So.. I got a message from Stefanst with a link to amazon for it. I didn't look there because I didn't think they'd have it... Haha.
It's the only place I didn't check...
Thanks for the help!

And for future reference for anyone that needs it:

 

Cool imaginary props to him.

 

Should I torque the top nut all the way down or just enough to squish the bushing?
Also, is it better if the spring isolator and the top hat are screwed together?

 

If using the stock top bushings they have a torque spec; 23-34 ft/lbs

I don't think anyone worries about fastening the top isolator to the top hat.

 

Stealing someone's list...

It's an 03 SE that I've been running for ~3 years with:
HDs
MSM springs
36/46 bumpstops
FM front/rear swaybars

The car is mostly used for autox now, and I would would prefer performance vs comfort.

Are the 450/300 springs still a good starting point, or should I go stiffer?

 

I was under the impression that said spring rates were for the MSM shocks.

 

I have 450/300 on HD's for an 02 DR. They work pretty well, would be even better with bigger sways up front (I'm on stock for now)

 

450/300 are good with those sways (same as mine ) with street tires. If you start running SM Hoosiers or other really sticky rubber they won't be able to keep the car off of the bump stops in the track turns. I had to go up to 550/350 and the car is busier over rough roads because of it, but very tight and responsive on smoother pavement.

 

Hmm, I was planning on picking up a set of R888, nt01, etc for auto crossing. The local club uses a 'points' system rather than scca rules. Under 200TW tires are just another ~3 points(springs are 2 points)

Wheels/tires would be 15x6.5 and 195 or 205 tire width.

 

I don't think that wheel/tire setup is going to have anywhere near as much grip as the 205's on 8's or 225's on 9's that folks are running. More so if they're running hoosiers etc.

 

15X6.5 195 205 TW200 should be fine with 450/300 depending upon ride height.

 

I had FCM 500/375 with RB NB1 front bar on my 02. It worked well with street tires, RA1, and NT01 on race tracks. I use 205/50/R15. I never autocrossed that set up. NT01 ought to do well with your set up as the grip is good at all temperatures but not too much for the springs. I also added in the stock rear bar later which had negligible difference. I was driving faster and wanted less roll. Shaikh said my valving could go as high as 600/450 which I did. It is a bit under damped now, but it corners flatter now and I prefer it. I switched to Hankook Ventus 214 C51 and found that the grip now lifts the front inside wheel a lot. Now I want more spring and less bar!

 

I finally drove my 2003 yesterday with NB billies, 450# fronts and 300# rears with ISC top hats in the back. I have the front set at about 12.5" and the rear at 13" to start. I noticed the front right spring is rubbing on the coilover sleeve and wearing the metal off. This is after a couple miles. I raised the car slightly, the spring seems to have a little play compared to the other 3 corners and I'm unsure why. It is a stock NB top hat with the stock isolator. Any idea why only that side would get rubbing? I tried to position the spring centered and then lower the car to make sure its loaded in the right spot, but it immediately shifts and starts to rub. Am I missing something simple?

 

What springs (Brand + part #)
What coilover sleeves?

 

Springs are QA1-7HT450 on the front, QA1-7HT300 on the rear.
AAF-ALL64162 sleeves cut down 2" in the rear for ISC top hats, normal length in the front.
ART-70010828 Spring Seat washer.
Where the rubbing is on the front uses stock NB top hats with the stock rubber spring seat.

 

All four of mine wore down on the coilover sleeve. Summit racing house brand springs and Advanced Autosport sleeves. Seems to have stopped after a month or so.

 

You'll get this because the springs aren't perfectly flat on the bottom and there is no locating detent at the top. I found if I rotate the spring till it's leaning away from the rubbed area it's all good.

 

Interesting. That makes sense, I can try to rotate it and then set the weight of the car down to see if it doesnt move. I figured there would be enough clearance to not have this happen but the explanation makes sense. I will give it a shot and see what happens.

 

Interesting. That makes sense, I can try to rotate it and then set the weight of the car down to see if it doesnt move. I figured there would be enough clearance to not have this happen but the explanation makes sense. I will give it a shot and see what happens.

Double post sorry

 

One other question. NB billie, ISC 1.5" rear hats, 7" 300lb springs in the back, approx 36mm bumps. I am getting an impact over larger abrupt bumps. Last night I took the wheels off, loosened the control arms and raised everything looking for impacts. I hit the bump stops, start to lift the car off the jacks, at that point i still have another 1/4" before control arms hit the body or the coil over sleeve gets near the extended hat. I am running at about 13" in the rear hub to fender.

This seems off, some other members have been able to get 12.5" or lower in the rear with proper comfortable ride. I am higher than them, and still hitting something. Is there something that sounds off with my set up? Or is the only solution to raise the car/add bump stops? When the car is on the ground I have just over an inch of exposed shock shaft before the bump stop.