I really like this idea. I've found re-packing my trailer bearings before every trip has gone a long way to help prolong their life.

 

Same principle as that, with that settup the spindle seals the bearring inner race and the cap seals one side of the hub, my tool does both so it has to be done with the hub out of the car.
After the initial changing out the grease the old way all it takes to re fresh your hub is a few pumps of the grease gun untill you see fresh grease coming out past the seal side and you are done.
i think that the only possible draw back is that this leaves more grease in the hub that the traditional re packing would, this may increase drag just a hair and i have noticed a little bit of grease getting pushed out past the grease seal after re packing and a track day...
i suppose that that could be solved by installing an air purge fitting to blow out the exess grease afterre packing.

 

Just received my set of Timken hubs from Rock Auto and they are going back. Looks like your box has 08F 15 =EE1 and mine has 09F 15 =EE1. Both are machined.

Im guessing this is the lot marking on the box?

 

So far all the made in the USA lots I've seen have been machined. Made in Japan has been good to go.

 

I bought a Raybestos 713152 non-ABS hub and can confirm that the machining is good. It looks just like the Moog and old-style Timken bearings. I haven't had time to do a side by side comparison of part numbers and stampings yet but I'll update this if I find anything interesting there. So far it looks like a good option at ~$75 shipped.

 

Did you check the stud hole diameters by any chance?

 

No, I opened the box, glanced at all the machined surfaces, and put it back in the box. I'll try to remember to post the diameter once I get around to doing studs.

 

Bought the same part # hub via Rockauto and got the upper & lower abs ring machined hub..

Found a SKF local supplier at $170, done with Rockauto and their randomly boxed hubs.

 

Damn. I just checked again and mine also has the cut for both abs rings. I must have only been looking for the sharp edge around the wheel studs when I checked the first time. The rear seal also looks lower quality on these than the Timkens and others... it's an all-rubber seal instead of the pressed on metal design.

The cuts for the ABS rings aren't a safety issue so I'll keep this hub as a spare, but I probably won't buy one of these again.

 

I gave up on RockAuto too. I guess I got what I paid for. I just picked up a set of Moog pn# 513152 from autozone for $110 retail. They look (and measure) exactly like the Timekn's already on the car. Funny thing is they also look like the correct Timken hubs in Sean's post too.

 

I just received Moog boxed front hubs from Autozone, still show NTN on the bearing covers, but last year's hubs were Made In Japan, this year's Made in China.

 

It is not Rock Auto that boxes hubs in what ever you order. Its likely that many of these companies are using the same suppliers. That's why you see the same backcuts on multiple companies hubs even with different bearings.

 

Did you get any takers on this? I'd buy one for sure. Wouldn't the excess grease be forced out pretty quick in operation? Or perhaps not....

 

no takers, the extra grease came out after running a few miles and getting a few heat cycles.

 

Found another reason to avoid the Raybestos: they suck to re-pack. The plastic retainers fully surround the ball making it just about impossible to get the ***** out, and they also use a bunch of weak little plastic tabs to hold the inner races in place. I broke a bunch of the tabs while knocking the inner races out, and then gave up while trying to remove the first ball. I just put it back together without changing the grease.

 

Really glad I found this thread. I have a set of the badly machined Timkens that were ready to go on. Now, they are going on eBay instead.

 

Hi all, thanks to some great info in this thread and elsewhere I have held off buying what I thought was going to be a good Hub.

Given the recent failures of Timken and poor machining on other brands, what is the current (July 2017) recommendation of brand and supplier that will deliver me a decent Hub that is not going to break and has quality bearings and seals?

Cheers
m

 

Put me on the list!

This is a Timken I put on sometime in early 2015. Ran on a TTE car on R7s 7-8 events a season.







I actually lucked out, all thing considered. Caught the heavy vibration soon enough to slow down to about ~35mph. This was my first session on a Sunday morning, felt some vibration in the Saturday afternoon sessions, but I had swapped to scrubs so I chalked it up to out of balanced wheel.

I need a new hub(lol), brake caliper bracket, brake line, and I'm going to put on my new spare rotors. I'll pull my fender back out, bleed the brakes, get it aligned, and hopefully be good to go.

 

^^ Bad machining? If so, why wouldn't you have changed them out much earlier given everything we know? If not . . . miraculous bearing life (bearings should have gone first)!

 

It was on the list to do, procrastination bit me hard on this one!