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Tapered Roller Bearing Hubs--IT'S HAPPENING

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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 02:52 AM
  #101  
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So obviously then into the mix you need a track driver that just says "**** it" and drives ***** out. Hand raised.
Old Jul 9, 2016 | 02:53 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by Mobius
So obviously then into the mix you need a track driver that just says "**** it" and drives into walls. Hand raised.
Ftfy
Old Jul 9, 2016 | 10:44 AM
  #103  
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Poor Mobius. If it makes you feel better, I would get in a passenger seat with you any day.
Although I did go around the track with Aidan, so my judgement may be impaired.



Also, interested in the hubs, and would be willing to be your designated rusty beater tester.
Old Jul 11, 2016 | 09:05 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Ftfy
1/10. Your post bothers me. Not because your are giving me grief , I expect that. But this is mt.net. Your effort was weak, and does not reflect the high standards we expect here from our members. I mean, that wasnt even low hanging fruit , that **** was on the ground. You put less effort into that than you did avoiding the tire wall at Turn 2. We expect better from you.
Old Jul 11, 2016 | 09:07 PM
  #105  
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Low effort burns are the best burns. Simple changes for maximum burnage.
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 09:12 AM
  #106  
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Back to hubs?
Old Jul 12, 2016 | 11:49 AM
  #107  
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Waiting for more test results. I am all in on these hubs. The solve a real problem.
Old Jul 17, 2016 | 08:23 PM
  #108  
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Well done sir! I look forward to getting my hands on both of these!
Old Jul 20, 2016 | 11:58 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by cordycord
Front and rear hubs, sans studs. Tapered Roller Bearing.

New rear hub is thicker than O.E., has a nice flare at the root, and is also Tapered Roller Bearing.
The Rear hub is thicker, has a nice transition at the root of the flange and also uses a tapered roller bearing.

The hubs came in yesterday and went out for testing today. The test will be for general use, temperature and overall track ability. The goal for the front hub is safety, longevity, and something that doesn't need servicing every season. The rear hub has a thicker flange with a nice transition at the root and also uses tapered roller bearings. We're looking at more than one spline type in order to accommodate the V8's.
So Cord, lets talk 5x114.3 bolt pattern for Catfish owners and future (Me) Catfish owners. This is EXACTLY what is needed to open up the wheel selection for the catfish. The catfish chassis/body looks to have the ability to fit 275 width tires wrapped around a 17x10 wheel. In a 4x100 bolt pattern, race wheels (flow formed) are in very short supply in a 17 inch wheel, most being gravity or low pressure cast wheels.
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Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:28 PM
  #110  
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Fix basic track Miata issues FIRST!! K? Thnx.
Old Jul 21, 2016 | 12:36 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by twothirdsCobra
So Cord, lets talk 5x114.3 bolt pattern for Catfish owners and future (Me) Catfish owners. This is EXACTLY what is needed to open up the wheel selection for the catfish. The catfish chassis/body looks to have the ability to fit 275 width tires wrapped around a 17x10 wheel. In a 4x100 bolt pattern, race wheels (flow formed) are in very short supply in a 17 inch wheel, most being gravity or low pressure cast wheels.
I'm currently in Puerto Vallarta so sunscreen is a much higher priority for me than hubs. 😎

The new 17" 4x100 offerings from 949 and others give more options for wheels and tires. Personally I think the best Catfish setup for track is probably an uber-wide 15" rim with Hoosiers. The car sits 1" lower when on 15"s, and the unsprung weight savings over 17"s can be even 30lbs.
Old Jul 21, 2016 | 07:47 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by cordycord
I'm currently in Puerto Vallarta so sunscreen is a much higher priority for me than hubs. 😎

The new 17" 4x100 offerings from 949 and others give more options for wheels and tires. Personally I think the best Catfish setup for track is probably an uber-wide 15" rim with Hoosiers. The car sits 1" lower when on 15"s, and the unsprung weight savings over 17"s can be even 30lbs.
But 15s only go up to 275.
Old Jul 21, 2016 | 08:21 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by Leafy
But 15s only go up to 275.
Bob or Andrew or Emilio or Keith or a host of other people must know....there's got to be a point of diminishing returns with tire size, where any wider size will slow the car down unless you've got the aero to support it. The Catfish has never had a wing or splitter, so we don't know how fast even 235's will take us.
Old Jul 21, 2016 | 10:10 PM
  #114  
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I don't think it's aero so much as power. Wider tires add grip and also add drag (both from aero and rolling friction), whether you can make enough use of the extra grip to justify the loss in straight-line speed from the increase in drag is going to depend on how much power you have (well, and also on the course).

