What do YOU use to tow your track car?
Wow, maybe I should increase my zone of searching. That seems like a decent deal for sure. The boards look fresh, I'd check wiring to make sure everything worked, wheel bearings, etc. There's not too much to look for with an open trailer.
Look at the bottom of the wood deck for rot/mold/etc, and expect it to need brakes and bearings. Look at the date code on the tires -- older than 5-7 years and you'll want to replace them. It's probably also got a 15-year-old breakaway brake battery which is now completely shot. If it needs all of those then you're better off buying a brand new one for $2500.
--Ian
--Ian
At $1000 I'd ask if it was stolen. I paid $1925 brand new for a very similar trailer and sold it 5 years later for $1800. If the wood is as good as it looks in the photos, the only thing that would stop me from buying that would be structural corrosion. Breakaway batteries are cheap, axles are cheap, wiring is cheap.
Look at the bottom of the wood deck for rot/mold/etc, and expect it to need brakes and bearings. Look at the date code on the tires -- older than 5-7 years and you'll want to replace them. It's probably also got a 15-year-old breakaway brake battery which is now completely shot. If it needs all of those then you're better off buying a brand new one for $2500.
--Ian
--Ian
At $1000 I'd ask if it was stolen. I paid $1925 brand new for a very similar trailer and sold it 5 years later for $1800. If the wood is as good as it looks in the photos, the only thing that would stop me from buying that would be structural corrosion. Breakaway batteries are cheap, axles are cheap, wiring is cheap.
You can buy both axles brand new for ~$225, including a pair of brake shoe plates and drums. Bearings are like $15 per corner. If the wheels aren't messed up, good trailer tires are ~$100/ea and they will be better than the crap that comes on new trailers today.
Basically, you can afford to buy that trailer, gut it of all moving parts, buy new everything, and you'll end up with a better-than-new trailer for less money.
Basically, you can afford to buy that trailer, gut it of all moving parts, buy new everything, and you'll end up with a better-than-new trailer for less money.
You can buy both axles brand new for ~$225, including a pair of brake shoe plates and drums. Bearings are like $15 per corner. If the wheels aren't messed up, good trailer tires are ~$100/ea and they will be better than the crap that comes on new trailers today.
Basically, you can afford to buy that trailer, gut it of all moving parts, buy new everything, and you'll end up with a better-than-new trailer for less money.
Basically, you can afford to buy that trailer, gut it of all moving parts, buy new everything, and you'll end up with a better-than-new trailer for less money.
Will do, this one sort of caught me off guard. I am just looking to keep up with the local market, but at this price I don't exactly want to pas if this one checks out. I have the cash on hand and the guy gets home at 6pm tonight. So I am hoping to swing by shortly after that to check it out and possibly buy it.
(I tend to assume that any wood-deck trailer on Craigslist needs new decking).
--Ian
That deal Lars found is ridiculously good. I've been looking for awhile and never found something like that.
I finally bought my own trailer! 18' wood, 3' dove tail.

Paid $2k for it, would of been happier at $1800, but I guess that's typically the case. Bearings,hubs, tires, and brakes were done last fall, that was it's biggest selling feature for me. The tire rack and tool-box was a plus.
I'll be giving her a go this weekend to CMP.
I finally bought my own trailer! 18' wood, 3' dove tail.

Paid $2k for it, would of been happier at $1800, but I guess that's typically the case. Bearings,hubs, tires, and brakes were done last fall, that was it's biggest selling feature for me. The tire rack and tool-box was a plus.
I'll be giving her a go this weekend to CMP.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,784
Total Cats: 42
From: Redwood City, CA
These prices for trailers are making me want to buy a tow vehicle again. I'm gonna want to replace my camry at some point anyway, might as well get something to tow to the track with.
W E W.
W E W.
Where do you attach the tie-down's on the Miata?
In the rear, I still have the OEM loops, as well as a track tow-hook. Baby teeth gone from the front. One track tow-hook.
In the rear, I still have the OEM loops, as well as a track tow-hook. Baby teeth gone from the front. One track tow-hook.
Wheel straps work well on basically every car, as long as you make sure the line of the strap intersects the wheel center.
Also where do you buy these tire straps at? I have not looked for any yet, but would be nice to know where to look that are good sources, so I don't buy some cheap crappy ones.
I've used these straps a few times now:
I'd like for them to be a little longer because the excess strap doesn't clamp into the hood/trunk like others I've used. So I end up rolling the excess up and put zip-tie around it. I need to find a better reusable method for the excess.
I noticed when I use the straps latched onto the tow-hooks on the car they always end up a little loose every time I stop when I do the walk-around. But I haven't had the straps get consistently loose when I use the wheel-strap.
I'd like for them to be a little longer because the excess strap doesn't clamp into the hood/trunk like others I've used. So I end up rolling the excess up and put zip-tie around it. I need to find a better reusable method for the excess.
I noticed when I use the straps latched onto the tow-hooks on the car they always end up a little loose every time I stop when I do the walk-around. But I haven't had the straps get consistently loose when I use the wheel-strap.







