stuff broken at the track
04-05-2010, 02:46 PM
#21
I run the oldschool radiator barn 2-row with ducting and an intercooler in front of it. I also let lots of air go under the intercooler and it gets pointed behind the fmic, to the radiator...I've never seen more than 190* on the track even in 95* in Tulsa. I have a crappy Canton oil cooler that's getting trashed because oil temps will not go below 260 on the track, so the rx7 cooler is going in.
stuff I've broken:
bearings, lots of them
clutch springs (exedy at stock power)
beat a hole in my exhaust with the rear end
brake melt-downs are endless
bent wilwood piston that scored the bore
leaky wilwood crap in general
a wire melted to a heat shield once
chra came loose and that was a bad day
turbo stud failure before I went to AF
had a new Azenis delaminate on stock power
lost an oil cap once
shredded an alternator belt once at stock power
clutch master died a few weeks ago
i've ripped the plastic out from under the car a few times during some agricultural expeditioning
stuff I've broken:
bearings, lots of them
clutch springs (exedy at stock power)
beat a hole in my exhaust with the rear end
brake melt-downs are endless
bent wilwood piston that scored the bore
leaky wilwood crap in general
a wire melted to a heat shield once
chra came loose and that was a bad day
turbo stud failure before I went to AF
had a new Azenis delaminate on stock power
lost an oil cap once
shredded an alternator belt once at stock power
clutch master died a few weeks ago
i've ripped the plastic out from under the car a few times during some agricultural expeditioning
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04-05-2010, 03:32 PM
#22
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Well, you should be more concerned with the Wilwood calipers than I was, Trackspeed brackets are fine. I'm going to take my fittings out and use a thread sealant (Resbond) on the brass and then put them in the oven at 200* and let them cure a bit to prevent leaking again. The only real work-around for this is to pony up the cash and get proper calipers that are not cheap.
Make sure that your Corrado rotors have vents all the way through the hat thingy, or use Racing Brake rotors.
It appears that a foreign object made an appearance between my pad and piston which caused things to go bad quickly.
Make sure that your Corrado rotors have vents all the way through the hat thingy, or use Racing Brake rotors.
It appears that a foreign object made an appearance between my pad and piston which caused things to go bad quickly.
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04-05-2010, 04:07 PM
#24
there was a test done awhile back with all the different coolant treatments including water wetter,purple ice,dei,some yellow stuff (can't remember the brand) and 50/50 mix. turns out the best stuff was the dei brand coolant additive, with redline water wetter in 2nd place. if someplace in your area has this get it. it was 6-10* cooler than water wetter depending on the conditions. (they tested this stuff at the track, steady highway, bumper to bumper, and low speed driving conditions)
Design Engineering DEI 040200 - DEI Radiator Relief - Overview - SummitRacing.com
this is what i use on some hard to cool cars (high boost 4g63 in a galant vr4, and b18 turbo swapped crx at the track)
it also has corrosion protection so you don't have to add any anti-freeze.
Design Engineering DEI 040200 - DEI Radiator Relief - Overview - SummitRacing.com
this is what i use on some hard to cool cars (high boost 4g63 in a galant vr4, and b18 turbo swapped crx at the track)
it also has corrosion protection so you don't have to add any anti-freeze.
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04-15-2010, 01:43 AM
#25
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I made sure I had decent instrumentation before I took my car to the track. I linearized my temp gauge and I modded and calibrated my oil pressure gauge with a VDO sender. I made sure to check the vitals going around the track. As they say, **** happens.
Things that happened and things I did:
Overheating -> PWR radiator, more distilled water and less coolant + watter wetter, seal radiator ducting,
Intake temps -> CAI + wrapped intake hose
Radiator hoses -> changed to silicone (I also change engine oil before trackday.)
Mushy brakes -> TDR Stainless brake lines
EBC Red Chunking Fail. -> Centric (spec miata) blank discs and Carbotech XP8/XP10
Boiled brake fluid -> Change to good brake fluid and bleed before trackday
Exceed Sport Bilsteins capability -> Tein Flex
Blow MP62 supercharger -> Back to NA (for now)
Bent wheels -> Replace
Cracked tupperware -> LOL 3 spins + entire day cleaning interior
I'm due for front hubs and more power.
