Anyone running the NA 1.6 VLSD/rear end boosted?
12-11-2008, 08:37 PM
#21
I'm Miserable!
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: jacksonville, fl
Posts: 1,711
Total Cats: -1
ok I don't want to wage a flame war, but that is no way to welcome someone new to a forum. I could careless if you lack a life and have to come on miataturbo and post nearly 7000 posts in 2 years, that's more than 10 posts per day...I can't imagine how many posts you make in other forums you're on...
I probably have been roaming online forums much longer than you have been on the internet, so you don't have to tell me about the search button.
Oh, and if you clicked to open and read my thread, it's your own stupid fault, the topic is pretty clear what I am asking...if you don't want read it, don't read it dumbass
I probably have been roaming online forums much longer than you have been on the internet, so you don't have to tell me about the search button.
Oh, and if you clicked to open and read my thread, it's your own stupid fault, the topic is pretty clear what I am asking...if you don't want read it, don't read it dumbass
Reply
0
0
12-11-2008, 09:26 PM
#23
Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Tinley Park, IL
Posts: 1,482
Total Cats: 0
Stock 1.6 LSD, 4.30 ratio with 108,000 miles. About 10,000 of them at no less than 12 psi.
Daily driven hard and put away wet!
My boost comes on late so it launches pretty soft... most of the time.
Daily driven hard and put away wet!
My boost comes on late so it launches pretty soft... most of the time.
Reply
0
0
12-11-2008, 10:11 PM
#25
I have no ideal what mine is. But it is a smooth case 1.6L. I've driven it for a few months with no problems. I did pick up a used 1.8L rearend cheap, When the opertunity arrived. You can find flipped 1.8L cars on craigslist for 450-$700. Part it, and make a profit, and keep what you want. It takes no time to swap it. I wouldn't pay $800 for a rearend.
I'm scared of the torsen. My car is bad about wheel hoping. And everyone says the torsen will pop.
So dang'ed if you do, and dang'ed if you don't.
I'm shooting for 250hp.
I wanted a car that will pull a 13 with great mpg. I think I have accomplished that.
I drove mazda speed and wasn't impressed. I think my car would outrun it at 6psi.
The 1.8l brake swap is cheap and supe easy. I plan on doing the budget 11inch vw rotor upgrade for the fronts.
But for steet use, I have no complaints on the 1.6l brakes.
It is all about the deal you get, your budget, and how much wrench time you want to put in.
the 1.8L is better bang turn key.
Look around, find the better car for you.
You also know your capibilities. If you dont know how to change brakes, and are scared to try to work on somthing new.
you may want to get a 1.8L.
But both cars are good. And a 1.6L rearends are dirt cheap. And a dime a dozen.
There are certain things here that are band wagons. Everyone wants a ms, they are popular here.
On miata.net, they like pc pro, at my house I like dancing with my dog.
There is nothing wronge with a 1.6L. But yes the 94 is a better platform to start from.
But in my case, I can do all my own work. And I got a yellow miata with 17inch rims, like new tires, exposed cam gears valve cover, headlight duct, cold air induction, a nice strut tower brace, the chrome door thing-y's, fogg lights,style bar, racing beat swaybars and springs, biliet shift ****, alpine radio, alarm system, clean interior, and 2 1/2 inch mandrenal bent exhaust.And I drive it on road trips dependably. It is a DD
See, that is what you look for. Somebody has put a butt load into it. And they just get peanuts cause it was raced. Ohwwwww, it was raced.
heck yea, it was raced, now you are saving $$$$$$$!!!$$$$$ on supension, roll bars, etc etc.
If the motor goes out. Who CARES...... a 1.6L is like 250-$400 for a good motor.
But, I have contemplated throwing in my spare 1.8L myself. But not for a long time.
Get a good deal, make sure the interior is super clean, and the body is straight.
Tops and seat covers are cheap. but the body and panels make the car.
I'm scared of the torsen. My car is bad about wheel hoping. And everyone says the torsen will pop.
So dang'ed if you do, and dang'ed if you don't.
I'm shooting for 250hp.
I wanted a car that will pull a 13 with great mpg. I think I have accomplished that.
I drove mazda speed and wasn't impressed. I think my car would outrun it at 6psi.
The 1.8l brake swap is cheap and supe easy. I plan on doing the budget 11inch vw rotor upgrade for the fronts.
But for steet use, I have no complaints on the 1.6l brakes.
It is all about the deal you get, your budget, and how much wrench time you want to put in.
the 1.8L is better bang turn key.
Look around, find the better car for you.
You also know your capibilities. If you dont know how to change brakes, and are scared to try to work on somthing new.
you may want to get a 1.8L.
But both cars are good. And a 1.6L rearends are dirt cheap. And a dime a dozen.
There are certain things here that are band wagons. Everyone wants a ms, they are popular here.
On miata.net, they like pc pro, at my house I like dancing with my dog.
There is nothing wronge with a 1.6L. But yes the 94 is a better platform to start from.
But in my case, I can do all my own work. And I got a yellow miata with 17inch rims, like new tires, exposed cam gears valve cover, headlight duct, cold air induction, a nice strut tower brace, the chrome door thing-y's, fogg lights,style bar, racing beat swaybars and springs, biliet shift ****, alpine radio, alarm system, clean interior, and 2 1/2 inch mandrenal bent exhaust.And I drive it on road trips dependably. It is a DD
See, that is what you look for. Somebody has put a butt load into it. And they just get peanuts cause it was raced. Ohwwwww, it was raced.
heck yea, it was raced, now you are saving $$$$$$$!!!$$$$$ on supension, roll bars, etc etc.
If the motor goes out. Who CARES...... a 1.6L is like 250-$400 for a good motor.
But, I have contemplated throwing in my spare 1.8L myself. But not for a long time.
Get a good deal, make sure the interior is super clean, and the body is straight.
Tops and seat covers are cheap. but the body and panels make the car.
Last edited by Toddcod; 12-11-2008 at 10:42 PM.
Reply
0
0
12-11-2008, 11:56 PM
#27
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
I have no ideal what mine is. But it is a smooth case 1.6L. I've driven it for a few months with no problems. I did pick up a used 1.8L rearend cheap, When the opertunity arrived. You can find flipped 1.8L cars on craigslist for 450-$700. Part it, and make a profit, and keep what you want. It takes no time to swap it. I wouldn't pay $800 for a rearend.
I'm scared of the torsen. My car is bad about wheel hoping. And everyone says the torsen will pop.
So dang'ed if you do, and dang'ed if you don't.
I'm shooting for 250hp.
I wanted a car that will pull a 13 with great mpg. I think I have accomplished that.
I drove mazda speed and wasn't impressed. I think my car would outrun it at 6psi.
The 1.8l brake swap is cheap and supe easy. I plan on doing the budget 11inch vw rotor upgrade for the fronts.
But for steet use, I have no complaints on the 1.6l brakes.
It is all about the deal you get, your budget, and how much wrench time you want to put in.
the 1.8L is better bang turn key.
Look around, find the better car for you.
You also know your capibilities. If you dont know how to change brakes, and are scared to try to work on somthing new.
you may want to get a 1.8L.
But both cars are good. And a 1.6L rearends are dirt cheap. And a dime a dozen.
There are certain things here that are band wagons. Everyone wants a ms, they are popular here.
On miata.net, they like pc pro, at my house I like dancing with my dog.
There is nothing wronge with a 1.6L. But yes the 94 is a better platform to start from.
But in my case, I can do all my own work. And I got a yellow miata with 17inch rims, like new tires, exposed cam gears valve cover, headlight duct, cold air induction, a nice strut tower brace, the chrome door thing-y's, fogg lights,style bar, racing beat swaybars and springs, biliet shift ****, alpine radio, alarm system, clean interior, and 2 1/2 inch mandrenal bent exhaust.And I drive it on road trips dependably. It is a DD
See, that is what you look for. Somebody has put a butt load into it. And they just get peanuts cause it was raced. Ohwwwww, it was raced.
heck yea, it was raced, now you are saving $$$$$$$!!!$$$$$ on supension, roll bars, etc etc.
If the motor goes out. Who CARES...... a 1.6L is like 250-$400 for a good motor.
But, I have contemplated throwing in my spare 1.8L myself. But not for a long time.
Get a good deal, make sure the interior is super clean, and the body is straight.
Tops and seat covers are cheap. but the body and panels make the car.
I'm scared of the torsen. My car is bad about wheel hoping. And everyone says the torsen will pop.
So dang'ed if you do, and dang'ed if you don't.
I'm shooting for 250hp.
I wanted a car that will pull a 13 with great mpg. I think I have accomplished that.
I drove mazda speed and wasn't impressed. I think my car would outrun it at 6psi.
The 1.8l brake swap is cheap and supe easy. I plan on doing the budget 11inch vw rotor upgrade for the fronts.
But for steet use, I have no complaints on the 1.6l brakes.
It is all about the deal you get, your budget, and how much wrench time you want to put in.
the 1.8L is better bang turn key.
Look around, find the better car for you.
You also know your capibilities. If you dont know how to change brakes, and are scared to try to work on somthing new.
you may want to get a 1.8L.
But both cars are good. And a 1.6L rearends are dirt cheap. And a dime a dozen.
There are certain things here that are band wagons. Everyone wants a ms, they are popular here.
On miata.net, they like pc pro, at my house I like dancing with my dog.
There is nothing wronge with a 1.6L. But yes the 94 is a better platform to start from.
But in my case, I can do all my own work. And I got a yellow miata with 17inch rims, like new tires, exposed cam gears valve cover, headlight duct, cold air induction, a nice strut tower brace, the chrome door thing-y's, fogg lights,style bar, racing beat swaybars and springs, biliet shift ****, alpine radio, alarm system, clean interior, and 2 1/2 inch mandrenal bent exhaust.And I drive it on road trips dependably. It is a DD
See, that is what you look for. Somebody has put a butt load into it. And they just get peanuts cause it was raced. Ohwwwww, it was raced.
heck yea, it was raced, now you are saving $$$$$$$!!!$$$$$ on supension, roll bars, etc etc.
If the motor goes out. Who CARES...... a 1.6L is like 250-$400 for a good motor.
But, I have contemplated throwing in my spare 1.8L myself. But not for a long time.
Get a good deal, make sure the interior is super clean, and the body is straight.
Tops and seat covers are cheap. but the body and panels make the car.
Reply
0
0
12-12-2008, 12:15 AM
#28
Thats funny! I'm really getting tired of re-writing that crap everyday. I think I am going to email myself all the links I posted, and paste them. Kinda like your comments. LOL
Patches O'Halahan: "Your about as useful as a poopy flavored Lolly-Pop"
Yea, I'm bored, a good buzz and watching Dodgeball!........Life is good....
Patches O'Halahan: "Your about as useful as a poopy flavored Lolly-Pop"
Yea, I'm bored, a good buzz and watching Dodgeball!........Life is good....
Reply
0
0
12-12-2008, 12:21 AM
#29
Newb
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 27
Total Cats: 0
Thats funny! I'm really getting tired of re-writing that crap everyday. I think I am going to email myself all the links I posted, and paste them. Kinda like your comments. LOL
Patches O'Halahan: "Your about as useful as a poopy flavored Lolly-Pop"
Yea, I'm bored, a good buzz and watching Dodgeball!........Life is good....
Patches O'Halahan: "Your about as useful as a poopy flavored Lolly-Pop"
Yea, I'm bored, a good buzz and watching Dodgeball!........Life is good....
I am really still unsure which turbo route I am going yet. I am leaning toward the greddy for ease and since it's pretty well known...I was planning to get $200 ebay t25, but haven't found cheap downpipe yet, all the downpipes on ebay are the 4 bolt 14b stuff...oh well...keep looking.
Reply
0
0
12-12-2008, 02:14 AM
#30
Newb
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 27
Total Cats: 0
new questions...
Does a 1.8 rear end from an automatic work? drive shafts and the half shafts?
Thanks,
If I buy it from a healthy donor car, the 1.6 rear end can back into the 1.8 right?
1.6 motors with auto tranny had a little less power if I remember correctly, is that the same case with 1.8's?
Does a 1.8 rear end from an automatic work? drive shafts and the half shafts?
Thanks,
If I buy it from a healthy donor car, the 1.6 rear end can back into the 1.8 right?
1.6 motors with auto tranny had a little less power if I remember correctly, is that the same case with 1.8's?
Reply
0
0
12-12-2008, 08:47 AM
#33
Miata.net has a garage section, before the forums, and it has a broken down explaination. It is pretty good, I would read that.
I bet the driveshaft would be wrong.
