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All the things!
I'm definitely not impressed with the quality control in this ATI damper. As you can see in the picture the indent for TDC isnt sitting in between the teeth of the timing gear but off to one side. It's only cosmetic as it appears the broach for the keyway is lined up correctly but for $500 that's stupid.
If you have the patience, I’d send it back to ATI. That mistake puts all future responsibility on you or a future owner, since any basic mechanic is going to use the notch.. If you got it from another vendor, maybe it’s from old stock.
Any update on this build? Very inspiring to read and a roller coaster like others have said. I currently have the same blower brp mp62. My build is just pretty vanilla.. single tb at blower and dummy at IM. I just swapped over to megasquirt so excited to start tweaking stuff. Installed a fmic (not from tdr $1000+ new? No thanks) and I'm putting in FIC 1000s. I'm not too much in a hurry to get it fine tuned as in a month or so my new hotside tvs900 will be here. Got some potential bad news that an engine I ordered over overseas may not make it here at all due to shipping discrepancy. Anyway I have subscribed and hope it's going well OP
Any update on this build? Very inspiring to read and a roller coaster like others have said. I currently have the same blower brp mp62. My build is just pretty vanilla.. single tb at blower and dummy at IM. I just swapped over to megasquirt so excited to start tweaking stuff. Installed a fmic (not from tdr $1000+ new? No thanks) and I'm putting in FIC 1000s. I'm not too much in a hurry to get it fine tuned as in a month or so my new hotside tvs900 will be here. Got some potential bad news that an engine I ordered over overseas may not make it here at all due to shipping discrepancy. Anyway I have subscribed and hope it's going well OP
Thanks for the kind words. Sorry your tvs900 swap didn't work. You should start a thread on it and the trouble you had.
Being that I am going to be starting assembly of my own engine soon (as soon as I can find some main bearings), seeing this is motivating. I love the sound of superchargers, can't wait to see your car back making more powaah!
And after 11 months it lives.
Made 216/185 on 93 octane on the same Mustang Dyno I originally had it tuned on when I first installed the MP62 kit. It did this with 13.5 lbs on the new 130/62.5 pulley setup.
Dyno (below) from previous run last year. Same dyno, gas and tuner but done with a 140/62.5 pulley combo before the engine blew.
Here's the new tune.
Seems to be running well other than temperature issues. The first being the coolant temp is doing some weird ****. Water temp shoots up on cold start after light throttle driving and peaks at 125-130 and then shoots back down and stays perfectly fine at 197-206F kind of an area. Even the dumb water temp original temp guage goes to hot and then back to the middle along with the MS temp sensor. It's so weird how fast it goes up and then down. Its done this the two drives I did this weekend. The second and most troubling issue is the oil temp running hot. Once up to temp it stays at 230 and if I even start getting into boost for any length of time climbs to 250 quickly and I have the feeling it would go higher if I don't get off the throttle. I did decide to get a shimmed Boundary pump for this new build but it's one shim at 5 psi more if that has anything to do with it. The shop that did the build is using Cenpeco 10w30 high zinc racing oil. Idk if a fresh build see's normally higher oil temp during break in or this oil runs hot but I don't like how fast the temp climbs and don't wanna find out how hot it will get. Fresh build, can't drive the car the way I'd like. Lastly the car does not want to idle when warm started, it had this problem before the rebuild too.
Other than the problems the engine seems to be running well, no smoke and no piston slap. I picked it up Friday and completely had to remove and remount the charger already to fix what the shop did with it. Picked it up with the lower mount loose, the nut backed off the p/s pivot bolt. I now have a sweet (sarcasm) Korean made S/C belt. The original idea was for an e85 tune but they informed me their $650 tune only covered 93 and the e85 was 1k lol. Whatever, it's back but there's still work to be done.
I had similar issues with temp just rising when cruising on the freeway. EGT Pyrometer would also climb. My guess is your timing might be retarded too much. You have a few variables at play with MS, cam gears, and possibly that ATI damper that’s off a half tooth. I’d physically check everything is where it should be.
