Brake Booster Delete
#42
Bias adjustment is done by rotating the threaded balance bar which changes the pivot point and changes how the force is divided between the front and rear masters. You don't need a hydraulic bias adjuster like what normal miatas run.
#45
keeping this thread alive, this is how far ive gone.
i did a plate in aluminum to close the ugly hole, powder-coated wrinkle black (its what was on the gun at the time)
now, i am replacing all the ugly hardline with stainless braided lines for a cleaner look.
i may hide them inside the firewall.
upload image by url
i did a plate in aluminum to close the ugly hole, powder-coated wrinkle black (its what was on the gun at the time)
now, i am replacing all the ugly hardline with stainless braided lines for a cleaner look.
i may hide them inside the firewall.
upload image by url
#46
keeping this thread alive, this is how far ive gone.
i did a plate in aluminum to close the ugly hole, powder-coated wrinkle black (its what was on the gun at the time)
now, i am replacing all the ugly hardline with stainless braided lines for a cleaner look.
i may hide them inside the firewall.
upload image by url
i did a plate in aluminum to close the ugly hole, powder-coated wrinkle black (its what was on the gun at the time)
now, i am replacing all the ugly hardline with stainless braided lines for a cleaner look.
i may hide them inside the firewall.
upload image by url
#48
so, after the setup and bleding, i feel like the car doens't brake enough. i know it would will be hard to press, but i cna't even lock up the tires no matter how hard i step on the brakes.
can someone confirm this?
0.7 for the rear calipers
0.625 for the front...or do i have them backwards?
can someone confirm this?
0.7 for the rear calipers
0.625 for the front...or do i have them backwards?
#49
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Swansea, Wales (NOT england) - UK.
Posts: 128
Total Cats: 34
so, after the setup and bleding, i feel like the car doens't brake enough. i know it would will be hard to press, but i cna't even lock up the tires no matter how hard i step on the brakes.
can someone confirm this?
0.7 for the rear calipers
0.625 for the front...or do i have them backwards?
can someone confirm this?
0.7 for the rear calipers
0.625 for the front...or do i have them backwards?
I've built a bias pedalbox for my '91 Eunos (Mx5) but wanted to keep a sensible pedal feel, this I did by altering the pedal ratio
standard Mazda pedal ratio is to suit a servo-assisted system so doesnt lend itself for 'keep-fit' braking!
this was done by cutting the pedal and hortening it to achieve the desired ratio and repositioning the pivot-point in the pedalbox to suit...
there was aditional work as I wanted to recreate the origonal pedal-pad 'swing' and allow the ballancebar to 'swing' in as gentle an arc as possible so the cylinder pushrods didn't 'bind' when entering the cylinder...
I cannot remember the measurements and dimensions - they are written somewhere but....
some details in my M5's thread...
https://mighty5s.com/post/45038/thread
the evolution of pedals (top standard)
test-assembly in the 'dummy' bulkhead (cut from a scrap bodyshell)
how the cylinders are mounted.
.625" front
.7" rear
another view, can see the plumbing, I've used self-assembled braided hose and running the front passanger as well as the rear in through the bulkhead with the passanger side re emerging above the innerwing to run to the wheelarch.
^^work in progress so as yet untested
Rich.
#51
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Swansea, Wales (NOT england) - UK.
Posts: 128
Total Cats: 34
I strted by drawing the pedal's 'swing' on paper, fixed the pivot and pencil on the footpad. then with my desired ratio drew the diferent swing - I 'doglegged' the pedal to correct the swing and redrilled the pivot-point lower & foreward on the pedalbox to account for this (the origonal pivot hole position is visable on the strengthening sideplate I welded onto the modified pedalbox)
sorta
Rich.
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