Madjak

Over the past few years I have supplied this CAD profile to around 40 people, so I figure I may was well post a link to the actual file so I don't get so many PMs.

here is the link if anyone interested: Sump Baffle DWG

Download, print to scale on some thickish paper via any free CAD package. Cut out the template, test fit then transfer to a sheet of 1.2 - 2mm ally. Please report back if you have any issues.

I try to get the front and sides to seal tightly, and also deform the plate downwards a bit around the pickup hole to encourage the oil to drain in. I just sit the plate on the edge of a bit of timber so that the pickup hole overlaps around 20mm and gently tap it down with a hammer. On my engine I also used a bit of high temp silicon along the leading edge where the plate overlaps the sump to stop anything getting through under brakes. Just roughen up both the plate and sump with a bit of 80 grit so the silicon has something to bond to.

nitrodann

Madjak is one of the smartest and most hands on ************* I know, the dude cnc's his own cylinder heads.. at home, from his own program..

No amount of condescension will help.

Rick, have you tried a mechanical gauge to check?

Dann

bbundy

A couple times rebuilding my engine in the effort to get reliability at 300+hp I noticed rod bearings that weren't shot but weren't that happy either with little hot spots showing up. I was using either clevite or king bearings I had noted the oil pressure dip under long braking zones involving several downshifts. I also noted it would do it allot of the time as I was heal tow blipping the revs and sometimes not doing it that well and zinging up the rpm more than Id like. I did some baffle mods but also added an Accusump, went to ACL Race bearings. Not for sure what fixed it but between the baffle, Accusump, and ACL race bearings but no rod bearing issues showed up again. No more oil pressure dips in breaking either.

Madjak

Dann, cheers for the compliments... I figure it's such a simple DIY mod that releasing the CAD might help save someone the grief and $$$ of a spun bearing.

I run an oil pressure sensor directly hooked up to the ECU. The engine will go into limp mode if oil pressure dips below 25PSI for more than 1 second above 4000 rpm. I also run a Longacre Accutech SMI electrical gauge with 3 warning levels right in my face. If oil pressure drops below 35 PSI it will throw up a red LED and below 25 PSI the entire gauge will start flashing at me.

I think with any BP running above 8000rpm will dip oil pressure under decent braking G's with a stock pan. My guess is that 1/3rd of the oil is sitting up in the head or draining back down so there is only a small amount of oil left in the sump, allowing it to slosh forwards under brakes and so the pickup sucks in air. It's not a problem for a low rpm engine, but spin it up above 8000 whilst there is air in the oil and the bearings are going to start rubbing. I now run ACL race bearings, changed out every 4 hours engine runtime combined with frequent oil changes, my sump baffle and keeping the oil level at or slightly above 'full'. Last rebuild, the bearings were looking good with no spotting so I'm guessing I could extend the running time a bit longer now that I think my oiling issues are solved.

Pacobeagle

Anyone have the file? It's not coming up when I clink on the link. Thanks for the assist.

v/r,
J. Martinez

Madjak

Here is the CAD file: Sump Baffle