Originally Posted by njn63
(Post 1015188)
You can also use the f-body ARP studs in place of the 90-93s. Somehow it's significantly cheaper for 5 f-body studs than it is for 4 Miata ones.
Part number is 100-7708. |
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 1015841)
Interesting from Summit 5 of the F-body studs are $13.82 and 4 Miata studs are $26.67. .509 knurl versus .507 probably close enough. 2.5" long instead of 2.75". why are they so much cheaper I wonder.
Different number of "splines" on the knurl so you have to persuade the F-body ones a bit more than the Miata specific ones during install. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1014656)
Mazda's front hubs are reboxed NTNs, available for ~$100 in a few places. You can occasionally find Timkens for ~$65, and those are reboxed NTNs as well, but the Timkens may or may not have the ABS ring in the correct place and availability is spotty. I have yet to experiment with anything cheaper than the $65 Timkens.
Originally Posted by Spookyfish
(Post 1015747)
I am having the hubs sanded down very slighly (2/100th) so you can actually slip them in and out of the bearings by hand, without destroying the bearings. I had that done a while ago so I'm not replacing bearings this time. |
Originally Posted by cucamelsmd15
(Post 1015874)
I dont think thats going to work out the way you think it will, but Id be interested in hearing your experience after the fact.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1014496)
I have a Mazda hub floating around we were using for R&D. I'll try to post some photos of the Dorman part and the Mazda part together later this week.
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Originally Posted by cucamelsmd15
(Post 1015874)
I dont think thats going to work out the way you think it will, but Id be interested in hearing your experience after the fact.
nicely with a wooden stick and a tap from a hammer. Bearings need no replacing this time. |
I just received my Rockauto order and got one of the Taiwan and one of the China rear hubs. After reading the posts here I decided to check the measurements around the entire hub. They are virtually the same except for the noted stud design difference between the 90-93 hub and the 94+ hub and the inside spline depth. The 94+ hub splines are cut deeper into the center of the hub vs the 90-93. Given the spline difference on the 94+ hub, that's the one I'm going to use. I contacted Rockauto and emailed them with pics and requested an RMA # and a shipping tag. Hopefully they will have the 94+ one in stock.
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Let us know if they are able to get you a specific one. I am returning my Made in China Dorman to Amazon and need to figure out how to get a Made in Taiwan unit to match my other one.
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4 Attachment(s)
For those of you with more expertise and/or any idea what to look for, is there a reason NOT to just run one of the China and one of the Taiwan hubs if you are swapping out the wheel studs?
Taiwan: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1370002394 China: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1370002394 Taiwan: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1370002394 China: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1370002394 |
Please disregard my last post. I was apparently having a mental block with regards to the differences in the two hubs.
Since I have 94+ ARP rear studs sitting in a box, I want to keep the Made in China hub and send back the Made in Taiwan hub. When I look on eBay, all of the pictured hubs appear to be the Made in China version (no additional holes, black studs). Amazon's picture was the Made in Taiwan version (additional holes, silver studs). That leads me to believe that the China version may be a more recent one? |
Originally Posted by NiklasFalk
(Post 1015864)
Volume... (or deeper pockets in the Miata camp :))
Different number of "splines" on the knurl so you have to persuade the F-body ones a bit more than the Miata specific ones during install. .002" is seriously nothing. Manufacturing tolerances on a knurled surface are more than. |
So the F body studs are shorter or longer?
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I think a 1/4" shorter.
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Originally Posted by njn63
(Post 1017081)
I pulled them through using a lug nut.
Never, ever pull studs into the hubs with lug-nuts. Press them in using a hydraulic press. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1017485)
Huge no-no, dude. You likely twisted the splines as you pulled/twisted the stud into the hole. The splines are what retains the stud in the hub, so you run the risk of the stud spinning and losing the lugnut.
Never, ever pull studs into the hubs with lug-nuts. Press them in using a hydraulic press. |
Originally Posted by cucamelsmd15
(Post 1017486)
The HF C clamp press also works for the cheapasses. ;)
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1017485)
Huge no-no, dude. You likely twisted the splines as you pulled/twisted the stud into the hole. The splines are what retains the stud in the hub, so you run the risk of the stud spinning and losing the lugnut.
Never, ever pull studs into the hubs with lug-nuts. Press them in using a hydraulic press. --Ian |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1017545)
I guess it's possible, but I've pulled them in with a lugnut and then taken them out again -- splines were all fine. If you lube up the threads with penetrating oil then it goes in with a lot less force required than is used to torque the lug nuts (like 40 ft-lbs).
--Ian |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1017485)
You likely twisted the splines as you pulled/twisted the stud into the hole. The splines are what retains the stud in the hub, so you run the risk of the stud spinning and losing the lugnut.
The risks I see in installing a stud using a lug nut are: -Taking out the splines and ending up with a stud that spins during tightening/loosening. -Ending up with a stud that isn't completely bottomed out. (This could become a huge problem when the stud gets pulled through further and clamp load is reduced severely) |
Originally Posted by njn63
(Post 1017923)
Is this something you've seen happen or is it just a theory? Because a wheel stud that is properly torqued has a shit ton of clamp load (something like 5 tons) acting on a small flange... it's not spinning easily based on the math.
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