all these devices that connect the drivetrain (trans, motor, diff) to the chassis seem to **** in the face of the intentions of the miata's power plant frame.

 

Sample is being made, should be ready next week to test fit.

 

Good to hear. I was beginning to give up.
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two weeks later... was it fit?

 

OK, but do they work?

 

Sitting on desk. Dimensionally, yes it should fit. Once I can get the car up I will test fit it. Bachelor party @ NJMP over the weekend, no time to test.

 

mail it to me, ill put it in

 

troo. when are these going to be sold? I'm jonesin'

 

something i didnt see in this thread is traction bars that mount underneath the doors and go back towards the rear end to prevent tire hop...

 

so essentially, you're looking for a stiffy?

 

I installed (finally) my frame rails yesterday (Stein design by TravisR)...


AND i ABSOLUTELY ******* LOVE THEM.

I'm running around with nothing but a bucket and harness bar in the interior...no dash, nothing under the dash, no carpet, no insulation, no package shelf panels, no door cards. It's a tub...so I REALLY noticed how much it quietened things down.

Suspension seems less busy, although it's actually doing it's job more. May more predictable at the limit. Much more comfortable and overall solid feel. Nearly non-existant cowl shake as well, which is what I was considering frogarms for. Took less than 3 hrs to put in...don't know why the hell I left them sitting there for 3 months waiting to drill a few holes.

Another testament for these in the "works" category.



ps. Forgot to really check or think about it...but didn't notice the 65mph shimmy anymore during my usual 75 mile varied pavement commute.

 

hhmm how about rust about the holes you drilled? did you paint them or what?

 

Yes....that's why it took 3 hrs...half that time was spent fixing dented OEM rails, waiting on paint to dry, and recharging cordless drill battery.

I fit both rails after "straightening" stock rails, drilled guide holes, and held them on with bolts.

I then drilled ALL driver's side holes, put battery on charger, and removed rail. I hit the top of each hole with grinding wheel and sand paper, and scraped and sanded bottom. Then hit with primer and gloss black. Let this dry while drilling passenger side holes. Repeat for passenger side and come back and replace and bolt up driver's rail while it's drying. Put in driver's seat, then do passenger rail.

This job could be done faster...but I highly recommend dressing the holes well or your "stiffness" gain may fade over time...

If I could do it again and wasn't pushed for study time I would have added a little silicone to each of the bottom washers before tightening to make them watertight.

 

buy some liquid electric tape and paint them. That will create a water tight seal. Thats how i made my old jeep's electric connections waterproof. I've taken that thing in 4 ft of water with many of my connectors way underneath the water and no problems at all.

 

I'm really not too worried about it...but that's a good idea.

I live in Texas...and although I did drive through one flood last spring, it ruined my carpet and I don't plan on getting out in too much water again.

The painting/dressing should keep rust at bay...and sealant would be strictly for protecting carpet and insulation from getting too wet.

 

That dramatic, huh? I think you just moved them up to the top of my "need to buy" parts list, after I install what I've got.

 

Yes...that dramatic.

The harness bar did a little...the rollbar did a good bit...but these slap you in the face with difference the first time around the block.

I just marked door bars off the list, and put frong arms and 3-point STB further down.

This is stiff enough for me for a while.

 

Here in the rust belt, it is necesarry to take every precaution possible.

 

Just installed my rails today. I got a set of NIB boundary rails from a forum member. I as well am running without carpet. It's amazing how much quieter the car is.

I could tell a difference just sitting in the car. It must have changed the stance of the car. Tightened on jack stands, so the car doesn't sag when on its wheels.

Driving was much different. It's hard to describe the way the car feels after the frame rails. The car feels "together" now. It also doesn't sound like a ghetto rattle trap.

I didn't do any performance driving. Just went the grocery store and back.

Anyway, another +1 for rails. At 129 0r 139 shipped from boundary. i think everyone should have a set.

 

You guys think thats something, wait until you add a butterfly section. You'll notice a change driving up your driveway....If its on a hill atleast