Things that happened and things I did:
Overheating -> PWR radiator, more distilled water and less coolant + watter wetter, seal radiator ducting,
Intake temps -> CAI + wrapped intake hose
Radiator hoses -> changed to silicone (I also change engine oil before trackday.)
Mushy brakes -> TDR Stainless brake lines
EBC Red Chunking Fail. -> Centric (spec miata) blank discs and Carbotech XP8/XP10
Boiled brake fluid -> Change to good brake fluid and bleed before trackday
Exceed Sport Bilsteins capability -> Tein Flex
Blow MP62 supercharger -> Back to NA (for now)
Bent wheels -> Replace
Cracked tupperware -> LOL 3 spins + entire day cleaning interior
I'm due for front hubs and more power.
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04-19-2010, 06:29 PM
#27
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Majority of my issues were with tires and not having good enough ones..
I always took the day prior to the track event off work and went over everything on the car.
I did crack the rear rotors after installing new hawk hp+'s but that was my fault entirely for not adjusting them afterwards.
I always took the day prior to the track event off work and went over everything on the car.
I did crack the rear rotors after installing new hawk hp+'s but that was my fault entirely for not adjusting them afterwards.
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05-09-2010, 02:21 PM
#34
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+1 overheating
+ warped a exhaust manifold a little bit (was making hideous leak noises, but machining it flat fixed it)
+ melted some injector harness wires one time.. that took like a year to diagnose because the car would die and run badly at completely random inconsistent times and often run fine.
+ careful with those lug nut bolts when they're hot. Breaking a stud at the track isn't fun. Thank god most racers carry a few extras.
+ warped a exhaust manifold a little bit (was making hideous leak noises, but machining it flat fixed it)
+ melted some injector harness wires one time.. that took like a year to diagnose because the car would die and run badly at completely random inconsistent times and often run fine.
+ careful with those lug nut bolts when they're hot. Breaking a stud at the track isn't fun. Thank god most racers carry a few extras.
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05-10-2010, 07:50 AM
#35
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^^ good idea on the studs. I don't touch them when they're hot unless I have too. Heading to Road Atlanta next Monday, trying to gather some spare parts. Have several OEM 1.8 rotors (rear and front) in a HCL bath to clean off the rust, then have them resurfaced. I learned a lot with the turbo last track weenend. My biggest problem was loosening bolts on the exhaust housing. Have Nordlocks on them now, will see what happens. It got so hot I melted my dipstick, so will be making a heat sheild for it too...
I did have an instance in the left turn hairpin #5 at Barber when my car died, like it ran out of gas, but I had a half tank yet. Pulled off, waited 30sec and it fired right up, never happened again - I filled it up after every session after that.
I have a new pair of front hubs coming from Emilio, but after seeing the above rears, I'll be doing those too! Dam... how fast was he going when it sheared off??
I did have an instance in the left turn hairpin #5 at Barber when my car died, like it ran out of gas, but I had a half tank yet. Pulled off, waited 30sec and it fired right up, never happened again - I filled it up after every session after that.
I have a new pair of front hubs coming from Emilio, but after seeing the above rears, I'll be doing those too! Dam... how fast was he going when it sheared off??
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05-10-2010, 11:10 AM
#36
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05-16-2010, 10:52 AM
#40
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On my turbo, I've had these issues on track:
- coolant hose burst
- overheating
- brake fade
- turbo falling off many times
- exhaust rattle
On the street, I've:
- blown an engine
- cracked two oil coolers
- bend a front subframe at <30mph
- blown a tire
With the MaX5 however, we've had:
- play on inner tie rods making car self-steer
- coolant hose burst
- overheating
- brake fade
- turbo falling off many times
- exhaust rattle
On the street, I've:
- blown an engine
- cracked two oil coolers
- bend a front subframe at <30mph
- blown a tire
With the MaX5 however, we've had:
- play on inner tie rods making car self-steer
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