I had similar issues with temp just rising when cruising on the freeway. EGT Pyrometer would also climb. My guess is your timing might be retarded too much. You have a few variables at play with MS, cam gears, and possibly that ATI damper that’s off a half tooth. I’d physically check everything is where it should be.
The ATI damper isn't off half a tooth, the tdc mark was off. The keyway still lines up with the teeth like it should. I also made sure the shop who assembled the engine was aware of this.
Both the head and block got shaved .006 in, don't know how much that effects the timing. If it were off a tooth I feel like it wouldn't have made what it did on the dyno, right?
Did a couple of things today. First I pulled the plugs. #1 At the top down to #4 at the bottom. The other side of plug 1 is white like all the others.
I figured out the weird coolant temp issue. The shop that put the engine back together used a 195 thermostat with no bypass hole. I ended up replacing it with a 180 with a bypass hole and that problem is gone.
They overfilled the the oil by half a quart so I drained it that out.
Took it for a drive (it was a hot day.) The oil temps did not get as hot as they had been. It got up to 230-235 but didn't get into that 240-250 range. I drove it on the highway a little more aggressively than I had been when the oil was getting real hot.
Coolant temp stayed around 205-209 during my test drive which is a little hotter than I'd like for how I was driving the car.
I don' t see any problem with those oil temperatures personally, You want to keep the oil at a good temperature to ensure moisture etc evaporates out of it. I run basically the same temps as you on the street in summer weather. I am up to 120degC / 248degF during a track session (stable). The oil I use is rated for continuous use at 125degC, occasional up to 150degC.Did the shop that built the engine tell you what bearing clearances they had built the bottom end to?
Coolant does seem quite high, and along with the weird sensor behaviour I wonder if it is bled correctly / completely?
New timing map looks like it is a bit retarded 55-100kpa, you could move the 67kpa row up to 100kpa. Also seems to be very aggressive in the top right corner of the map, 5800rpm+ 156kpa+. Personally that's more advance than i'd be comfortable with on regular petrol. Also mid to high load below 3200rpm looks retarded. You can hit these areas really quickly and easily cruising on a motorway, just a surge of throttle to pass someone, so it's worth making sure those areas are where they should be timing wise. Not meaning to be that guy off the internet but those are my comments.
I don' t see any problem with those oil temperatures personally, You want to keep the oil at a good temperature to ensure moisture etc evaporates out of it. I run basically the same temps as you on the street in summer weather. I am up to 120degC / 248degF during a track session (stable). The oil I use is rated for continuous use at 125degC, occasional up to 150degC.Did the shop that built the engine tell you what bearing clearances they had built the bottom end to?
Coolant does seem quite high, and along with the weird sensor behaviour I wonder if it is bled correctly / completely?
New timing map looks like it is a bit retarded 55-100kpa, you could move the 67kpa row up to 100kpa. Also seems to be very aggressive in the top right corner of the map, 5800rpm+ 156kpa+. Personally that's more advance than i'd be comfortable with on regular petrol. Also mid to high load below 3200rpm looks retarded. You can hit these areas really quickly and easily cruising on a motorway, just a surge of throttle to pass someone, so it's worth making sure those areas are where they should be timing wise. Not meaning to be that guy off the internet but those are my comments.
Funny you say that. So this shop (the people who built the engine) tuned it when I first put this mp62 kit on and then I went with a different (remote) tuner who tuned it before I melted a piston. The remote tuner said exactly what you just did when he saw the tune they did the 1st time. I had to have this shop tune it this time agian because they built the engine and I wanted them to be the ones to start it, seat the rings and fix issues arrising from a fresh build. I need a good tuner, they charged $650 and wouldn't do an e85 tune, that's $1k from them.
I mentioned I fixed the coolant issue in my previous post although the car is still running a little hotter than I'd like. I'm almost ready to tear out the ac atm to get better flow to the radiator.
Yes understand, last thing you want is something to happen and everyone start pointing fingers at everyone else.
Is the AC rad in decent condition or has it had it's face stoved in? Undertray still on the car?
Hard to see the ac rad with the intercooler in the way. Maybe I need ducting. I have a larger radiator, dual fans and a reroute, I shouldn't NEED ducting for a street car.
