And I started slipping around 7psi, but it lasted for a while because I was mostly city driving at that time. It let loose on the highway in 4th onece and never worked right again, even in the city. I'd guess sub 150ft/lbs.

That's 1.6 clutch though, and I was trying to protect a 1.6 VLSD...

 

My freind has ~$3000 into his turbo 91. But he payed $1500 for the car with turbo stuff already installed (egay t3, mani, downpipe, intercooler, bov) but it has an LC2 wideband, DooDoobox and MSD. Most of the money has gone into maintinance (new roof, breaks, tires, wheels, shocks) and such.

Stock clutch and 1.6 open dif are holding, the boost guage claims 9psi, but I don't beleive it since it has 1.8 injectors that have no problem pushing into the 9s for AFR. I bet closer to 5-7ish PSI.

Voodoo abd MSD will soon be replaced with a Link (it was cheap) and a "formerly greddy kit". ARtech greddy replacement manifold (ceramic coated), turbo tony downpipe, tdo4 and line. He got all that for $450. Should be able to break even selling what is on the car now.

 

As long as you guys realize that I started with a bone stock miata, and modified it with everything to produce 200-250whp for under $5k, which includes the price of the car, please talk as much as you want. There are plenty of people who run rx7 instead of ev14 and there are plenty of people who run a piggy back instead of an mspnp2. There are plenty of people who spend 1000 on a turbo and plenty who spend 150. These are choices I made and so far am pretty happy with the results, and I don't believe many people have as powerful of a car for the price. I can't explain to you how much I don't care about the reliability of this car so it's not an argument I'm even going to engage in. The only people on here who have even remotely gained my respect are 18psi because he seems to recognize a troll, and Sean because he built a good car for a good price. But on a side note it's pretty obvious that you're all frustrated about this thread. How frustrated would you be if my oil lines never need to be repaired and my manifold doesn't crack?

 

But if what you guys say is true, I am glad we are all laughing. When you grow up farming in northern maine it's awful hard to care about stuff like how the oil line is attached. I'll keep you guys updated.

 

Oh also how horned up would everyone be if I said I was primarily interested in drifting?

 

It's still mud season where you are. Then the black flies will be out...

 

 

Well mud season doesn't mean the roads are muddy

 

You'd think as an engineer you'd be paid enough to build something that doesn't look like a blind 3 year old assembled it.

Youd also think if you are going through the trouble of justifying the cheap parts that will break leak under perform ect you'd also consider your personal time into fixing it over and over and ghettofying everything 6 times instead of doing it once and being done.
I'm all for saving money don't get me wrong I have a eBay manifold on my build that very well could make 800+ whp with a better rear end and bigger injectors or racegas. I have a eBay AN oil feed/return line ect there are plenty of times to save money you just picked shitty places.

 

@shortpersonbk-
I take exception with much of what you have said. I cobbled my car together from mostly used parts in an incremental fashion because I wasn't interested in spending a lot of money on amusing myself. And I enjoyed hammering and tinkering as much as anything else that came from the build. Having the money to buy better parts has never been the issue. Choosing to spend the money is the difference.

 

Cobbling is fine I'm not saying buy a $7500 kit. If you ever take a look at my junk it is not a kit not super baller just basic parts where I saved money where I could and spent it else where when I needed. An ebay oil feed/return is what like $60? instead some 5/8ths line with a bunnch of rtv to adapt it is the answer?

Sounds like a great idea till some rtv breaks off and blocks the feed for the turbo starving it or a small hole appears and sprays pressurized hot oil all over your block during a pull starting a sweet fire.

In b4 drifts into solid object anyways.

 

I would agree with you except the feed line is braided stainless with fittings from the local hose store. Please correct me if I'm wrong but the only thing people are considering cheaped out on really is the manifold and the rubber oil drain hose? Everything else is of high quality so just not sure what everyone is so upset about. Is it the fact that the welds on the wg bracket look crappy even though they are solid? Or is this style of hoon mobile just not welcome here? I'm actually wondering... Aside from the fact that I troll quite a bit.

 

Idk to be honest the closer to positive post cats I get the bigger dick I become on here.

 

Oh well honestly I haven't seen anyone on here who I wouldn't consider a typical forum dick so don't worry about it

 

I just wish this dude would replace the broken "enter" key on his keyboard.

Wall-o-text is so damn hard to read.







inb4 "Oh I'm an engineer not an English major so I don need to be gud at grammar n sh*t."

 

Ya rly no need to be gud at grammer wen u can jus type from ur phone. Dnt havea job cuz im too stupid for ne1 to wanna hire me neway so i have a hard tim gettin a new keybored wit no $$$

 

dole.

 

Trying to justify this ghetto garbage of a setup for the scientific sake of it and to say 'oh I'll just fix it along the way' is a very stupid approach to turbocharging your vehicle.

Recommended kits that have already been pointed out to you include allthethings that you'd ever need to have a reliable setup. You will get tired eventually of fixing your junk, spending money when you should of been done with it already.

 

Today I'll be doing an exhaust that's not half assed. I welded a short downpipe onto the flange to drive it to a nice tig setup. I'll put up some pictures when it's done.

I drove the car some yesterday and some ic piping popped apart under full boost (14 psi on the gt2554) and my tune really isn't the best although it does run safe afrs all the time which is mostly what I care about.

The stock clutch hasn't slipped yet but I'm sure it will soon. There are 140k miles on the current oem clutch and tranny and the engine has 160k. The car is extremely fun to drive and I'm looking forward to spending more money on it.

 

Fair enough girzor. But nobody has really identified what is so bad about this build other than the fact that I may have made a poor decision with the manifold I chose, and the way the oil drain is set up. All of the important stuff (engine management, fueling, suspension, gauges, etc) are what I'm pretty sure everyone else would buy if they had similar performance goals.