<br />
<br /><br />
<br />Hmmm. I'll google some. Seems like something easy to do. What about the epoxy coming off?

 

I was worried about the epoxy coming off so I took a punch and placed two punch indents right on the edge of the threaded end of the screw that protrudes on the other end of the throttle plate. This deformed the screw just enough that it would not be able to back out if it did loosen up. I don't know if anyone else has tried this.

 

I've never heard of the screws backing out. My understanding is that vibrations cause the screws to break, at which point the broken off screw heads get sucked into the motor and **** **** up. The epoxy doesn't prevent the throttle body from failing, it just contains the screw heads long enough for you to get the motor shut down.

I epoxied my TB in 2012 with cheap 5-minute epoxy and it's still holding fine. I just prepped the surface with brake clean and then slathered a thin layer over the screws down onto the plate. I was paranoid about it for a while and kept checking it, but it's been fine. I even tried peeling the edges but they're holding strong.

 

That's how you stake a gas key on an AR-15.

blah blah blah edit- apparently this issue has been done to death by emilio and he uses epoxy. Even jb weld, which I was going to suggest, has already been tried with inferior results.

 

Yes. that is a solution. But not a cheap one.

 

The screw is only part of the issue. The shaft also likes to snap at the threaded hole for the screw (weakest point in the shaft). A glob of epoxy reinforces the shaft as well as locking the screw in position. It's a crude fix, but it's simple and works.

-Ryan

 

Spoonfeed pictures?

 

Ill reiterate, the issues isn't the screw backing out, but the heads popping off. I have yet to see a pic of a broken shaft or broken screw where the threaded section(s) wernt still in the shaft.

 

Thanks. Somehow Miataturbo.net got blocked at work and i fail at searching on my phone.

 

I was going to call you a lazy noob. Check the edit, 1 pic added.

 

Somehow the whole internet brands network got banned. Like in the past week. I can't get on my ford truck forum either. I hope its a mistake.

 

In my experience, the IT department blocks the sites using the most bandwidth that arnt business related.

Now who do you think is using that bandwidth?

 

1st job out of college and already using the internet for non-work stuff?

 

<br />
<br />That's why they give you internet right?

 

An engine. Lasted about 350 laps. My brakes and tires were still good…

 

This is an awesome list! Thanks, Emilio. As someone interested in getting some track time in my turbo Miata I decided to go through it for my build to spot mistakes. I assume this list is more for a dedicated race car rather than street/track car.

Stuff GohCart did right and wrong

• No hood vents - Singular
• Hood vents in the wrong location, i.e behind #3 cylinder - Singular
• No full coverage undertray - Stock tray???
• Radiator core not 100% sealed for air leakage around it - Sealed
• No reroute - One weak area of my build, me thinks.
• #6 or #5 plugs - I believe I run #7
• Stock coils - LS coils
• NA batch fire ignition - Oops, still on batch.
• NA6 batch fuel - NA8 here
• Pump gas of 92 or lower octane - I run a blend on track to get ~95ish
• Non-Inconel manifold studs - Is this manifold to head? Or manifold to compressor?
• OTS BEGI or FM manifold w/o turbo support brace - Where I can learn about this?
• OEM Garrett internal wastegate and >10psi instead of VTA - Vent to atmosphere? Not sure I follow this, I run around 13psi peak.
• Too small VTA BOV - I can run VTA - so I take I should be?
• Intake pipes without beads - Mine all have beads
• Intake pipes held on with ordinary worm drive hose clamps - I use the ones FM sends - they are not a traditional worm drive.
• Throttle plate not epoxied - Oops.
• Solid motor mounts broke other stuff on car - MS Mounts
• OEM diff mounts - broken exhaust - MS Mounts
• No V-Band in DP - Oops
• OEM Rods - Manley
• OEM pistons - Supertech 8.6:1
• OEM oil pump - Boundary Stage 2
• No clutch bypass for starting leading to toasted thrust bearings - ??? Not sure I have every seen this mod.
• No oil cooler - Got one - Setrab
• No trans cooler - Never seen this as needed - who knew?
• No diff cooler - Never seen this as needed - who knew?
• 5 speed transmission (went through at least four I bet) - Six Speed here
• Rubber lines for turbo oil and/or coolant - Braided oil and coolant is hardline
• Restrictive tube/Fin I/C from big name American company instead of superior Chinese Bar/Plate off ebay (who knew) - Just an FM IC
• Piggy back ECU - Haltech
• >13psi with NA cam/crank angle sensor + ragged edge tune = det - I am right at 13psi peak - so far the CAS has been OK.
• No WB02 - AEM
• WB02 in wrong place - Probably should be closer to the compressor.
• No EGT - People still use these? I have one, but have never thought to use it I have a spot for it too...hmm.
• Coolant temp sensor at front of head - At rear.
• Heater bypass w/o restrictor - My heater is still plumbed.
• OEM 16psi rad cap instead of 19psi Koyo/Stant - I run 16
• Too few/misaligned exhaust hangers = cracked DP - Custom exhaust hung with poly hangers
• Bad welds, cracked DP or exhaust - None that I know of yet
• 5th injector in manifold - Nope
• RX7 460cc injectors - FF640s
• RC engineering injectors
• No det cans used during dyno tuning - Can't really say what my tuner used, but he has a good rep.
• Boost turned up after dyno, then raced - Nope
• Boost turned up way past highest efficiency island on compressor map - Nope
• Zero safeties built in to ECU (overboost,EGT,WB02,coolant pressure etc) - I use as many safeties as possible.
• Insufficient heat shielding for heater hoses, master cylinder, trans tunnel - This could probably be better, I have the FM heat shield, DEI wrap on silicone heater hoses, and gold foil on MC.
• More than one change in intake pipe cross section dimension between compressor-I/C or I/C- TB. - I run the FM silicone IC pipes.
• Under drive pulleys - Nope
• Road tune only for WOT/peak boost only (no steady state part throttle dyno tune) - Road tune was for drivability, starting, idle, etc.
• $25 junkyard turbos - Garret 2560r
• Non-water cooled turbo - Nope.

Non-engine stuff done wrong

• Koni yellows with GC coilovers - Xidas
• Spec Miata suspension - Nope
• OEM rubber suspension bushings - MS bushes all around - technically OEM, but it still a street car.
• NA6 diff - MSM diff
• Open diff
• more rear camber than front - Nope
• Anything less than 9" wheels - 15x9
• 205/50/15's - 225s
• Zero front aero but tons of drag/lift inducing cooling holes in vain attempt to stop overheating - Just a GV lip right now
• No wing - No wing - although considering it!
• No hard top - Got one
• Bolt in cage - Guilty here - just Hard Dog double diagonal
• NA8 brakes with Hawk Blues - 11" Goodwin kit
• OEM bone stock hubs - Bought the Centric hubs form 949
• OEM end links - 949
• A/C components still in car - long gone
• >2400lb comp weight - Probably with my fat *** in it!

 

That list is 11 years old. Both me and the Miataverse have learned a lot since then. Fully possible to miss half the stuff on that list and still be sorta reliable on track. Big variable is the driver. Go easy enough and an FM kit on an otherwise stock NA8 will survive an HPDE. Race pace for an enduro with a quick driver is an entirely different proposition.

 

Most comprehensive list I've seen. Not sure if you did so, but ranking the list might be kinda cool.

 

Hard to to without oversimplifying too much. Some items on that list are overkill for a low boost, beginner group HPDE toy on E85. Others are must have for a pump gas burning enduro car or E85 fueled high boost time attack car.
IOW, no easy answers. Gotta do homework for your usage, fuel, budget.