M
(Post 1573417)
100c is actually too cool, 130c is only 266F......barely getting up there honestly. You sure you're not looking for a problem to fix?
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Sure, but most folks aim for 220-250 degree oil temps though. Gotta get above the 212 degree boiling point for the water vapor to boil off.
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Originally Posted by Bronson M
(Post 1573417)
100c is actually too cool, 130c is only 266F......barely getting up there honestly. You sure you're not looking for a problem to fix?
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Originally Posted by Bronson M
(Post 1573421)
Sure, but most folks aim for 220-250 degree oil temps though. Gotta get above the 212 degree boiling point for the water vapor to boil off.
If the thermostat is set to open at 205° you'll find your actual temps are a bit higher in practice. Here's an image I snipped off the web: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f7ec0c08c4.jpg This is for the Improved Racing oil thermostat ( High-Flow Engine Oil Cooler Thermostat FSM ) to give you an idea of what I'm talking about. This behavior is common in all wax pill/motor thermally regulated systems. |
Originally Posted by Eunos91
(Post 1573416)
Has anyone mounted his oil cooler laid flat in the mouth?
My idea was to switch to a smaller 19 row cooler, but mount it horizontally before the intercooler. So it wouldn't be a V setup but rather an L setup. It would be attached to a Dibond plate, again fully sealed so air needs to pass through the oil cooler and then exit into the gap between my splitter-ish underbody panel and the radiator ducting l, and from there exit the engine bay together with all the other hot air from engine bay |
Thanks for the confirmation of my idea Emilio
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Originally Posted by Eunos91
(Post 1573416)
I currently run a 25 row cooler behind the 50 mm aluminium water cooler, fully ducted to the radiator.
I had noticed that my oil temps weren't as good as I'd expected, so thought I would put a temperature sensor right behind the radiator to see what temperature of air, the oil cooler is actually getting. See the plot of a 15 minute session below, admittedly this session wasn't as fast as the car could go, but still ~10 seconds/lap under the UK spec miata pace, at 170kpa = 265hp and 1160kg total. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d2766856a4.png The air temps out of the rad were around ambient +30C. My ambient temp sensor appears to heat soak a little on track (and definitely in the pits!). Ambient according to the weather report at the time was 14C. Still, oil temps of almost ambient +100C is a lot, more than I'd like. The data suggests this setrab would be capable of ambient +70C given ambient air, which would be more than enough for me. Or put another way, taking air from behind the rad, needs an oil cooler sized 40-50% larger, assuming the airflow is the same (big assumption!) I'm tempted to move my oil cooler, which would allow a second radiator fan to shed heat faster when a session get's red flagged I can't do sufficient cooldown, but that's another topic.... |
Originally Posted by Tran
(Post 1573446)
I have a similar setup, a 25 row setrab mounted where the A/C fan would go. This is behind a 50mm core rad that is well ducted and sealed to the front bumper, though I do have large hood vents.
I had noticed that my oil temps weren't as good as I'd expected, The data suggests this setrab would be capable of ambient +70C given ambient air, which would be more than enough for me. Or put another way, taking air from behind the rad, needs an oil cooler sized 40-50% larger, assuming the airflow is the same (big assumption!) |
Oil temp hit 300F at California Speedway this weekend. It was crazy hot, 108 air temp. My car is a stock engine 1.8 NB. Has aluminum Koyo radiator that's properly ducted but no oil cooler. That oil temp was measured at the filter sandwich plate. With the Trackspeed kit no longer available what is the best off the shelf solution for a track only car? I am considering the Fab9 25 row Setrab kit. Any others I should look at? I'd rather not piece it together unless it's going to be significantly better and/or cheaper. Probably going to mount it in the fender well, have a full undertray so the steering rack location won't work. I could put it in front of the radiator if needed.
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Best to have a decent race shop take a look at your setup. OTC cooler kits are a great concept, but usually they're a compromise at best in my experience. Mocal sandwich plate, then custom order the straight/45/90/etc fittings that best fit your application, then nylon braided hose of the correct length to avoid trigger wheels, accommodate mounting locations, avoid reroute hoses, work with filter relocations (which no one in this thread should own), etc, etc, and you've got a well functioning cooler setup.
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Thanks for the response. The Fab9 kit comes with the Mocal sandwich plate (180 deg), -10AN hose and fittings, and the 25 row Setrab cooler. Seems like a good kit and I believe it sells for less than I can buy the parts for separately. Looks more track focused than the other Miata coolers I've seen.
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Buy it from a reputable Setrab dealer, buy the sandwich plate, and have some hoses made by a local hydraulic shop. Fab9 doesn't stock anything and just orders and drop ships when you order. And they have crappy customer service.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1579115)
Buy it from a reputable Setrab dealer, buy the sandwich plate, and have some hoses made by a local hydraulic shop. Fab9 doesn't stock anything and just orders and drop ships when you order. And they have crappy customer service after you give them money.
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Just looked at the Fab9 kit. Appears to be 100% OTS parts.
IOW, you can replicate it on your own. |
Thanks for the info on Fab9. I'll likely end up building my own. I've got a few spare oil coolers in the garage I may try to adapt, although they might be too big. Pretty surprising that there aren't more options for quality kits considering how many Miatas see track time.
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Tend to agree with Josh. Bespoke is the best plan for oil coolers. Too many variables in routing for an OTS kit to be optimum for everyone.
