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Old 06-30-2014, 04:49 PM   #181
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According to Swift's spec sheet, 8" 9kg/mm is the shortest/lightest spring that will work in the front. Nothing reasonable will work in the rear without helpers.
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:38 PM   #182
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I have used a set of 8 inch 10kg springs with success in the front. I only switched because I needed stronger springs with the slicks I upgraded to. I've still got them if someone wants to buy them.
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:58 AM   #183
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And here I've come to save the day with cheap helper springs: PAC Racing Coilover Tender Springs - Starting at $24.95

2.5" ID options are 3" long x 50 lbs/in, 5"x75#, and 5"x25#. Is there anything wrong with buying the longer 75# spring and cutting it shorter later if it ends up being a problem? I mean, it's a closed end spring, but the flat wire should mean it will still seat properly.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:54 AM   #184
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^ win, good job Jordan - props awarded (looks like you need 'em )
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:19 AM   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Failure View Post
My 7" springs only have 3" stroke and after measuring some others and looking at spec sheets, that seems pretty typical. My MSM Bilsteins have 5" stroke front and 4" rear. About 1/2" of that will be blocked off by the compressed bumpstop, but that still leaves the spring to either dangle at the bottom 1/2" or bind at the top. Even if those aren't ranges of suspension travel that my car will typically see, I'd rather design my car to work properly instead of hoping I never hit a big bump.

Edit: it's actually 4" stroke in the front and 5" in the rear. Pretty much the only springs that have that much travel are as long as the shock itself.

Hrmmm...

I ended up with 7" springs, MSM Billies, the ghettocat bump stops, and extended top hats. Wonder if i'll be ok.

If front is 4" stroke, springs are 3" stroke... i have 1/2" from bump stop and another 1" from extended top hat. 4 - 1.5 = 2.5 = good?

Rear is 5" stroke. Springs are 3" stroke. 1/2" from bump and 1.5" from extended top hat. 5 - 2 = 3 = good?
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Old 07-02-2014, 11:02 AM   #186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Failure View Post
And here I've come to save the day with cheap helper springs: PAC Racing Coilover Tender Springs - Starting at $24.95

2.5" ID options are 3" long x 50 lbs/in, 5"x75#, and 5"x25#. Is there anything wrong with buying the longer 75# spring and cutting it shorter later if it ends up being a problem? I mean, it's a closed end spring, but the flat wire should mean it will still seat properly.
I'm not in a place where I can do the math right now but trimming the 75# springs should get you closer to a 100# rate right? I've heard that that's a good rate for tenders so cutting them could be a win-win.

Or I could have no idea what I'm talking about
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:22 PM   #187
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If front is 4" stroke, springs are 3" stroke... i have 1/2" from bump stop and another 1" from extended top hat. 4 - 1.5 = 2.5 = good?

Rear is 5" stroke. Springs are 3" stroke. 1/2" from bump and 1.5" from extended top hat. 5 - 2 = 3 = good?
Ideally you want the spring seated at full droop and unbound at full bump. That means the extended top hats don't matter. They don't change your total shock stroke, they just change the ratio of bump travel to droop travel. So you're a bit short on spring travel on both ends.

The question here is whether you're short enough to actually cause a problem, and I don't have an answer to that. I can tell you that binding and unseating can both cause shock loads on the circlip, though, and we've seen that they can't handle much of that.

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I'm not in a place where I can do the math right now but trimming the 75# springs should get you closer to a 100# rate right?
I don't see how trimming linear springs could change the spring rate. Wire material and thickness hasn't changed, ID hasn't changed, and wind angle hasn't changed.
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:49 PM   #188
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Quote:
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I don't see how trimming linear springs could change the spring rate. Wire material and thickness hasn't changed, ID hasn't changed, and wind angle hasn't changed.
Because math. There's a formula. Google.
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:50 PM   #189
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Well... wouldn't the hats matter since they're keeping things seated for an extra 1" and 1.5" under full droop, respectively?
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Old 07-02-2014, 02:24 PM   #190
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Quote:
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Because math. There's a formula. Google.
Apparently you're right. Wizardry and ****. So yeah, cutting the 5" 75# spring down to 3" would make it about 125#

Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Well... wouldn't the hats matter since they're keeping things seated for an extra 1" and 1.5" under full droop, respectively?
They make things better for droop, but worse for bump. I mean, your shock rod is still going to travel 5", wherever it mounts in the car. There's no lever between it and the spring, so the spring is always going to have to compress exactly the same amount as the shock rod travels.
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:16 PM   #191
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These inexpensive helpers are intriguing, I want to add these to my FCM coilovers. The front springs at full droop are not a good situation currently.

Last edited by Lincoln Logs; 07-02-2014 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:05 PM   #192
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Now for the big springs. These are the cheapest I've been able to find at $58 shipped for a pair. They've got a decent selection of these, too. Does anyone have a source for cheaper springs stiff enough for the front?
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:29 PM   #193
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Yep, those are cheap. Stance springs from TougeFactory, huh? Makes me want to stick a rusty nail in my eye.

Somebody needs to market some called HellaBoing.

I'll keep getting Summit Racing's house brand for a couple of bucks more.
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:42 PM   #194
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eBay China springs on the front to match my eBay China springs on the back. I can't imagine bargain bin QA1 or Summit house brand springs are any better. Cheap **** is cheap ****.
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:21 AM   #195
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I'm curious what you guys are using to keep the helper springs seated squarely over the springs (rather than have them moving side to side)

PAC Racing Coilover Tender Springs - Starting at $24.95
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:30 AM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etikoner View Post
I'm curious what you guys are using to keep the helper springs seated squarely over the springs (rather than have them moving side to side)

PAC Racing Coilover Tender Springs - Starting at $24.95
If you're running square end springs why would they move? Especially as they're always in compression. Put a bearing in between them and you can always put a zip tie around the two ends to hold them if you think it needs it.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:13 PM   #197
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RTV? Where's it going to go with 200 lbs of preload on it at full droop?
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Old 07-08-2014, 01:00 PM   #198
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Who has preload at full droop even with helpers? I have maybe 10lbs of preload in the back with the 150lb helpers and they're not even in contact in the front (xidas though).
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Old 07-08-2014, 01:26 PM   #199
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I will. With 13" of spring I don't see how no preload could be possible.
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Old 07-08-2014, 01:32 PM   #200
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Quote:
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I will. With 13" of spring I don't see how no preload could be possible.


Oh we Trophy Truck now!
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