Thucydides

All true, Bronson, if the lathe is big enough. I've got a Sherline mini-lathe, and for all I know it might not have enough throw to take the washer. My back-up plan to modify the washers is to chuck them to, and spin them on, a drill, then take the spinning washer on the drill and run it against my fairly large bench grinder. It it doesn't all fly apart and take out my jugular, or my eyes, I think I have a pretty good chance of taking down the washer uniformly. What do you think? Is it viable? Any preference on the Allstar, 5XRacing, or some other good quality coilover?

The other thing about that lower washer is how close, or far, is it from fitting within a 2.5" spring. If it's close, perhaps it's worth modifying. If it's way off, I'll visit Home Depot and take the easy way out. That's kind of the deciding factor, and the only thing I'm waiting on to order the NB top hats, bushings, and retainers. Priority Mazda has them for roughly $150 shipped, PartsVP is a bit less.

Bronson M

iTrader: (1)

Yeah if you're not comfortable doing the machine work I'd probably lean towards the 5x sleeves just because of the price.

On the washer I cut the lip down flush with the sides of the cup, probably 1/8" removed all around.

Thucydides

Darth Maulata

When I was fitting the ISC top hats to the NB Bilstiens I ran into a similar problem. The cupped bump-stop-bushing-washer-thing would not fit into the opening in the top hat. I took a thick piece of steel and drilled out my own washer with a hole saw. I had to open up the center hole to fit the shock shaft with a stepped bit (which also chamfered the edge a bit). They are thicker than the OEM parts, so far so good.

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

Or you could've read the beginning of the thread + gone to Home Depot and picked up some stock flat washers like in Post #3 Dont use that bump stop washer cup

Thucydides

Damn duplicate post!

Thucydides

That was a hell of a hole saw to go through steel like that and not dull; good to have quality tools.

I could have, and I did, which is why I asked the question about the lower washer in the first place, but there's more satisfaction in making and modifying your own parts to work than schlepping down to Home Depot for the easy way out. Of course there's probably better than even odds I end up going that way anyhow, but not before blood is spilled.

Bronson M

iTrader: (1)

I personally like the cup better because it keeps the super soft bump stops on have from bulging out too much. Plus it takes just a few minutes on the lathe.

Thucydides

Kinda what I was thinking also. The shape's not by accident.

I'm presently looking at bumps tops and wondering why four little foam bumpers with holes drilled through them cost $100. I'm wanting something comfortable and progressive. Intergra Speedthane ($18 each), Ground Control ($12 each), ??? In the absence of good evidence to go expensive, I'm inclined to Ground Control (German made, ausgezeichnet!)

Darth Maulata

True. However, I find that my Big Box stores only ever have 3 of the 4 things I need....

Darth Maulata

Based on my research across a few different forums, I went with the bumps listed below. Keep in mind, I am still in 4x4 stage with stock NB springs!

http://store.resuspension.com/

OHLINS BUMP RUBBER
Bump Rubber 16/47/36 PUR 650. 1.42" h x 1.85" w

- - - - - - - - -

OHLINS BUMP RUBBER
Bump Rubber 16/49/50 PUR 650. 1.968" h x 1.93" w

Darth Maulata

It's a pretty average Craftsman Hole saw kit. Used a drill press, which does make all the difference! Keep it slow, add a little cutting oil and off you go.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Cleaning the chips is the key. Hole saws dont have really any chip clearing ability so if you dont clear the chips manually you'll make a ton of heat and smoke it. You can make tons of metal holes with literally any brand bi-metal hole saw if you treat it right.

Thucydides

For anyone interested in current prices, so far I've ordered the following:

Bump stops, Ground Control (soft, shocks), $58.48
Spring isolators, Energy Suspension 9.6103, $22.62
Mazda OEM NB top hats, upper and lower bumpers, upper and lower washers, top hat Teflon sheets, Priority Mazda, $132.60
NB Bilsteins, Tire Rack (on back-order until sometime in March), $408
5XRacing coil over sleeves, $128.45

All of the above prices include shipping and California sales tax. The total to date is $750.15

I still need to order springs, which will likely be Hyperco or Swift. All told I should be into this for around a grand, more or less.

Swift publishes the usable stroke of their springs, but it appears Hyperco does not, so that's a bit of a problem. Anyone know where I can get tech info for Hyperco springs? I've emailed them but they haven't responded.

Bronson M

iTrader: (1)

I hate to discourage anyone from seeking data.....that's the best way to go about most issues. Cliff notes: any commercially available 6" or longer spring will have enough travel to work on a Miata.

Thucydides

Thanks Bronson M. What you say is true for most applications, but I'll be using, ahem, non-standard rates by Miataturbo standards. Google Moki Dugway or Waucoba Road for clues...

While I'm here, the "soft, shock" bump stops I got from Ground Control are just under 54 mm long ($12 each plus shipping, $58.48 total).

Junkwhale

I think you'll struggle to get a setup that will coil-bind a hyperco/eibach etc in usual sizes for OTS/OEM bilsteins - in most cases you'll run out of shock travel. Or wheel travel (into your chassis).

Eibach catalog here has block heights etc: https://eibach.com/us/rt-2-catalog-downloads.html IIRC i've seen a catalogue / similar thing for hypercoils & their OBD springs had marginally more travel for the same rates as the eibach ones.

Thucydides

Thanks for those links, Junkwhale, they'll come in handy.

I'm considering front spring rates in the 175 to 200 lbs/in range; rears in the 125 to 150 range. Static compresson
Is very roughly 5" or so, before compression travel. The other issue I'm struggling with is that I'm aiming for a nominal 14.5" front ride height with 1.5" up and down adjustment from the spring perch. To get all of those parameters I've got to choose spring length pretty closely. I'm trying to avoid making this an iterative process as that can become expensive. Things should be easier once I've gotten the shocks and can make accurate measurements.

JoeTheZoe

iTrader: (1)

So you basically want stock spring rates and stock ride height. No need for adjustment collars and 2.5" springs. Just grab a stock set from those below (for cheap). Shoot, just buy a complete NB setup with the hats and all, the bumpstops you want, and spring spacers if any of these run too low for you.
NB base springs: 162 front, 118 rear
NB HARD S: 168 front, 130 rear
NB MSM: 215 front, 158 rear

HarryB

I have been looking for a fairly soft, compliant setup that can handle potholes and broken pavement well myself. 350/250 work well for that type of duty to my experience.