Alright after all this ish, getting ready to order things.

I have MSM billies. Re: the above conversation about pricing. I paid 200 for a set with about 70k miles on them. Hoping to recoup a bit of money selling the springs because I'm guessing someone on mnet or the internet will want them. I hope. Saw a sold listing on ebay for 125, so I'm hopeful I'll get atleast a 100 for them to help offload the cost of the suspension.

Ordering:
2xSummit 2.5x7inch springs @300lbs/in
2xSummit 2.5x7inch springs @450lbs/in
1xAdvanced Autosport 4 inch coilover sleeve and nut kit: https://www.advanced-autosports.com/...sleeve-and-nut
4x Spring isolators from summit
4x torrington bearings
4x honda bumpstops (rec from stephanst)

Sound like I've got everything covered?

 

You might want to go with 300/500. What sway bars are you going to use?

 

Would delrin spring washers have any benefit over torrington bearings, not needing to be greased and all?

 

Depends on how much you think the whole spring needs to rotate thing is an issue. I don't run either..... Works just fine, could it possibly make my 800/ 450 springs behave like 812/ 455 rates?...... Maybe but I can't tell and it's consistent.

If you want them I'd get delrin for a street car, you aren't going to want to grease the bearings after every couple of rain storms.

 

Since they are MSMs, you might consider extended top hats.

 

I would recommend checking if your spring isolators come in pack of twos or not. I ordered 4 quantity and ended up with 8!

 

If you're planning on delrin instead of thrust washers, the sleeve locator nuts have a .275" high X 2.470" Ø shoulder that locates the springs. Any delrin shim with a hub likely won't fit over the shoulder. You'll need to either find a flat delrin washer or turn the nut upside down which might take away from ride height you can attain with 7" springs (basically, the nut will be .275" further up the sleeve to still engage the threads fully).

Some people try and cut the hub off the delrin locator (the stuff isn't that easy to cut even with a sharp razor knife).

Look for a delrin washer with 2.50"ID X 3.450"OD± X .125"THK ±

Just an FYI.

 

Currently on stock ish. Unsure what direction I'm going to take, but I'll probably get something used if it pops up on the classifieds here.

https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...7/#post1380076

That's why I was going with 300/450. Any particular reason why you recommend the 500?

Spoonfeed plz. Is this because of the longer MSM shocks? I'm not trying to get the car super low. I'd like to get just a little below stock ride height. I have 16's right now, so I would likely stay at stock for a bit longer.

 

Just a general perception from reading through the various posts the ratio of Rear to Front should be close to .6 is all. I guess the other question is what you plan on using the car for. Far be it from me to move you away from what Savington told you.

Carry on...

 

Yes, the MSM shock bodies are longer, there is a plot in one of the earlier pages of this thread. It's always something you can play with and upgrade down the road. An easy thing to do, (and you will want to do it anyway to set bumpstop length) is to install the shock without the spring, and see how much travel you get by jacking the wheel up. Or drive it, and if you hit the bump stops a lot, then upgrade the top hats. 5X racing, and ISC racing both sell a version of this, or you can DIY stock top hats them fairly easy. I forget, do you have an NA, or NB?

 

I realized I didn't add thrust washers in my list, so I should add 16 of these, correct?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/art-70010828

Not planning on going delrin anytime soon honestly. I'm not a track junkie and this car is going to be mostly street duty with a few autox courses thrown in there for fun if I have time. Just the regular thrust washers above are adequate, right?

I have an NB1 (2000). I didn't know they were 'required' for an NB as well. Thought that was an NA thing.

This is my first build and I thought this would be a good learning experience, re: suspension. Not trying to go crazy with it, but I'm also not opposed to spending money on things that are required or 'highly recommended'.

 

You should use traditional coilover isolators for the top (with a locating hub to stay in the spring) and these for the bottom (assuming they're the right dimension, I don't see the dims on Ridetech site). You need 4 top locators and 4 bottom if using the Ridetech stuff. Check package qty when buying.

 

Whoops, I meant 8 not 16. It said to use one above and below. I see now that these are used at the top: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-6103r

Thanks!

 

You only need 4 not 8. And 4 of the Energy suspension isolators.

 

Yeah, I originally meant 8 where I said 16, but now know I need 4 based on your earlier post. I'm seriously failing at communicating today...

 

RTC, if your car is mostly street I will recommend staying with the 450 rates in front with those shocks, especially with the added unsprung weight of 16in wheels. 300's should be fine in back if you have a big front sway bar.

 

The car will be mostly street (want to autocross it a bit), but the 16's are going to be replaced sooner rather than later. I'm actually going to sell a lightweight flywheel I have as well as the sport brake front kit to put into the wheel fund because I think that's it a better use of funds at this point.

I'll look into adding a bigger front sway bar down the line. I'll get everything together for the order. Looking forward to having these built!

 

Does anyone have a source for the snap rings used on the bilstein shocks? Summit is sold out and the only place I can find with a reasonable shipping charge is autoplicity and they seem sketchy.

 

Have you tried contacting Bilstein directly?

 

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