mine is 1997 e150 btw, just for reference. I did read about some possible fixes for it, but I am not sure its really worth it.

And that's fine, I figure realistically I'll only tow 6-7 times a year. And not an enclosed.

So theoretically the EcoBoost is the better choice, but I'm dubious about their longterm durability given all the Intercooler/stalling problems. And that's ignoring the MASSIVE amount of heat (from always being in boost while towing) that is likely to cook all the wiring/hoses underneath the hood.

It is the funniest thing to me. Diesel and Gas have been converging and will continue with that trend due to emissions. Ask people what the best engine possible is and the answer is turbo diesel. Then create a gas engine with turbo diesel properties and everyone is worried about the fancy turbo solution.

IIRC the car is 13'. My 7x16 has enough room to pull in (side mirrors must be pushed in) with enough room for a tool chest up front, a walking path in front and a walking path behind where I put my ezup. I don't think a 7x12 would work and a 7x14 might be asking for punishment. 360 Degree Rotating Recessed Pan Fitting Tie Down Ring are a nice addition.

Ecoboost stalling is only in certain conditions. Of which I have never met. Really worried, there are a couple aftermarket solutions that prevent issue. I bent one of the tubes getting my bumper off after an "opps". I'll eventually be swapping the factory intercooler out with a Full-Race one eventually because of it. Doesn't leak but now I have a decent excuses.

It is hard to hear but I dont think the engine was in high boost while towing the travel trailer (except a few instances). If you never give it lots of throttle, you can't exactly get a bunch of boost. No datalog but my foot isnt buried while towing.

I was doing some research on the EcoBoost V6's a few months ago and for the most part people seem very pleased with them. They are reaching the advertized fuel economy numbers with normal (not hyper mileing) style driving and no complaints of lost of towing capacity. Given I drive my '97 F150 just about every day, the bump in MPG would be a great bonus to having a new truck.

They provided a fix Oct '12 for the intercooler issue. So far no problems with my '13. The weekday mileage isn't too much worse than my MS3 was and I can always get home from the track. (or go fetch parts while at the track).

I've been noticing this too and think it's pretty funny. As evidenced by this forum, a turbo gas motor should do just fine for towing if it's set up well and does a good job of managing heat.

I know this will result in many :diaf: responses, but I've been having bad dreams of a 2001+ 4cyl 5sp ford ranger with homebrew turbo as a DD/tow rig. The 4cyl in those is just a 2.3l Mazda MZR. I started looking at them out of curiosity the other day and realized that brakes/drivetrain/suspension is basically identical on all the Rangers... the engine is the only thing that drops tow rating from ~6000lb to ~1500lb.

I should turbocharge my Tundra. No wait, it already makes plenty of power to tow a Miata.

I purchased a new, dual axle [no brakes] 7'x16' steel/wood trailer for less than $2000 from a company on the WV-OH. I will not post the company's name here for fear of being cited for advertising [even thought I have no relationship with the company]

here is a link to a photo: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater

Yes, you bought it new. I bought a 7x16' wood/steel single axle brake trailer for sub $2000 here. I am just saying some of these used prices listed here (ie a good aluminum trailer for $1600 or a steel one for <$1000) are probably region specific or don't exit (my cousin's ex-boyfriend's ex-girlfriend's step-mother's dog...). the difference between a used trailer and a new trailer is just not worth it in the end, unless you can get one of these magical deals.

And the improvement from a steel trailer to an aluminum trailer is probably not worth it for someone on a budget. The way I looked at it is I could spend 2x (approx. $2500) on an aluminum trailer and save maybe 400-600 lbs total (if even that) or I can spend $2500 on a tow vehicle thats in better shape. The difference between a 8k truck and a 6k truck (locally) is significant. I am talking about years newer, mileage less, and one step up in engine. Any one of those will get you better towing capacity for the most part.

I just got lucky and found a low mileage v8 conversion van. My only complaint is the creaking and the horribly murky steering. It stops great, and I can easily maintain whatever speed I want within reason.

No-brakes = no go up here. Must have brakes on both axles to be legal to register. And I wouldn't want to trailer otherwise.

As for weight (not a concern for a 1/2 ton), a 16' wood/steel trailer is approx 2100lbs vs say 1240 for an Aluma brand.

Not always. I keep seeing some of the steel trailers in the 1400 pound range, like econoline. And If you drop the big money on the bolt together trailex those are like 900. But the welded trailex are like 1600 for aluminum. It really is all over the place and annoying. :vash:

Sorry I should have included I was comparing a steel wood Bri-Mar. Both trailers I mentioned have dual 3500lb axles with electric brakes.

Still, I dont understand it. My roomate's steel and wood trailer is 12xx pounds. But is from the early 90's and has 3500lb axles and brakes on both. The lightest steel trailers I can find are the all steel, open deck econoline trailers (14xx), carmate for almost the identical looking trailer is (18xx), big tex is like (20xx). And if you took the labels off you'd swear they were the exact same trailer.

Different wall thickness for the steel. I just started messing around in CAD designing a lightweight miata-sized single axle trailer, and changing from 4x2x.188" steel tube to 4x2x.25" adds almost 250lb. For a heavy duty trailer with a lot of tubes like the big tex, that could easily become a 500+lb difference.

Anecdotal on towing with a turbo but I pulled a 6' enclosed with my MSM for two seasons. The first year I was pulling at ~65 in 6th gear and getting mid/high teens for MPG. Watching the boost and AFR, I was always tipping into boost and dumping fuel. At some point I tried pulling in 5th at the same ~65mph which increased the revs (3.63 gears) but dropped the MAP by 8 or 10 inhg and brought the AFR back to reasonable levels. I got ~24 towing at that point which is within 5 or 6 mpg the car got at ~70 cruising without the trailer.

I don't know shit about the Ecoboost but it stands to reason you could get significantly different mileage towing with a gas turbo based on gear and cruising RPM selection. Put in a boost gauge at least and consider a wideband and see for yourself. :dealwithit:

Does anyone have any input on the 07-10 Chevy 1500s? I'd prefer a new-gen Ford, but the less I spend on a tow vehicle/DD the bigger my track budget.

I'm weary after my buddy had a massive problem with the cylinder shutdown technology. The solenoid started puking oil everywhere and running rough. Essentially when the system goes, a new oil pan/pickup/pushrods/etc all have to be replaced, basically rebuild the engine.

His mechanic seemed to intimate that it wasn't an uncommon problem, the quoted fix was $6k. They did some hackjob fix for super cheap so he could trade it in the next day.

After searching for a 5.3 Z71 for awhile, I found a 08 RCSB Hemi with 50k miles for 14k. After 10k miles, I've had zero issues and its towed a few 4-7k trailers. It gets 15mpg in town and 20-21 on the highway with DOD turned off and OEM 20's.