I have driven a few 1000 miles on my car with the 1.6L rearend. I'm in no rush to swap it.
Show a little empathy when taking off, let out of the gas inbetween gears, that will take you far.
You can still lay the rubber down on the road.
I would put my money first into the turbo, everything else is liveable.
After your turbo'ed, then worry about the rearend. You never have a guarentee with any miata rearend. The torsen can pop. You are taking a 90-100hp car and getting insanely twice the hp it was made for.
That is why, I plan on making something special. LOL The RX7 internal into the 1.8L .But that is down the road...........
Greddy is cheap used. But if you can find a used begi or FM, that would be better, and save $$$ for your hp addiction later........
There is a dude that has a used FM manifold and Gt2560 and down pipe for sale. He wouldn't part it. I wanted the ceramic coated manifold.
That would be good. It was like $900. That is a good deal. I bet you can get it for $800.00
Then add the DIY Intercooler.
I bet the driveshaft would be wrong.
I have driven a few 1000 miles on my car with the 1.6L rearend. I'm in no rush to swap it.
Show a little empathy when taking off, let out of the gas inbetween gears, that will take you far.
You can still lay the rubber down on the road.
I would put my money first into the turbo, everything else is liveable.
After your turbo'ed, then worry about the rearend. You never have a guarentee with any miata rearend. The torsen can pop. You are taking a 90-100hp car and getting insanely twice the hp it was made for.
That is why, I plan on making something special. LOL The RX7 internal into the 1.8L .But that is down the road...........
Greddy is cheap used. But if you can find a used begi or FM, that would be better, and save $$$ for your hp addiction later........
There is a dude that has a used FM manifold and Gt2560 and down pipe for sale. He wouldn't part it. I wanted the ceramic coated manifold.
That would be good. It was like $900. That is a good deal. I bet you can get it for $800.00
Then add the DIY Intercooler.
Reply
0
0
12-12-2008, 01:05 PM
#34
Newb
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 27
Total Cats: 0
Miata.net has a garage section, before the forums, and it has a broken down explaination. It is pretty good, I would read that.
I bet the driveshaft would be wrong.
I have driven a few 1000 miles on my car with the 1.6L rearend. I'm in no rush to swap it.
Show a little empathy when taking off, let out of the gas inbetween gears, that will take you far.
You can still lay the rubber down on the road.
I would put my money first into the turbo, everything else is liveable.
After your turbo'ed, then worry about the rearend. You never have a guarentee with any miata rearend. The torsen can pop. You are taking a 90-100hp car and getting insanely twice the hp it was made for.
That is why, I plan on making something special. LOL The RX7 internal into the 1.8L .But that is down the road...........
Greddy is cheap used. But if you can find a used begi or FM, that would be better, and save $$$ for your hp addiction later........
There is a dude that has a used FM manifold and Gt2560 and down pipe for sale. He wouldn't part it. I wanted the ceramic coated manifold.
That would be good. It was like $900. That is a good deal. I bet you can get it for $800.00
Then add the DIY Intercooler.
I bet the driveshaft would be wrong.
I have driven a few 1000 miles on my car with the 1.6L rearend. I'm in no rush to swap it.
Show a little empathy when taking off, let out of the gas inbetween gears, that will take you far.
You can still lay the rubber down on the road.
I would put my money first into the turbo, everything else is liveable.
After your turbo'ed, then worry about the rearend. You never have a guarentee with any miata rearend. The torsen can pop. You are taking a 90-100hp car and getting insanely twice the hp it was made for.
That is why, I plan on making something special. LOL The RX7 internal into the 1.8L .But that is down the road...........
Greddy is cheap used. But if you can find a used begi or FM, that would be better, and save $$$ for your hp addiction later........
There is a dude that has a used FM manifold and Gt2560 and down pipe for sale. He wouldn't part it. I wanted the ceramic coated manifold.
That would be good. It was like $900. That is a good deal. I bet you can get it for $800.00
Then add the DIY Intercooler.
That is pretty good. All I would need is:
injectors: 160
MS PNP: 700
Universal Intercooler kit, ebay style - $150-$200
GM boost controller: 50
That's right around my 2k budget!
Reply
0
0
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SuperSneakySecretSquirrel
Meet and Greet
5
09-06-2015 08:30 PM
