I am surprised no one has mentioned the area between the steering wheel and the driver's seat.
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Originally Posted by Godless Commie
(Post 614258)
I am surprised no one has mentioned the area between the steering wheel and the driver's seat.
My car is still heavy it weighed 2283 with no fuel in it and the hard top off. At Packwood national tour this last weekend. Bob |
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 614274)
I swapped to a Canadian Non Airbag column and combo switch and dropped ~4 lbs. The column is lighter the mounting bracket is lighter and there is no knee bolster metal backup plates under the dash.
My car is still heavy it weighed 2283 with no fuel in it and the hard top off. At Packwood national tour this last weekend. Bob |
I was actually going to mention that as well... Also loosing some organs and extremities might help as well.
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Originally Posted by old_s13
(Post 614238)
Sounds awesome.
Fat fuck.. haha |
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 614274)
Packwood national tour this last weekend.
Bob |
i'm planning on making a harness from scratch, but since the car has a nissan motor and aim dash, its mostly an exercise in throwing out everything except for lights.
i was looking at these as possibilities: http://www.amphenol-aerospace.com/circular_hd38999.asp http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ old s13, do u have any pics of your (i'm assuming) drift s13 harness? i'd like to see that. |
Originally Posted by jasonb
(Post 614344)
i'm planning on making a harness from scratch, but since the car has a nissan motor and aim dash, its mostly an exercise in throwing out everything except for lights.
i was looking at these as possibilities: http://www.amphenol-aerospace.com/circular_hd38999.asp http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ old s13, do u have any pics of your (i'm assuming) drift s13 harness? i'd like to see that. |
Are you wanting to make the dash appear stock?
Here is what I did. Remove the passenger side air bag, unbolt the lid, and then glue the lid back to the dash. It will look bone stock. I removed the driver side as well, but I assume you will have an aftermarket wheel. The passanger air bag is seriously heavy. You can do the same thing to the glove box, remove the outer skin, and bolt the bottom hinge back to the dash. The latch is attached to the skin, and you will still be able to latch it, and when you are finished it will look stock. You can then put components that need adjustment like ecu or my Electromotive under the dash for easy access. After I removed all of the a/c and heater components, unnecessary wiring, airbags, and glove box; the dash wieghed about 15 lbs or so. It was a lot work, but looks much better than an aluminum dash. All of my gauges still work too. When I removed the dash to strip it, it was all I could do to muscle it out by myself. When I put it back in, the difference was incredible. If you have an early year Miata, one of the motor mounts is a heavy cast peice. Replace it with a later year stamped steal one. I cut holes in both of my motor mounts to make them lighter. I will get a pic of it. Another trick is to get rid of the fancy alternator tensioner, and cut the bracket in half. I will get a pic of that too. I removed the parking brake, and even cut out the brackets that held the cable under the car. (I wish I had not done that) Get hood pins, and get rid of the cable and brackets under the dash and hood, and get rid of the hood prop. Hood props belong in the tow vehicle with your tools. If I think of other things I did, I will post them. |
Toss the headlight motors?
It seems you could easily fabricate a manual method to raising and locking the headlight frame in place (assuming you still have yours) e.g. - a removable pin. In fact, if my memory serves me right there's a guy with the user name 'Adore' who removed his motors but has some sort of manual method to raising and locking his lights. -Zach |
Originally Posted by miata2fast
(Post 615522)
Are you wanting to make the dash appear stock?
Here is what I did. Remove the passenger side air bag, unbolt the lid, and then glue the lid back to the dash. It will look bone stock. I removed the driver side as well, but I assume you will have an aftermarket wheel. The passanger air bag is seriously heavy. You can do the same thing to the glove box, remove the outer skin, and bolt the bottom hinge back to the dash. The latch is attached to the skin, and you will still be able to latch it, and when you are finished it will look stock. You can then put components that need adjustment like ecu or my Electromotive under the dash for easy access. After I removed all of the a/c and heater components, unnecessary wiring, airbags, and glove box; the dash wieghed about 15 lbs or so. It was a lot work, but looks much better than an aluminum dash. All of my gauges still work too. When I removed the dash to strip it, it was all I could do to muscle it out by myself. When I put it back in, the difference was incredible. If you have an early year Miata, one of the motor mounts is a heavy cast peice. Replace it with a later year stamped steal one. I cut holes in both of my motor mounts to make them lighter. I will get a pic of it. Another trick is to get rid of the fancy alternator tensioner, and cut the bracket in half. I will get a pic of that too. I removed the parking brake, and even cut out the brackets that held the cable under the car. (I wish I had not done that) Get hood pins, and get rid of the cable and brackets under the dash and hood, and get rid of the hood prop. Hood props belong in the tow vehicle with your tools. If I think of other things I did, I will post them. |
One thing my car still has is the parking brake. I lost the front brakes last year (back when they were stock) at Thunderhill and the e-brake kept me from going into a tire wall. No matter what it weighs, for me it's a safety item.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 616212)
One thing my car still has is the parking brake. I lost the front brakes last year (back when they were stock) at Thunderhill and the e-brake kept me from going into a tire wall. No matter what it weighs, for me it's a safety item.
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Yeah the e-brake would not be a good thing to get rid of in my opinion.
In the CMRA (motorcycle road racing) they require all bikes to have rear brakes even though most people, even the fast guys, never touch them. It is effectively an emergency brake unless you have God-like riding skillz. |
I can't do it because I'm old and uncoordinated, but I know one top driver that uses the E brake for control. I see no mention of this above.
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Originally Posted by olderguy
(Post 616375)
I can't do it because I'm old and uncoordinated, but I know one top driver that uses the E brake for control. I see no mention of this above.
i removed lbs. worth of brackets and bolts under the hood. including the washer bottle and heavy bracket that held it and the fuse box. i now just have a small alum. tab holding the fuse box. also part of my winter remodeling will include replacing my heavy steel i/c pipes with an aluminum otr pipng setup, and replace the cat-back exh. pipe with aluminum. on the wiring, i wish i could have this guy make me a new harness! http://rywire.com/store/replacement-...ess-p-245.html |
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 616336)
Yeah the e-brake would not be a good thing to get rid of in my opinion.
In the CMRA (motorcycle road racing) they require all bikes to have rear brakes even though most people, even the fast guys, never touch them. It is effectively an emergency brake unless you have God-like riding skillz. |
Some of the stuff I have done in my street car...
swap in 1.6 dash remove radio remove air bag system remove wiring for above remove power antenna remove power steering remove hood latch and cable, replace with pins remove cruise control remove cockpit brace, replaced with rollbar + weight, I know drilled holes in cast A/C bracket remove windshield sprayers/reservior replace fuse box bracket w/aluminum tube radio bracket behind dash removed removed defroster wiring probably other stuff I forgot some time in the future I'd like to look into a lighter drivers seat, and manually raised/lowered headlights. I require A/C for a street car so that's not going anywhere. |
Originally Posted by spoolin2bars
(Post 616387)
...heavy bracket that held it and the fuse box. i now just have a small alum. tab holding the fuse box...
Originally Posted by Stealth97
(Post 616528)
...replace fuse box bracket w/aluminum tube...
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2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 616537)
More pics of these please.
This is a crude pic, since this was taken I have got everything bolted down and made a nice filler panel from ABS to cover the wiring below. tucks it out of the way nicely, leaves room to mount something like aftermarket coils, etc. I guess the the "nawwwsss" overflow bottle saves an ounce or two, so does ditching the charcoal canister. Attachment 195196 |
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