Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 614274)
I swapped to a Canadian Non Airbag column and combo switch and dropped ~4 lbs. The column is lighter the mounting bracket is lighter and there is no knee bolster metal backup plates under the dash.
My car is still heavy it weighed 2283 with no fuel in it and the hard top off. At Packwood national tour this last weekend. Bob |
Back to Double O 86's question. I don't have windows anymore and I simply reach over the door and unlatch the door from the pull handle or from inside the door I pull down on the linkage that runs from the door handle to the latch.
|
Originally Posted by Oscar
(Post 622020)
We used some plastic coated steel cable for the doors on our racecar. One end connected to the latch, the other end across the door through a hole, pull cable to release latch and open door.
I also used similar cable and an adjustable turnbuckle to support the doors after removing the crash beams (NASCAR bars on both sides of my cage). |
Originally Posted by baron340
(Post 622071)
This is a very bad idea. There is a reason why Al is rarely used for electrical conductivity. Al in it's pure form is very highly conductive, but Al oxide is not at all. The ends of the wires will corrode into Al oxide, the resistance in the wire goes up and with it comes lots and lots of heat. Like enough heat to set something on fire, melt through the battery, etc.
geez, i had better check the connection on my oven. when i replaced it last i forget if i put anything on the wires to keep them from oxidizing. its pulling 30A i think, so that might be a problem :eek5: @rharris: when did they stop using aluminum wire in residential houses? mine is 12ish years old and is full of it. |
Originally Posted by Reverend Greg
(Post 622078)
What, do you just put in an Aluminum fire wall?
(G) |
Originally Posted by jasonb
(Post 622141)
@rharris: when did they stop using aluminum wire in residential houses? mine is 12ish years old and is full of it.
|
aluminum wire=cheap ass fail and fire.
|
okok, you made me google. i think the al idea got a fail without a fair shake.
Delphi Aluminum Cable is a cost-effective cable, lightweight wiring alternative that offers up to 48 percent mass reduction compared to traditional copper core cable. Approximately ½ pound (227 grams) of aluminum can replace 1 pound (454 grams) of copper So it is being marketed. I cannot find any references to real world battery cable tho. I suspect that the al cable is going to be 30-40% bigger and eat into the weight savings. |
It doesn't need to be any bigger from what I understand. Aluminum is very conductive and a standard size battery cable would suffice.
|
Originally Posted by modernbeat
(Post 622079)
How did you reconcile the differences in both the plugs between the '90 US wiring and the early Canadian combo switches? And how did you reconcile the wiper wiring? It seems like you'd have to rewire all the turn signals and wiper to make them work with the Canadian combo switch.
I also took every unused wire out of my harness, no warning buzzers, AC, cruse, Air bag etc. Bob |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 622093)
+1. I have a cable attached to the latch, and when I push on the cable it catches the latch just before it reaches the skin of the door and the door swings open.
I also used similar cable and an adjustable turnbuckle to support the doors after removing the crash beams (NASCAR bars on both sides of my cage). Does the door get too floppy if you cut out the side impact beam? I am thinking of taking some weight out of my door somehow. Bob |
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 622555)
Does the door get too floppy if you cut out the side impact beam? I am thinking of taking some weight out of my door somehow.
Bob |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 622581)
Yes. You can remove essentially everything except the impact beam, but once the impact beam goes the door will not support itself when it's open.
Bob |
Yes thanks for that. Until I have a full cage with door bars it is probably a good idea to leave them in anyway.
|
Trunk floor. Replace with a thin aluminum panel or get daring and move the radiator back there.
|
Originally Posted by Midtenn
(Post 623977)
get daring and move the radiator back there.
|
i did that on our shop crx with ls/turbo swap. works alot better. gonna road course test it soon.
|
If I added a transmission and/or diff cooler, that is where I would put them, in the trunk, with some creative, preferably downforce augmenting ducting system as a bonus.
|
I don't know about the radiator in the trunk idea... You would need more coolant and longer hoses which would add weight and it wouldn't get any air through it.
|
Originally Posted by superl
(Post 624211)
I don't know about the radiator in the trunk idea... You would need more coolant and longer hoses which would add weight and it wouldn't get any air through it.
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:49 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands