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Old 04-19-2014, 12:21 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post

The regular HD in the middle has way too much rebound and no compression. I can see that they are designed to jack down to the bumpstops and stay stuck there on stockish springs.
Actually, NB HDs have the most reasonable valving of any of the Bilsteins. Hard S is just the best of the OE billies, which all have massive rebound damping.

Note that NA HDs have very different valving from NB HDs (it looks like that's what you have in your comparison), and Sports have the same valving as HDs except with a 1" shorter shock body.
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Old 04-19-2014, 12:37 PM   #62
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Are you guys locking the collar to the shock body, or letting it float on the ring?
The locking Allen screws that came with the cheap eBay kit are to long and will interfere with the spring. No big deal to find smaller hex screws, just wondering.
Btw, same as Jake, the bearings won't fit over the perch. Since it's cheap, I'll have my machinist lathe the perches down a little to get them on.
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Old 04-19-2014, 03:03 PM   #63
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Let the collars float, no biggie, ran 10 sets that way
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Old 04-19-2014, 08:40 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SchmoozerJoe View Post
PS. If you are a Mazdaspeed member, your price on these are like $103 fr/$90 rear.

I know it isn't talked about much, but it's very cost effective to join their program.
Damn, that's cheap for them! Reasonable? I'd say so!
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Let the collars float, no biggie, ran 10 sets that way
+Juan Valdez.

Set screws can dent and damage the shock tube if overtightereneded.
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:24 PM   #65
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Boom - Install was easy. No more Grave-Digger wheel gap:



For reference I'm on 10AE Hard S w/ 450 7" F & 300 7" R w/ NB tophats.

Have it set at roughly 12.5" F and 13.0" R. I figure that's just under 5" at the pinchwelds, but that's not a great place to measure on my car. Anyway, that's about as low as I'm comfortable going on these sleeves as I don't want to completely bottom out the threads. It doesn't rub anywhere and it's enough drop to get me to the recommended heights for the "dual duty" 949 alignment. I'm pretty sure 6" springs would be fine, especially with higher rates. Here's where they're set (about this many threads left on all four corners):



As far as driving impressions go, I haven't pushed it too hard because of rain and still needing an alignment, but it's a huge improvement over 150k mi Showas . The car feels so much more planted (grounded to the ground anyone?) and just eats up small bumps. Big bumps are another story; gets really bouncy and it's not pleasant - not kidney destroying harshness - more like seasickness inducing bounciness. Not a big deal unless you drive in Iowa or do a lot of off-roading. I can tell I definitely need more front bar, this is a loose set-up with OEM sways. Also planning on another set of 949 endlinks for the rear, you can see in the pic that there is some pretty bad pre-load going on.

Summary: if you're not happy with your suspension, and are looking for a budget solution, do this. It's affordable and easy. Don't over-think it.
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:03 AM   #66
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FWIW

I ordered collars/springs from this seller; Acura Honda coilover lowering Springs 96 00 Civic 94 Integra EK Em DC2 EF9 JDM | eBay which was posted earlier.

The springs, based on the measurements should be 370 - 380 lbs (all the same sizes so all the same rate). Color is silver so based on previous I wouldn't assume color = rates with all the ebay sellers. I'm using Summit springs anyway.

Quality is OK (for the price).

The Torrington bearings fit fine.



I'll try and get them together over the weekend
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Old 04-27-2014, 08:52 AM   #67
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^^ seems to be the way to go. $42 and bearings fit. Win
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:49 AM   #68
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Is having torringtons awesome enough to ditch the sleeves i already have to buy those?
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:56 AM   #69
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I don't have any basis for comparison, and it could be contributed to changes in alignment from lowering the car, but it's noticeably easier to turn my de-powered rack at low speeds with my new set-up.
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Old 04-28-2014, 10:43 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Is having torringtons awesome enough to ditch the sleeves i already have to buy those?
If what you have is already on the car I wouldn't. IMHO the only reason for using is ease of adjustment.
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:48 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bahurd View Post
If what you have is already on the car I wouldn't. IMHO the only reason for using is ease of adjustment.

Not on the car yet, but i already bought the same sleeves as OP.


If there's no difference while driving, then i don't care.
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:01 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Not on the car yet, but i already bought the same sleeves as OP.


If there's no difference while driving, then i don't care.
Not sure what the perch diameter is on the OP sleeves so measured the ones I got (and the bearing ID) for you. Pics below;





Hope that helps.

I don't think you'd notice it driving but I think having something like an isolator (or the bearings) would help keep the aluminum perch from getting chewed up from dirt and other crap but I don't know.
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:19 PM   #73
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What's the fascination with torrington bearings suddenly?
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Old 04-28-2014, 12:22 PM   #74
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Near as i can tell, it's because Xidas have them? I guess?
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Old 04-28-2014, 01:03 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
Is having torringtons awesome enough to ditch the sleeves i already have to buy those?
They keep the springs from binding against the perches. The concern from a performance standpoint is that depending on which way you turn the perch, if the spring is bound it will twist the coil and make it wider or narrower, changing the spring rate. As long as you use spring compressors to take the load off the perches while changing the ride height, there's no need for them. Even just cranking on the perches with the springs bound is probably not going the deform the spring enough to cause problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrambles View Post
I don't have any basis for comparison, and it could be contributed to changes in alignment from lowering the car, but it's noticeably easier to turn my de-powered rack at low speeds with my new set-up.
There's no torsional load on the damper in a double wishbone setup. Alignment is a likely cause of a change in steering effort, spring binding is not.
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Old 04-28-2014, 01:25 PM   #76
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Actually the springs do rotate a little as they compress. Or so they taught us in that there engineering school.
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Old 04-28-2014, 01:33 PM   #77
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Actually the springs do rotate a little as they compress. Or so they taught us in that there engineering school.
The problem as I understand it is the other way around. I'm not saying they don't rotate as they compress, just that preventing them from twisting shouldn't be a problem. It's causing them to twist that's the issue.
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:11 PM   #78
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Where are you homeslices getting these Torrington bearings? Do they come w/ your kit? Link?
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:16 PM   #79
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^Your answer is below.

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Old 04-28-2014, 02:18 PM   #80
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The cost hasn't even changed I'll have mine tomorrow, gotta work on something while waiting for that 949 PP. Oi.
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