aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Possibly more if it rolls by you while you are upside down.

Keith@FM

iTrader: (1)

I've only tried it with the rear, but it was more expensive than that!

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Considering how often I replace front hubs and that these have regular tapered-bearings that can be easily cleaned, repacked and, if needed, swapped out . . . CHEAP! No-brainer CHEAP!

jmann

I just ordered a pair, can't wait to get rid of these ball brg unitized hubs. They are hoping to have 200 in by the end of the month.so as of now they are taking back orders.

cj9694

When you put it like that I guess grinding to a halt would be more expensive. I haven't really had a front bearing failure yet. 16-24 hr lemons races, we repack with good schaeffers grease and haven't had a catastrophic failure yet, we also aren't running supper sticky tires (lemons limit is 200 tread wear). I would actually say that the rears wear out faster then the fronts (produce play when car is jacked up and wiggled back and forth). I have seen enough videos to know I really dont want that to happen though...

SchmoozerJoe

iTrader: (2)

Hey now. Don't go bringing logic into this conversation!

HHammerly

iTrader: (3)

I just got this from Mazdaspeed today
https://mazdamotorsports.com/webapp/...m_medium=email

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Read a few posts up.

cordycord

iTrader: (2)

Yep, we got beat to the market. There are two main ways that a tapered roller bearing can be set up, user-adjusted and non-adjustable pre-tensioned. User adjusted is old school, you set the tension on the bearings and may need to reset them as they wear in. This is not rocket science, but our goal was a non-adjustable easy-peasy hub. The non-adjustable hub is pre-tensioned at the factory so that once it's run in, the tolerances are ideal for use. The issue is that it's starting to look like user-adjustable is the way to go for the Miata. We all are working with a very small hub in comparison to the loads generated on it. The ball bearing hubs fail because while they are more efficient than the roller bearings, they concentrate the load on a smaller area. That creates heat, wear, failure. Even with the tapered bearings, heat and wear still apply...just not as quickly.

The change in our hubs is simple--expand the gap slightly so that when the hubs are installed the bearings become adjustable. So a little time on a milling machine and a little time testing is what's next on the docket.

Art

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bean66

I need new hubs , are these available yet?

jmann

I have had an order in for 2 of them since april 6th from Mazdaspeed and just now got confirmation that they were shipped today. They were making the first batch, so depending on the list that had them preordered well determine if you can get them on this first batch, but they are being produced now, so I would call them.

DeerHunter

Disassembly/installation guide, in case anyone's interested:

Twibs415

iTrader: (8)

they are pretty cool but they need a safety backup in case someone doesnt tighten the screw just like every other tapered bearing hub in the oem sector.

jmann

No different then forgetting to strake the oem nut.

Twibs415

iTrader: (8)

I doubt an oem bearing setup is going to spin off 100+ft/lbs unless the bearing seizes or something really really wild. The stake is insurance in case something happens like the nut doesnt get tightened properly.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Wow those are not going to be set up correctly by 90% of people. Cool product though. I worry about those tiny Allen screws though...

cordycord

iTrader: (2)

That was our reason for putting the tapered roller bearings together with pre-set bearings. Unfortunately the first test has us going back to the drawing board...

Art

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k24madness

iTrader: (6)

Most of us OG's won't have issues with setting the bearing. IMHO he makes it waaaaay to complicated. I'll set it the same way as the 100's before just with different locking method. I would feel safer with a cotter pin as a backup though. Not sure there is enough room left to drill for one though.