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Old 12-24-2014, 03:33 PM   #61
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Ill take a set.

I've had first hand experience with ISC's Engineering and fabrication skills. not that impressed. I have their Swaybars the bar arms and front brackets are which are good, a bit heavy but the pillow ball bearings are way better than urethane and I hand to correct the bend the arms a bit to get fit as intended. the end links were cheap garbage and I could do a better job on the rear swaybar mounting brackets with a dull hacksaw. I think they freehanded them with a cutting torch and an angle grinder. I made my own end links with aluminum rod ends and aluminum hex bar stock. also re made the rear swaybar chassis mounts using 5/8" aluminum rod ends and re-made the brackets out of 1/4" aluminum dropping about a pond of weight.
i went ahead and made another set for ya. ill try to get the spacers done over the weekend, ill pm you later.

"prototype" set available for sale at discounted price if anyone wants em.
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Old 12-24-2014, 06:28 PM   #62
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At that price I cant not buy. PM inbound
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Old 12-24-2014, 08:29 PM   #63
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Im interested in a set as well
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Old 12-24-2014, 10:41 PM   #64
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i made a pair for bob and it looks like leafy is going to grab the "protos". if i even have the time, itll be a couple of weeks before i can make any more.

so i guess we will see if there is enough interest over the next few weeks to have a run made. if/when i get enough requests ill go ahead and start getting quotes from machine shops. if not, i will just make another pair for you glade when i get time.
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Old 12-25-2014, 08:18 AM   #65
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I'm in no rush. The car is in storage until april.

Thanks, and merry Christmas!
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Old 12-28-2014, 03:13 PM   #66
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now im just showing off

these are mine, leafys and bobs(pending) sleeves and spacers.



and this is the articulation. it will be a little less installed because of the knuckle housing- RUCA interfearence, but this is more than plenty for our application


im going to pack em with grease and stuff some o rings in there in an attempt to seal them.
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rear knuckle upper spherical discussion-20141228_130137_zpsonxdl7cr.jpg   rear knuckle upper spherical discussion-20141228_130107_zps7ermuy77.jpg  
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Old 12-28-2014, 04:39 PM   #67
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Great work Sean! You have PM.
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Old 12-28-2014, 06:27 PM   #68
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Nicely done.

After abusing the heck out of my poly bushings, I definitely want to change them out. One that note, freaking rear bearing replacement. :(
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Old 12-28-2014, 06:41 PM   #69
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im going to start a tentative list of interested members for a group buy. if we get to 12 or more ill start getting serious and submit a drawing to a few shops and get a price. i have no idea what this will cost, but im guessing at least $100 for a set of sleeves and spacers.

1. glade
2. Gee Emm (AUS)
3. 90civichhb
4. TNTUBA
5. mcfandango
6. mrjones2
7. stoves
8. smite
9. hingstonwm
10. nota4re
11. nota4re
12. nota4re
13. Dustin1824
14. hrk
15.

Last edited by hi_im_sean; 01-08-2015 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 12-29-2014, 08:34 AM   #70
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I would be interested as well. Put me down.
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Old 12-29-2014, 12:14 PM   #71
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FWIW with urethane the bushing that always generated the worst amount of friction for me was the rear upper knuckle. This should fix that spot good.
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Old 12-29-2014, 12:52 PM   #72
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I'm in for a set.
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Old 12-29-2014, 01:25 PM   #73
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I'm in. Hopefully that craptastic piece of crap EP Miata rear UCA won't find another way to be a little bitch. I already have to stuff AN washers in to take up some slack. The delrin bushings originally included were the worst part.
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Old 12-29-2014, 02:48 PM   #74
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Not trying to derail the thread but do you have a build thread or anything on this? That sounds interesting and I would love to draw from your ideas.
It’s basically front and rear sway bar setup from these guys including front pillow ball sway bar brackets.

Miata Suspension

The rear sway bar 5/8 inch rod ends which weigh about a pound apiece were replaced with aluminum rod ends and hardware and the little plate brackets were also made out of aluminum.

Made my own Sway bar end links using 7/16” aluminum rod ends. Some brass tubing from the hardware store worked perfectly to make the Id fit perfectly with the stock size 10mm end fasteners at each end along with 10mm tapered washer rod end fastening hardware which fit nicely with the 7/16 rod ends. Jam nuts ant washers came from these guys

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3068

the setup wasn’t cheap but the aluminum Teflon rod ends have held up well for more than 5 years now. Front and rear swaybars pivot freely with almost no friction. By comparison the urethane swaybar bushings required with bent swaybars like Racing Beat Suck. My end links have lasted way longer than any others I have tried some whiteline ones I had prior basically wore out rattled and started to corrode within a few years. Got my rod ends for this here.

McMaster-Carr
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:28 PM   #75
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add me to the list - if you need someone to solidworks that up I can probably get that done (as others I'm sure).

If you want to run some prices through a cnc shop, check out these guys: Carter Machine & Design

I've sent a few work jobs his way and will certainly shoot straight on price / timing.
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Old 12-29-2014, 08:52 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by mrjones2 View Post
add me to the list - if you need someone to solidworks that up I can probably get that done (as others I'm sure).

If you want to run some prices through a cnc shop, check out these guys: Carter Machine & Design

I've sent a few work jobs his way and will certainly shoot straight on price / timing.
I do need someone to make a dwg/dfx for me, that would be awesome. Pm me if you're serious as I have a few tweaks to the "drawing".

I'll give those guys a go to of we end up doing this. If they can beat my local guys prices then we all benefit.
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:42 AM   #77
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Add me too please. In an effort to learn, how did you come up with sizes for the right fits given the tolerances? Machinery's Hand Book?

Are people finding that using this spherical in the rear knuckle with poly everywhere else a good combo?
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:49 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by smite View Post
Add me too please. In an effort to learn, how did you come up with sizes for the right fits given the tolerances? Machinery's Hand Book?

Are people finding that using this spherical in the rear knuckle with poly everywhere else a good combo?
a combination of experience, machinery's handbook, and how well i can hold a tolerance on the lathe.

also, every bearing manufacturer has install guidelines, including recommended bore and shaft sizes.

pg. 10. although the -T (ptfe lined) arnt listed and it says to call their engineering dept.
http://www.aurorabearing.com/pdf/technical-data.pdf

for a steel housing, the AIB-10 wants a 1.3113"-1.3119" bore, and im sure you can go tighter on the ptfe lined versions
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:54 PM   #79
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Any reason to use a machined shoulder instead of snap rings on both sides? Emachineshop is quoting me $280 for 10x 12L14 steel sleeve with two grooves in approximately the correct dimensions. $38 for bearings here and $15 for spacers here comes out to ~$333 for enough for 5 cars, which comes out to about $67 per buyer. No idea how good these bearings are, but they appear to be made in the US by Midwest Control.

Is there any way to attach the sleeves other than welding? Being able to use aluminum instead of steel would cut the price of the sleeve in half.
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Old 12-31-2014, 03:42 PM   #80
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Any reason to use a machined shoulder instead of snap rings on both sides? Emachineshop is quoting me $280 for 10x 12L14 steel sleeve with two grooves in approximately the correct dimensions. $38 for bearings here and $15 for spacers here comes out to ~$333 for enough for 5 cars, which comes out to about $67 per buyer. No idea how good these bearings are, but they appear to be made in the US by Midwest Control.

Is there any way to attach the sleeves other than welding? Being able to use aluminum instead of steel would cut the price of the sleeve in half.
loosing the shoulder is a great idea to reduce part complexity and cost. i was already going to get rid of the taper, and make it a straight bore on each side to facilitate sealing with a grommet or o-ring. i wouldnt use leaded steel though, it corrodes way to easy in my experience, although it machines like aluminum.

the spacers need to be a specific length to match the width of the original bushing. i didnt do the math on those, but unless they are exact, theyd have to be cut, or more spacers added. im not a washer stacking kind of guy.

i will let people get their own bearings. not everybody is going to want $80 aurora, and not everybody is going to want crap QA1, and most may want something in between.

im going to use retaining compound to hold mine in. discussed earlier in the thread. i wanted to keep them steel for those that wanted to weld them in.
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