at least you pull away form him like crazy....but looks like you drive like a girl.

 

well damn. I just want to see what all that turbo stuff is all about. Yall go on and on about how great it is and i feel that i'm missing out on something.

WTB a ride in a turbo car

 

That power difference is why I'm a sissy and running in Mod instead of Unlimited

 

Needs more late apex (outside-inside) passing. Hustler left the door wide open.

 

I was being nice and waiting for a point. We had so much track time that day that I didnt mind chasing for a while. I was also trying to see if his lines in the bumpy corners were any less bumpy than the ones i was taking.

 

I'm on the least amount of boost I can run. I was over-driving the car to keep up . Hopefully things are better sorted this time around.

That track beat my car to ****, all kinds of **** came loose...but the manifold and DP held strong, lol.

 

I'm spinning that little MP62 to 13.5k rpm, there is not too much more in it before I exceed the 'recommended' rpm limit.

Maybe next year when I run Unlimited, I'll try to get more power.

 

Power makes a difference at ECR and TWS. At Hallett, MSR-C, and MSR-H I think you're making enough go fast to be competitive. I was the 3rd fastest last time on R-comps, you could have beaten me easily.

I'm trying to line-up a datalogger for next weekend because I need to buy a compressor, not a logger. I want to see how much grip the new suspension settings added. Last time at msr I could not break 1.18g's sustained.

 

No you are right. I keep forgetting about this point-to-pass stuff for the HPDEs.

Over-under is my favorite passing move. It works well in turn 6 entering the back straight at TWS. That is unless the other guy has twice as much power as I do, like SV-650 (me) versus liter bike (them)

 

Isn't that the "swedish shuffle"?

 

haha i have a SV650 too, just never had the ***** to track it. I cant imagine how much fun tracking a bike would be.

 

It's a little insane but it is ******* awesome. There is nothing like being leaned way over through a corner, hanging off the bike, dragging knee, passing a guy (or being passed by a guy) so close you could reach out and touch him.

The SV650 with a couple of suspension mods is a fantastic track bike. It can really rail through the corners and the flat powerband makes it easier to ride fast. The Formula 2 (F2) class in the CMRA Endurance series has been dominated by SV-650s since they came out. I still have mine, a first gen, full race bodywork, stripped, 41mm flatslides, cam swap, race exhaust, GSXR forks with radial brakes. I cannot bring myself to sell it yet.

A 600 has to really be ridden hard to get the most out of it, and liter bikes are just way too insane for me to ride to their limits on the track. Riding a liter bike around on the street is one thing. Trying to run in the low 1:40s on one at TWS is just nuts. I have great respect for those who can do it well. My fastest lap times at MSRC and TWS are on a SV650 even though I have tried hard to surpass those times on a 600 and a liter bike.

 

Hustler, did you ever try tann3r's lines while following him? Looked like the lines were pretty different on a few turns.

 

I HAVE to get my little brother to read this.

He's up to 6-8 track days a year, about to get licensed, and looking at his bike options. He gets dual use out of his '08 ZX-6R, but is investing heavily in gear/equipment as he gets better, and is convinced he needs two bikes.

His solution is to buy a ZX-10R for the street,and make the 600 a dedicated track bike. I keep trying to tell him a small, beater twin would be better, and make him a faster rider...but he LOVES that Ninja.

While I don't blame him, I'd prefer to see him enjoy his hobby at minimal cost and max enjoyment.

 

I did because I wanted some of this mystery grip...there is now way in hell I can go that tight, that fast. Hopefully things are about to change though.

I'm considering going to TDR today and getting softer rear springs too since I have a 10k/7k set-up currently.

 

What will your ratio be?

Everyone tells me to go up in the front on the Teins...but I'm thinking I'd rather go down in the back. I also think that they can't handle a stiff enough spring up front to really find a good FRC balance.

 

I'm going with the theory that you only need enough spring to keep you off of the bumpstops at your ride height. if you want to run really low you need stiffer springs.

There are of course other contributing factors. if you have limited bump travel you need stiffer springs. conversly, if you have alot of bump travel you can get away with less spring.

Similarly lighter cars so not require as much spring as heavier cars.

Another thing to consider is aero loading. once you add a wing/splitter you'll have to reevaluate your setup, especially in fast corners.

Typically with miatas your travel limitation is going to be the rears. I picked my rear spring rates to stay off the bumpstops and matched the fronts accordingly to create the balance i want.


gospeed: When I ran Tein Basics (7/6) I found that anything much under 12.25" in the rear would put you onthe bumpstops. It's be fine for the street, but on track I would roll on to them shortly after turnin. Also since the spring rates are so rear biased, I was not able to run a rear swaybar which exacerbated the problem. So basically what are your intentions for the car and what ride height do you plan to run?

 

Purely street use, with AutoX intentions I'll never realize.

I don't plan on being much below 12.5", but I'm having problems getting much higher than that.

I recently enjoyed a 450/250 setup I drove on for a few days (old Bilstein HDs I sold), and am convinced a similar ratio, maybe a little lower FRC ~400/250, would be nice.

I can't really find much in the way of lower rear springs, but have a line on some 8kg/mm springs for the fronts, as well as some 550lb/in QA1s. The first set wouldn't quite make enough difference I don't think (~448/336), and the second set (550s), while nearly the exact ratio I'm looking for, is probably too much for the damper.

 

What about picking up the 8kg/mm spring for the front and finding a 5kg/mm spring for the rear?

I do think that the 550lb/in spring would be too much for the damper as well.

 

brb, going to get part numbers off my springs.