-Only use -10AN. -8 too small -Must have a tstat -Pay attention not just to air intake but also exiting the core -Try to route hoses so they have only one gradual change in elevation between core and adapter. No roller coaster. - If you feed core from bottom, you can drain core and lines during oil changes. Not absolutely necessary, but it helps replace all old oil. - Setrab >* |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1579289)
-Pay attention not just to air intake but also exiting the core
I plan to have a dedicated air path to the oil core but only ~1" gap to the coolant radiator. Maybe you mean more about exit air management rather than temperature considerations? I'm in the midst of mounting now and my constraints are more based on my lack of fabrication skills. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...23de30fe15.png |
Originally Posted by b3d3g1
(Post 1579290)
Can you elaborate on the "exiting the core" considerations that you are aware of?
I plan to have a dedicated air path to the oil core but only ~1" gap to the coolant radiator. Maybe you mean more about exit air management rather than temperature considerations? I'm in the midst of mounting now and my constraints are more based on my lack of fabrication skills. O/C airmass might be 240-280° and radiator wants to see <150° air to do its job. Exacerbated by your downflow rad where the hottest coolant is fed in from the top. It will all work better than no O/C but it can be improved. I think William has his mounted horizontally behind the rad. Bullet was under headlight with ducting. Vegas is horizontal below radiator with some ducting. In each case, O/C exit is not feeding radiator. my .02 |
If you've got no headlights because racecar, put the cooler where the old headlight bucket used to be and duct the turn signal opening into it and let it exhaust into the engine bay. Having hood vents will help this a lot.
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Originally Posted by Arca_ex
(Post 1579297)
If you've got no headlights because racecar, put the cooler where the old headlight bucket used to be and duct the turn signal opening into it and let it exhaust into the engine bay. Having hood vents will help this a lot.
https://images2.imgbox.com/0a/b3/WXxVshTf_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/b2/6a/Ji2WTqZs_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/6c/e8/KtEUaRnP_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/61/6e/RrVW5Q17_o.jpg https://images2.imgbox.com/2d/76/DENBKwbN_o.jpg |
I think I might have to go back to the drawing board with my mounting. This was my old setup and sounds like it was probably more effective. Need the figure out how to repackage the with a different core but I'm digging that upward facing concept.
Fun fact: this core started as a FM steering rack mounted core. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...db4f5da3f0.png |
Originally Posted by b3d3g1
(Post 1579313)
I think I might have to go back to the drawing board with my mounting. This was my old setup and sounds like it was probably more effective. Need the figure out how to repackage the with a different core but I'm digging that upward facing concept.
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Are -10 lines any benefit if the oe heat exchanger is retained? I’m not sure a thermostat plate is really required for turbo applications with a limited oil sump volume. Mine seems to heat the oil up fairly fast. FWIW I personally prefer to mount all oil related components low to prevent air accumulation.
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-10 are definitely beneficial, you can see substantial pressure drop across -8, especially if you are running the core in front of the radiator.
I am surprized people haven't gravitated more towards the series 1. The flow characteristics are much better, as are the port locations IMO. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1579289)
- If you feed core from bottom, you can drain core and lines during oil changes. Not absolutely necessary, but it helps replace all old oil.
On a side note, it seems like an opportunity for setrab or someone to install a drain plug at the bottom of one of the end tanks and temp sensor bosses in both end tanks to get temp delta info, I'm surprised that doesn't exist on the market. |
Here's my current setup, similar to the one found on the BMW M5 (F10). However, on the Beemer the air exits through the undertray, while on the Miatini the air exits above my Dibond undertray (not pictured) into the engine bay, just like the water radiator. Works so far and runs a lot cooler than my previous setup (behind the water radiator with a sealed 15 mm gap)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7d2bb2a3b7.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...762e4945b6.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1597c3ab62.jpg |
Originally Posted by Eunos91
(Post 1579519)
Here's my current setup, similar to the one found on the BMW M5 (F10). However, on the Beemer the air exits through the undertray, while on the Miatini the air exits above my Dibond undertray (not pictured) into the engine bay, just like the water radiator. Works so far and runs a lot cooler than my previous setup (behind the water radiator with a sealed 15 mm gap)
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1597c3ab62.jpg I may be completely wrong, but that seems like a horrible mounting location. Any sort of off track trip or hitting some rough curbing looks like the oil cooler is being hit first. Then no oil pressure for motor. I know a compplaint I have heard over the years is the FM mounting location and it being hit with rocks and such. This just looks so much worse to me. |
Except that it is completely shielded from below with a 4 mm Dibond plate and sits higher than the subframe etc
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Originally Posted by Cory M
(Post 1579086)
Oil temp hit 300F at California Speedway this weekend. It was crazy hot, 108 air temp. My car is a stock engine 1.8 NB. Has aluminum Koyo radiator that's properly ducted but no oil cooler. That oil temp was measured at the filter sandwich plate. With the Trackspeed kit no longer available what is the best off the shelf solution for a track only car? I am considering the Fab9 25 row Setrab kit. Any others I should look at? I'd rather not piece it together unless it's going to be significantly better and/or cheaper. Probably going to mount it in the fender well, have a full undertray so the steering rack location won't work. I could put it in front of the radiator if needed.
Just got back from a practice day where I hammered on it for 6 sessions in 90F weather and it never exceeded 240F. Big improvement, thanks for sharing your set ups and ideas |
Here's the new BMW M5 and its radiator design. Interesting to see the horizontal oil cooler with a flap, like they already did with the F10 M5
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