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Old 06-02-2011, 10:48 PM   #1
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Default Did I install these Racelands correct? Pics inside.

I bought a set of used NB Racelands already installed on NB top hats. I got the fronts done, just swapped the whole assembly out and put in the Racelands with NB top hats. When it came to the rear, I couldn't get the original NA top hats out. The bolts were rusted terribly. So I just left the NA top hat in, took the NB top hat off the NB Racelands, and put the combo on the NA tophat. I ended up not using the black Raceland retainer on top of the main spring, and just centered the spring onto the top hat and tightened things up. Then in the trunk I used a part from the NB top hat to act like a washer and hold then tightened the top strut bolt on. When there is no load on the suspension (car jacked up with no wheels), I can wiggle the main spring around with a little force. Do you guys see any problem with this or anything else? I'll probably do the other side the same way then drive around to see how it feels.

Here are the pics. Don't mind the rust


IMG_9097 by _spyder, on Flickr


IMG_9100 by _spyder, on Flickr


IMG_9098 by _spyder, on Flickr
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:56 PM   #2
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I wouldn't want that spring floating around on the top hat, get a spring isolator. Or take the top nuts off and use the NB hat you have like the front. You're loosing an inch of travel with that top hat anyways, since the shock shaft has to go an inch or so past the spring mount before being bolted in.
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Old 06-02-2011, 11:31 PM   #3
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I wouldn't want that spring floating around on the top hat, get a spring isolator. Or take the top nuts off and use the NB hat you have like the front. You're loosing an inch of travel with that top hat anyways, since the shock shaft has to go an inch or so past the spring mount before being bolted in.
I'm not sure what a spring isolator is, got a pic or link?

And I've tried for 2 days straight trying to get the top hat nuts off on both the rear ones, but nothing would work. I've tried ratchets, air tools, power tools, drill bits, WD-40, PB Blaster, etc. Nothing worked... I'm sure you can see the rust in the pics. I'm mainly concerned about safety and if it's safe, I'm happy.
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:25 AM   #4
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Last item on this page:
http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_Kon...ts_NA.htm#bump
Glued with super glue to the bottom of NB mounts, although I'm not sure they'll work with NA mounts. They fit very tight in the NB mount, all the glue does is keep it from bouncing around, not sure it'd work the same with NA mounts.
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Old 06-03-2011, 03:23 AM   #5
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I know you said, "Dont mind the rust" but, I can't.......
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Old 06-03-2011, 04:05 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by curly View Post
Last item on this page:
http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_Kon...ts_NA.htm#bump
Glued with super glue to the bottom of NB mounts, although I'm not sure they'll work with NA mounts. They fit very tight in the NB mount, all the glue does is keep it from bouncing around, not sure it'd work the same with NA mounts.
It doesn't look like those will fit the NA top hats. I'll rock what I have now and keep an eye on it. I'll be picking up some rubber washers to place in the trunk to stop the brass big washer thing from making noise.

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I know you said, "Dont mind the rust" but, I can't.......
I can't either. It sucks... alot. Damn Wisconsin.
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Old 06-03-2011, 09:41 AM   #7
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I wouldn't worry about isolators too much.


is tha tpic of the tophat mount your rears you cannot remove? you had konis?
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:33 AM   #8
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if the NA tophats were rusted so badly and you have nb top mounts why dont you just keep turning the bolt till it breaks and then give it a hit and pop it out.

lol @ people posting online instead of doing things.
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:03 AM   #9
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Come on.



Kroil that bitch and hit it with a ******* sledge.
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:05 AM   #10
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Holy hell, that **** is rusty man. How many miles on that?

Also, since you have the spare mounts, mount the top hat in a vice, clamp it HARD, put wrench on, and beat the ever living **** out of it.
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:44 PM   #11
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It sucks... alot. Damn Wisconsin.
Mine looks the same.....Pittsburgh car. Grrr....
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:27 PM   #12
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Are you using a deep socket? A standard socket will barely grip the top of the nut, and easily slip off. My craftsman metric deep socket set has proven to be invaluable, they're often the only sockets I use.
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Old 06-04-2011, 12:15 AM   #13
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Use 5 foot pipe and snap that bitch
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Old 06-04-2011, 08:35 PM   #14
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Find someone with air tools, or use the Walmart return policy.
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Old 06-04-2011, 08:47 PM   #15
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HA! You're not getting an air tool in there. MAYBE if you took off the gas tubes, but that's a pain. I used my rotating socket for the passenger side, angle is too obtuse on the driver's side.
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:33 AM   #16
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you can with universals. Almost positive I've hit mine before with an impact using two universals.
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:48 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
HA! You're not getting an air tool in there. MAYBE if you took off the gas tubes, but that's a pain. I used my rotating socket for the passenger side, angle is too obtuse on the driver's side.
Disconnect the mount at the top of the gas tubes and fold them down.
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Old 06-05-2011, 12:41 PM   #18
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How about just use a bigass pry bar and rip that hole open x10.
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Old 06-05-2011, 05:09 PM   #19
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Can definitely get into both sides with a universal joint and extension and some determination.
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Old 06-13-2011, 01:22 AM   #20
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well did you manage to get it fixed? and how do you like them
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