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cop conversion, no spark from ms?

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Old 06-25-2018 | 04:50 PM
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ive been away at work...any way off next couple days determined to solve this.

looked over all the previous posts i read....

i may have found the issue in the cop wiring... these 2 dont match in the Upgrading to coil on plug thread (both are supposed to be 1.6 wiring)... which am i supposed to be wired as? i followed the first, but after rereading the post, most of the connections are wrong?

testing via multimeter now..


Old 06-25-2018 | 05:02 PM
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Leave a poscat -1 Leave a negcat
Old 06-25-2018 | 05:09 PM
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This assumes wasted spark config. If you want to do sequential spark, you'll have to add a couple signal wires from the ECU too.
Old 06-25-2018 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by wackbards
thanks where did you get this ? just want to understand what im doing before i go moving wires again..
Old 06-25-2018 | 05:16 PM
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thinking this wont work.... pin 3 is providing the +12 to the coils...
Old 06-25-2018 | 05:20 PM
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The info is from the "definitive 1.6 to VVT swap" sticky. The 1st mega post has the incorrect pic you posted, but the text below has been corrected. I built this version of the picture for my own use, and it's been in my build thread for a while. I kind of think that the sticky would confuse people if the picture was updated, because there are references to the original pic being wrong throughout the whole thread. The attached pic is correct for deleting your igniter on a 1.6 for COP. It will maintain wasted spark config (which is not a huge deal), and should supply tach signal to your gauge cluster. I got uppity, and decided to wire for sequential spark. If you wanted to wire for sequential spark, this wiring remains the same, but you'll have to add a couple wires from the ECU to support 2 additional coil drivers (which your ECU might not even have).
Old 06-25-2018 | 05:23 PM
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here's the thread:

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...athread-80469/
Old 06-25-2018 | 05:40 PM
  #28  
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im not worried about sequential at the moment, just want to get the ms controlling the engine.

so this mod is just extending the connection for the spark outputs to the original coil connector on the 1.6 chassis, instead of the ignitor.. and by not using pin 3 and 6 the +12v and ground are coming from somewhere else?

trying now...
Old 06-25-2018 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by wackbards
where did you come up with this mess?!

you literally x'd out the two most important wires.
Old 06-25-2018 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Leepi Leep
ive been away at work...any way off next couple days determined to solve this.

looked over all the previous posts i read....

i may have found the issue in the cop wiring... these 2 dont match in the Upgrading to coil on plug thread (both are supposed to be 1.6 wiring)... which am i supposed to be wired as? i followed the first, but after rereading the post, most of the connections are wrong?

testing via multimeter now..


what doesn't match up? what is your actual issue?

Old 06-25-2018 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
what doesn't match up? what is your actual issue?


i was confused about the white to cyl 2+3 and red 1+4 wire, but realize now go to old coil pack which arent used.

just tested the mod he provided, it just loops those wires back to the original coil connector instead of the ignitor wires

my issue is im not getting spark to any coil with the megasquirt. i have continuity from pins 31 and 36 to the correct pairs of coils..
Old 06-25-2018 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
where did you come up with this mess?!

you literally x'd out the two most important wires.
I got it straight from the VVT swap sticky:

"Route 1 (white) to 2 (brown/yellow) (trigger for cyl 1/4, the text in the pic above is wrong, see post #156)
Route 7 (brown) to 8 (red) (trigger for cyl 2/3, text in pic above is wrong, see post #156)
Route 4 (yellow/blue) to 5 (black/white) (connects ECU directly to tachometer at gauge cluster)
Terminate 3 (blue) (unused +12v)
Terminate 6 (black) (unused ground)"

I'm running GM coils sequentially, so maybe we're not talking the same things??? IDK. Here's a pic I took of the deleted igniter.

Old 06-26-2018 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by wackbards
I got it straight from the VVT swap sticky:

"Route 1 (white) to 2 (brown/yellow) (trigger for cyl 1/4, the text in the pic above is wrong, see post #156)
Route 7 (brown) to 8 (red) (trigger for cyl 2/3, text in pic above is wrong, see post #156)
Route 4 (yellow/blue) to 5 (black/white) (connects ECU directly to tachometer at gauge cluster)
Terminate 3 (blue) (unused +12v)
Terminate 6 (black) (unused ground)"

I'm running GM coils sequentially, so maybe we're not talking the same things??? IDK. Here's a pic I took of the deleted igniter.


maybe that's why so many people are having issues with the simplest engine swap in human history?
Old 06-26-2018 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by wackbards
I got it straight from the VVT swap sticky:
It would be like baking bread and having no idea what the yeast or flour was actually for; you would just know that if you follow the recipe, magic happens and bread comes out.

To point out directly: Your coils are obviously being powered in some other way.
Old 06-27-2018 | 01:08 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by leboeuf
It would be like baking bread and having no idea what the yeast or flour was actually for; you would just know that if you follow the recipe, magic happens and bread comes out.

To point out directly: Your coils are obviously being powered in some other way.
that blue wire, which he cut at the ignitor, still has power at the original coil pack connector. there is nothing "wrong" with this method it just uses the 2 signals and power from the coil pack connector instead of ignitor.


my car now doesnt start even with stock ecu, no changes made... im thinking its a bad cas at the moment.. itll fire and stumble out. wondering if this cas was going bad, and causing my no spark issue on the ms... will resolve soon enough
Old 06-27-2018 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Leepi Leep
that blue wire, which he cut at the ignitor, still has power at the original coil pack connector. there is nothing "wrong" with this method it just uses the 2 signals and power from the coil pack connector instead of ignitor.
okay, that makes more sense.
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