There's a guy 4 hrs from me who did the orginal dual map e85 tune for my m45, I plan on getting him to remap it. I'm really curious what e85 and maybe a redesigned intake would do for this setup. Something tells me my 5 speed will be on borrowed time at that point.
The ATI damper isn't off half a tooth, the tdc mark was off. The keyway still lines up with the teeth like it should. I also made sure the shop who assembled the engine was aware of this.
Both the head and block got shaved .006 in, don't know how much that effects the timing. If it were off a tooth I feel like it wouldn't have made what it did on the dyno, right?
Could it be the tune?
As long as you’re absolutely positive, I guess, since someone else built it this time. You noticed a few minor problems like oil overfilled, and these small things happen when the car is custom. It’s. very easy to tell them and easy to forget in a shop. I took mine into a Miata specialist with a 15 page booklet of my setup, and I still ended up fixing their work for a week. They just don’t have the time to remember every car’s differences, like a mismarked crank pulley.
Overlooking the potential crank issues, I’d just wonder if aligning it to the bad TDC mark, then wrapping the timing belt, now puts your cam gears in the wrong position. This is where I experienced heat at cruise, I blindly installed FM gears at “0” reference assuming they were matched to stock. They were nowhere close. Power didn’t completely suck, but it also didn’t exhibit any real drivability problems. Besides the shave, it’s the only thing I can remember that dramatically changed during your rebuild.
Hope you get it sorted out, driving a car you don’t trust is a buzzkill.
[QUOTE=Cincykemo;1625953]Hard to see the ac rad with the intercooler in the way. Maybe I need ducting. I have a larger radiator, dual fans and a reroute, I shouldn't NEED ducting for a street car.
Great that you have it up amd running and I appreciate your help with everything you've shared and informed me on. From fb I mean. I will say that you may think you don't NEED ducting for a street car but all the ducting helps every little bit. With supercharging it's very important to have as much cool air flowing through the radiator and into your intake. Before I started adding things to my car ducting was the first thing I wanted to get right aside from maintenance of course. I took a cheaper diy route for the radiator cover up top. The way I see it is all the air helps.
Yeah every little bit help no doubt. I have a top radiator cover and also run the undertray. I have some things coming and I'm going to make some ducting to see if that helps. My ac doesn't do much so I'm close to taking out the condensor. I wish I had the time I'd remove the ac components and the p/s. Unfortunately I don't wanna take the p/s off until I can convert the rack. Next weekend I should be able to get some ducting made up. I'll post what happens.
Yeah every little bit help no doubt. I have a top radiator cover and also run the undertray. I have some things coming and I'm going to make some ducting to see if that helps. My ac doesn't do much so I'm close to taking out the condensor. I wish I had the time I'd remove the ac components and the p/s. Unfortunately I don't wanna take the p/s off until I can convert the rack. Next weekend I should be able to get some ducting made up. I'll post what happens.
Ditch the ac! Less weight more hp lol. Nah im half kidding but imo if its not a daily then i believe it can go. Ps i still have and stuck on if i want to delete it. I guess the thing stopping me is spending more money on a belt and the tdr delte bracket or pulley but I think you can just run without the additional hardware if you have no ps and ac? I'm 4 rib life unfortunately so every little belt contact helps especially without an auto tensioner
Let's just say this project is having some issues.
While driving back from a meet there was a rattling from the trans that only happened in 5th, it sounded like marbles in the trans but would still cruise in all gears. Picked up another 5 speed, oem seal kit and spent last weekend under this ******. It's still on stands atm as I ran out of time and couldnt get the trans to seat all the way on. I think I just need to tilt the engine downward a little and get the angle right. I ran out of energy doing this in the hot sun, at one point I thought I was gonna die under the car with the tans on top of me lol. I did notice a nice chunk of metal fall outta the old trans when draining it.
Still havn't logged this dam thing, actually have not driven it much. I got some stuff to make radiator ducting and hopefully I can get that done over the holiday weekend.
02-27-2022, 10:44 AM
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. Lastly the car does not want to idle when warm started, it had this problem before the rebuild too.
