Originally Posted by Ski_Lover
(Post 1009651)
A respected race car builder / shop owner here in the bay area told me the original hubs that came on the Miata seem to live significantly longer than the OEM replacements. He recommended I replace mine every two years and also said regular racers should do it every year.
The rears would be better new if the metallurgy was know to be of the same or better quality from 20 years ago. That is debatable to. |
Is it worth it to repack the fronts if you're going to replace them every 150 hours?
I'm just thinking of what sort of schedule I should use for "wear" items. |
The failures being discussed are structural failures on the rears. Generally the fronts are replaced much more often for bearing failures/maintenance so the hubs themselves have cooked races and are tossed before they have a chance to break.
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Are there known failures in cars that don't run stickier-than-RA1 rubber?
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Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 1009764)
Are there known failures in cars that don't run stickier-than-RA1 rubber?
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Since we're on the subject, how often do you guys replace ball joints? My front uppers have like 250 hours on them. lol
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Originally Posted by mr_hyde
(Post 1009744)
The failures being discussed are structural failures on the rears. Generally the fronts are replaced much more often for bearing failures/maintenance so the hubs themselves have cooked races and are tossed before they have a chance to break.
I am trying to do a Cost/Benefit of buying front hubs, replacing the ball bearings with better spec'd ones, and repacking with AMSoil or just replacing with Timken branded hubs straight from the box whenever I do the rear hubs. |
Great now every time I go around turn 17 at Sebring I'm going to be thinking about my hub failing. Lucky it didn't happen earlier in the corner and you ended up in the wall.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1009778)
I wouldn't consider "I use street tires" a reasonable excuse to avoid swapping these - the parts are too cheap and the failure mode too catastrophic. In addition to the hub, I lost a wheel, three tires (flatspotted the fronts), an exhaust system, and wrecked the rear bearing, and I got extremely lucky.
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wow that was a good one. doing that in the wrong spot could easily mean a totaled car, or worse
quick list of damaged/ destroyed parts? |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1009778)
In addition to the hub, I lost a wheel, three tires (flatspotted the fronts), an exhaust system, and wrecked the rear bearing, and I got extremely lucky.
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1 Attachment(s)
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1009596)
Every ~150 track hours is a safe estimate. You could probably safely push that to 200 hours, but the failure mode is so catastrophic that it's not worth the risk. ~150 hours is about one year of racing for me. (25-30 events a year, 5-6 hours a weekend)
Food for thought. |
How old was the hub when tracking started? Mileage/calendar age.
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Originally Posted by Mobius
(Post 1011715)
How old was the hub when tracking started? Mileage/calendar age.
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You guys are not making me feel better about the rusty old hubs that are stuck on the rear axles I got as part of a torsen swap. Any tricks to getting them off so I can check them out? You know besides running them on track until they fail...
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Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 1011818)
You guys are not making me feel better about the rusty old hubs that are stuck on the rear axles I got as part of a torsen swap. Any tricks to getting them off so I can check them out? You know besides running them on track until they fail...
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Big impact gun + 10-ton press will get the axles out. Press the old bearing out, press a new one in, press a new hub with new studs into that.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1012957)
Big impact gun + 10-ton press will get the axles out. Press the old bearing out, press a new one in, press a new hub with new studs into that.
--Ian |
Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 1011818)
You guys are not making me feel better about the rusty old hubs that are stuck on the rear axles I got as part of a torsen swap. Any tricks to getting them off so I can check them out? You know besides running them on track until they fail...
You can try to separate them, but my advice would be to just buy another axle and knuckle, and a new hub and wheel bearing. Don't forget anti-seize on the axle splines. |
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