--Ian
Old Jul 21, 2016 | 10:11 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by cordycord
Bob or Andrew or Emilio or Keith or a host of other people must know....there's got to be a point of diminishing returns with tire size, where any wider size will slow the car down unless you've got the aero to support it. The Catfish has never had a wing or splitter, so we don't know how fast even 235's will take us.
If wider tires make you slower, you dont have enough horse power.
Old Jul 21, 2016 | 11:29 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by Leafy
If wider tires make you slower, you dont have enough horse power.
The power needed to overcome a 275/35 and actually go faster than the same car with a 245/40 is somewhere in the 325-350whp ballpark. If you have the funds to put a 350whp Catfish together, and you have the funds to consistently run a tire wider than the 275/35 that's already available, you probably have the funds to have some custom 16x12s made and run the car on Hoosier radial slicks. Putting something like a 285/30 on the car isn't going to help because it raises the chassis so much.
Old Jul 21, 2016 | 11:46 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by Savington
The power needed to overcome a 275/35 and actually go faster than the same car with a 245/40 is somewhere in the 325-350whp ballpark. If you have the funds to put a 350whp Catfish together, and you have the funds to consistently run a tire wider than the 275/35 that's already available, you probably have the funds to have some custom 16x12s made and run the car on Hoosier radial slicks. Putting something like a 285/30 on the car isn't going to help because it raises the chassis so much.
I've been drinking, which affords me excellent clarity to interpret Savington's post for the masses.

Bitches be dreaming, actually make the gawddamn power and put it to the ground before you worry about not having enough tire with a 275
Old Jul 22, 2016 | 01:22 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by Savington
The power needed to overcome a 275/35 and actually go faster than the same car with a 245/40 is somewhere in the 325-350whp ballpark. If you have the funds to put a 350whp Catfish together, and you have the funds to consistently run a tire wider than the 275/35 that's already available, you probably have the funds to have some custom 16x12s made and run the car on Hoosier radial slicks. Putting something like a 285/30 on the car isn't going to help because it raises the chassis so much.
I have the funds and everything else needed for the 350+ WHP that will warrant this wheel/tire size. What I don't want to do is spend $3000.00 for a set (I'll need a min. of 2 sets) of forged wheels in a 4x100 bolt pattern when there are plenty of 5x114.3 bolt patterned wheels that will meet my needs at a significantly lower cost.
Old Jul 22, 2016 | 06:13 PM
  #119  
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1 person does not a business case make. Honesty, the right wheels are probably a better option. Look into some of the custom 3 piece wheels (Jongbloed, etc). You can probably find some for around $2k per set. Probably cheaper than a 1 off set of hubs
Old Jul 22, 2016 | 07:00 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by Savington
The power needed to overcome a 275/35 and actually go faster than the same car with a 245/40 is somewhere in the 325-350whp ballpark. If you have the funds to put a 350whp Catfish together, and you have the funds to consistently run a tire wider than the 275/35 that's already available, you probably have the funds to have some custom 16x12s made and run the car on Hoosier radial slicks. Putting something like a 285/30 on the car isn't going to help because it raises the chassis so much.
For Autocross in the prepared classes I'm pretty sure the tires for 16X11/16X12 will be faster even at lower HP figures. Also fit nicely on the ND I think with just flares maybe. NA/NB needs serious massaging of inner fenders to maintain a decent ride height and not rub the **** out of hard surfaces everywhere even though the 23.5" OD isn't that much too tall. I think a Catfish can fit taller tires without the inner finder problems.

Last edited by bbundy; Jul 22, 2016 at 07:10 PM.



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