Obviously you can't. I read it as you saying it would loosen on the track after being properly torqued. If you didn't mean it that way, we're pretty much on the same page. :party:

To make myself clear, I'm not arguing that it's the proper way but sometimes other methods work in a pinch. If the hubs were off the car I would of used the 20 ton press (probably the most under-utilized tool in my garage).

Good luck stripping those splines with a lug nut and a wrench.

sweet, now I know someone near my soon to be new home who has a press... :)

Just FYI - I was able to get a human being on the phone and get them to put hands on the product to confirm. eBay item #181114194737 from Diversified Auto Parts in FL had some made in China (black '94+ wheel studs) Dorman 930-550s in stock.

Finally got time to do my hubs tonight and noticed something that could be a source of problems for people who have replaced rear wheel bearings and reused the original hub. I was talking to the old dude at the shop and fucked up on the first one and left the snap ring out, so I had to pull it back apart. I wanted to separate the hub and the inner race that came out so that I could fully reassemble the bearing before the final press. The only way I've ever seen that done is a little heat plus a chisel to get enough of a gap to get a puller in there. The chisel process left some nice little burrs:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373263530

That surface mates up to the bearing and is supposed to be flat. If someone weren't paying attention or didn't bother to file those burrs away (or were careless with the file and gouged the radiused section), you'd end up with some weird stresses in there when you tightened the axle nut. I could see it causing a failure with enough time.

Maybe common knowledge for the mechanic types, but if you're like me and do bearings once every 2-3 years, it's something to watch for.

Another data point... it seems that I got a bad taiwanese dorman replacement. It was not the one that I filed on in the picture above, but the one on the other side of the car. The first time I installed it was with a new Timken bearing and the assembly had play once I got it on the car with axle nut torqued. Felt like normal bad bearing play, so I assumed I got a bad bearing, pulled it back apart and put in another fresh bearing. Still had play. I stuck a magnetic base dial indicator on the control arm and tried to find exactly where the play was, just to be sure it wasn't a bushing/bolted joint. All signs pointed to the bearing/hub. Pulled everything back apart and put in another fresh bearing with my old OEM hub, and the play is gone. I've measured and compared the bad hub to the stocker that I removed and can't find anything wrong with it, but I have trouble believing that I got 2 bad timken bearings in a row. I think I'm just going to spend the extra on new OEM hubs from now on...

So general consensus is Timken 513152 up front and Dorman 930-550 in the rear?

Timken 513152
AutoZone: $72
Amazon: $103
RockAuto: $97

I find it interesting that my local AutoZone has RockAuto beat by $25 EACH for front hubs. Plus free shipping and a $20 gift card.

Dorman 930-550
AutoZone: $44
Amazon: $30
RockAuto: $22

Plus RA wants $8.75 to ship them, not to shabby. Are you guys still getting mismatched pairs of Dormans from RockAuto?

Autozone had some ridiculous deal on both the Timken front and the Timken rear bearing, beat Amazon and Rockauto. I lucked out on the Taiwan hubs from Rock, but I messed up the bearing on one of them, then couldn't get the hub out.

You can go to O'Reilly and you can check the box before you buy it. Rear Taiwan hub from O'Reilly was about $45; worked in a pinch.

RockAuto has the Timken 510003 rear bearing listed at $22 and AutoZone wants $40 for the same, so again its about 1/2 the price. Same shipper as the Dorman hub, so that's convenient. Now all I need the seal and the nut and I should be good to go.

Oh, and I need a press...

Yeah, but if you fuck up the install, you do have a local supplier.

I bought the rear bearings and hubs from Amazon (free 2 day, holla), the front hub assemblies from Autozone w/ a 20% coupon, and the rest of the small bits from Mazdaspeed or Rosenthal (caps, axle nuts, etc).

NOTE NOTE NOTE: the axle nuts provided are too big, so just buy them from Mazda.

Good note. I'll just order them from Rosenthal when I get my LE/R tie rod ends. :cool:

Has anyone had the 1994+ ARP rear studs (100-7720) not fit in a Dorman China hub?

I didn't put much effort into measuring them so they may be off a thousandth or 3
Dorman knurl diameter: .565
ARP Knurl diameter: .581

I've heard that as well. Apparently the Taiwanese hubs have the OEM knurl diameter.

Looks like Evo studs should work in those, at least on paper. ARP # 100-7717

Yes, I had this issue, but on eBay hubs. Had to ream out the hubs, and used front studs instead of rears.

I've ordered two of the same part number rear Dorman hubs. and one had 94+ stud diameter holes and the other had the early knurl diameter same as all fronts. one said China the other said Tiwan but I cant remember which.

The knurl diameter on the front studs is 0.507. I thought I may have gotten the China/Taiwan->ARP stud mapping wrong, but these are a completely different 3rd size. I don't see anything notable about the hubs that could be used figure out which hub you'll need before pressing out a stud.

Evo studs work. So yeah, measure your stud knurl if you get China hubs.

Are you guys measuring the knurl diameter on the dorman studs or the size of the hole?

If I understand correctly, if the hole in the hub is .565", than it is only .016" smaller than the ARP knurl. That sounds right for press fitting something that's knurled.

Im measuring the diameter of the stud knurl. So the ARP stud is too big by .015