Wideband bung placement in stock header
#1
Wideband bung placement in stock header
So while pulling my motor I forgot one step I was supposed to do...figure out where I could place the wideband so it wouldn't hit anything. I'm going to run a aem uego and stock ecu, so cant reuse the stock location.
I'm having a friend weld it at his school's race shop which he'll be at this sat, so I would like to figure it out for then rather than putting the car all together and test fitting.
Anyone running a second o2 sensor on a stock header that they could either share some pics or general placement guidelines?
If all else fails I'll eyeball where the header sits by referencing pics I have and go from there.
Car is a 1994
I'm having a friend weld it at his school's race shop which he'll be at this sat, so I would like to figure it out for then rather than putting the car all together and test fitting.
Anyone running a second o2 sensor on a stock header that they could either share some pics or general placement guidelines?
If all else fails I'll eyeball where the header sits by referencing pics I have and go from there.
Car is a 1994
#6
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As vertical as possible, leaving clearance so as to not hit anything when the engine/exhaust moves. About 10 o'clock is a good compromise. You just don't want it pointing down so condensation collects in it. It isn't that critical. Route the wires up through the shifter opening, under the large boot.
#7
As vertical as possible, leaving clearance so as to not hit anything when the engine/exhaust moves. About 10 o'clock is a good compromise. You just don't want it pointing down so condensation collects in it. It isn't that critical. Route the wires up through the shifter opening, under the large boot.
routing through the shifter opening is a good idea, haven't heard about doing that one before. Any issues with wire insulation degrading though? Maybe if I do that I'll cut a relief in the boot, or take a punch and dent a groove into the trans tunnel.
#8
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I'll aim for that, and hope for the best.
routing through the shifter opening is a good idea, haven't heard about doing that one before. Any issues with wire insulation degrading though? Maybe if I do that I'll cut a relief in the boot, or take a punch and dent a groove into the trans tunnel.
routing through the shifter opening is a good idea, haven't heard about doing that one before. Any issues with wire insulation degrading though? Maybe if I do that I'll cut a relief in the boot, or take a punch and dent a groove into the trans tunnel.
#9
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Careful, you'll have to ensure a perfect seal at that flange, or you'll introduce air and get a bad reading. I'd put it ~12-18" away from a flange, pointing up.
I also have my wires going through the shifter turret, you will eventually wear out the wires. I put a small piece of copper tube around that area, then wrapped it in electrical tape. The shift boot can crush the copper, but it still protects the wire. That works, or find another method.
I also have my wires going through the shifter turret, you will eventually wear out the wires. I put a small piece of copper tube around that area, then wrapped it in electrical tape. The shift boot can crush the copper, but it still protects the wire. That works, or find another method.
#10
Boost Czar
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shift boot is best:
1. the sensor away from a turbo before the cat is ideal.
2. routing the wiring from the sensor in the exhaust to the controller is easy.
3. it keeps the controller under the dash and away from harsh environments where they fail.
4. there happens to be power and grounds at the dash.
5. the ECU is in the cabin for easy wiring.
1. the sensor away from a turbo before the cat is ideal.
2. routing the wiring from the sensor in the exhaust to the controller is easy.
3. it keeps the controller under the dash and away from harsh environments where they fail.
4. there happens to be power and grounds at the dash.
5. the ECU is in the cabin for easy wiring.
#11
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Careful, you'll have to ensure a perfect seal at that flange, or you'll introduce air and get a bad reading. I'd put it ~12-18" away from a flange, pointing up.
I also have my wires going through the shifter turret, you will eventually wear out the wires. I put a small piece of copper tube around that area, then wrapped it in electrical tape. The shift boot can crush the copper, but it still protects the wire. That works, or find another method.
I also have my wires going through the shifter turret, you will eventually wear out the wires. I put a small piece of copper tube around that area, then wrapped it in electrical tape. The shift boot can crush the copper, but it still protects the wire. That works, or find another method.
Keith
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