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Old 08-29-2008, 09:55 PM   #41
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Tilton all the way!!!
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Old 08-29-2008, 10:22 PM   #42
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expensive.
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Old 08-30-2008, 10:58 AM   #43
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i don't get spending the extra money for a 1.8 setup, act is rated at 277 for the 1.6, i don't even think there is anyone who is regular on this board making that much torque. it's also simple to drive after like 5 minutes of use, and seemed to get easier after it's fully broken in.

i've also had a centerforce cfdf in my 97 eclipse gst, never really pushed the power envelope in that car as it became my ex's daily, which should tell you something being she was 5'1" and about 100 pounds and she had no problem with it
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Old 08-30-2008, 01:10 PM   #44
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Quote:
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act is rated at 277 for the 1.6
Which is true.

I guess I will pick up the ZM1-XTMM. I don't track the car (just auto-x) so I highly doubt I will overpower it. Best of all it comes in under budget which lets me replace the slave and the rest of the seals at the same time.
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Old 09-08-2008, 11:11 AM   #45
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Any thoughts from anyone on the Spec clutches?

I have been reading more and more that the ACT engages very close to the floor, which is obviously very different from the stock. I dont think I would like that.

What other clutches, should I consider?
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Old 09-08-2008, 11:46 AM   #46
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A lot will tell you that SPEC clutches suck *****. I've got a 1.6 Stage 2 that has seen a greddy turbo at 15psi and now a 2554r based set up at 15psi. All is good. I guess the only negative I found was autocrossing and doing many runs pretty much back to back. The clutch lost the crisp engagement as it got hot. Once it had time to rest and cool it came back. Aside from that it's never slipped, and I really wouldn't call what it was doing slipping ... just getting soft.

I've got a light flywheel as well. Drivability with this combo is sweet, clutch feels like OEM in terms of pedal effort and engagement.

I would recommend SPEC for sure. If I have to pull the transmission off this winter I'm going to replace my stage 2 disk with a stage 3. Just for that little piece of mind.
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Old 09-08-2008, 12:38 PM   #47
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Low engagement is for people who don't go under the dash and adjust the rod on the pedal.
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Old 09-08-2008, 01:13 PM   #48
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Quote:
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low engagement is for people who don't go under the dash and adjust the rod on the pedal.
qft
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:07 PM   #49
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Quote:
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Low engagement is for people who don't go under the dash and adjust the rod on the pedal.
But all that rod does is introduce more dead area to the pedal.
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:40 PM   #50
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Think this through Sam. If you can introduce "dead area", what is the other thing you can do...
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:00 PM   #51
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Quote:
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Think this through Sam. If you can introduce "dead area", what is the other thing you can do...
I dunno man. Last time I played with it, all it did was change freeplay at the top. Meaning it just changed how far the pedal traveled inward you can feel resistance of the slave.

Maybe I just dont remember well enough, but if you say I can adjust it in such a way to make it engage at least half way then I will believe you.
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Old 09-08-2008, 11:21 PM   #52
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There needs to be a bit of dead pedal. If not, the throwout bearing stays loaded all the time and could fail prematurely. Taken to the extreme, it could hold the pressure plate slightly open and cause slippage.
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:16 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
I dunno man. Last time I played with it, all it did was change freeplay at the top. Meaning it just changed how far the pedal traveled inward you can feel resistance of the slave.

Maybe I just dont remember well enough, but if you say I can adjust it in such a way to make it engage at least half way then I will believe you.
When I first installed my clutchnet red2x clutch it released on the floor. I adjusted the rod and now it releases almost at stock height and it doesn't slip at 12+psi.
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:50 AM   #54
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I love my ACT. Very glad I didn't go cheaper. Holds the power and my wife didn't even notice it. But she has huge legs.
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:56 AM   #55
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^ with replies like that proof better follow soon.
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Old 09-09-2008, 12:21 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
I dunno man. Last time I played with it, all it did was change freeplay at the top. Meaning it just changed how far the pedal traveled inward you can feel resistance of the slave.
there is two adjustments, one to change at what point the pedal engages the pp, and the other to adjust freeplay at the top. Sounds to me like you never touched the other one. you have to loosen the nut on the rod and physically spin the rod in and out or something like that.
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Old 09-09-2008, 12:28 PM   #57
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make the rod longer. so so only have to push it so far for it to extend the slave rod faster.
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Old 09-09-2008, 12:50 PM   #58
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Yeah I have adjusted mine and that is how you do it. Loosen the lock nut, turn the rod, retighten. I think there is a how-to on m.net somwehere. It is just a bitch to crawl under that dash and get to it as it is confined just like most everything else under there.
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Old 09-10-2008, 01:32 AM   #59
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I've got an ACT 6-puck (unsprung) with a SPEC pressure plate in my GT and like it a fair bit. I do get occasional chatter, and miss the ability to feather it (driving in the snow was... interesting) but it will take all the abuse I can throw at it (6500rpm launch with the flatshift engaged) and still be reasonable to drive every day.

Plus, no one ever asks to borrow the car
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Old 09-10-2008, 04:33 AM   #60
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sam, the reason I decided to stay away from spec was the construction of it. the spring tabs to be specific, they are poorly designed and have been known to fail and let the spring just out of place. act and the rest doesn't use tabs but rather keep the spring in place with a solid indention. cannot fail.

I am still undecided between act and clutchnet, but either way I go it will be a solid sprung organic disc with the highest rated pressure plate either offers.
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