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Old 07-30-2012, 02:50 AM   #1
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Default Splitter material--what do you use?

It seems that there are many options from front splitter material, and most of them might be good:

Jabroc
Aluminum
Fiberglass
Alumilite or Econolite
Tegris
PVC sheet

What is the consensus?
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:33 AM   #2
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plywood, 1/4 pine PTS (Plugged Touched and Sanded) or 1/4 Pine ACX or 1/4 maple. Make sure if you look at the end you see black lines in between the layers of wood, this indicated that they used waterproof glue. The regular glue that isnt black is water soluble.
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:53 AM   #3
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the shape is wrong, but nascar takeoffs (tegris) are cheap fwiw.
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Old 07-31-2012, 02:44 AM   #4
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Fiberglass is the default for the people around me now. I could see it being very effective, if there were a few layers of Kevlar on the bottom. I once saw an engine case guard for the Porsche 959 Paris Dakar racer--over 1" of pure Kevlar. They put that thing through the wringer.

I'm going to check out the Alumilite tomorrow, just because I've never seen it, but am leaning towards 1/4" PTS. Old Skool.
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Old 07-31-2012, 02:48 AM   #5
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I like 1/4" Luan or balsa or 1/8" nomex honeycomb skinned in vacuum bagged carbon fiber.
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:32 AM   #6
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12mm birchwood.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:22 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
12mm birchwood.
1/2" birch? Damn son that thing is huge.
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:12 AM   #8
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Alumalite
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:32 PM   #9
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ABS plastic with thin aluminum angle for extra structure. I used piano wire to support the part that sticks past the front lip. This allows it to flex up in case I hit something, but is stiff downwards to support the pressure.
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Old 08-01-2012, 10:19 AM   #10
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1/2" birch is a LOT stronger than I thought. I recently hit my trailer with it (long story). The splitter was slightly damaged, but it bent the mounting tabs on my subframe and broke the welds on the captured nuts! I want to replace it with 3/8", but am having trouble finding any, so I'm gonna try 1/4" and see how long it lasts, but its pretty flimsy. I want something that will break before the mounting points do... but maybe I'll just have to beef up the mounting points.

On the plus side, the 1/2" held up to endless beating on track curbing (the underside was covered in transferred red/white paint, haha!)
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Old 08-01-2012, 10:26 AM   #11
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In worcester every parking lot and drive way is a foot above street level and only has the width of the side walk to make that height different. My old one would kit on all of them, and I slammed it pretty hard a bunch of times. It just flexes up and springs back down. It took an abusive tow truck driver to break the thing, and then me being really pissed at the totaled car and stomping the ---- out of it to rip the splitter off to fit it on the uhaul trailer. I still couldnt break the thing all the way off and ended up wrenching it off.

Just make sure that if you run a bolt of screw through it to put fender washers. Or if you make it like my friend's csp car one, put a ---- load of rivets through the mood into the aluminum angle stock. I think there is a rivet like every couple inches.
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:05 PM   #12
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+1 for abs plastic
1/4" thick
Turn buckles at lip, bracing behind bumper like usual.

Durable,Lightweight, allows some flex while being rigid. Mine is stout but allows the lip to "F1 effect" at speed, and flex up when bottoming out.

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Old 08-01-2012, 06:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
1/2" birch? Damn son that thing is huge.
If you can't stand on it, it's not worth ----.
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:20 PM   #14
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Wasn't it cjernigan who said that 75% of the Conti Challenge cars had wood splitters?
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:40 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
If you can't stand on it, it's not worth ----.
I could stand on the 1/4 pine one I had. Like I said, I couldnt even break the thing off trying... Though it was held on with 11 5/16th studs with fender washers, and 4 of those went into the lower rad support.
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handy Man View Post
The splitter was slightly damaged, but it bent the mounting tabs on my subframe and broke the welds on the captured nuts! ...... I want something that will break before the mounting points do... but maybe I'll just have to beef up the mounting points.
Has anyone tried something like nylon bolts so the fasteners fail before you tear the bottom of the car off? Maybe that or smaller washers so the wood tears out at an impact before the metal bends too much? Maybe metal bolts from Harbour Freight? I can twist the heads off those with a box wrench...
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Old 08-02-2012, 01:32 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brainzata View Post
+1 for abs plastic
1/4" thick
Turn buckles at lip, bracing behind bumper like usual.

Durable,Lightweight, allows some flex while being rigid. Mine is stout but allows the lip to "F1 effect" at speed, and flex up when bottoming out.

I've seen some nice ABS splitters that have been routered so the edges have a clean finish...at least prior to any road work. I have a feeling they wouldn't last like birch in a track-only environment. Mother Nature strikes again.
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Old 08-03-2012, 04:29 AM   #18
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Sorry--could not resist. All kinds of splitter-type stuff on display.

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Old 08-03-2012, 11:39 AM   #19
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It was gay until I saw thepass' car.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:49 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brainzata View Post
+1 for abs plastic
1/4" thick
Turn buckles at lip, bracing behind bumper like usual.

Durable,Lightweight, allows some flex while being rigid. Mine is stout but allows the lip to "F1 effect" at speed, and flex up when bottoming out.

Birch plywood is significantly less dense (Lighter) and stiffer than ABS plastic.
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