Finally replaced my Spec Stage 2+ with a new ACT ZM2-XTSS and took it to VIR for 3 days; South Course on Sat & Sun, Full Course on Mon.

The Spec clutch had gotten really hot at some point. The PP and Flywheel both showed discoloration from extreme heat, though no slippage had ever been noticed. There was an area on VIR North course where you turn right uphill on to the crossover that you would hear the motor rpm creap up like a clutch slip, but I always wrote it off as the LSD working though I never felt the diff working (like the back end swimming). It did it with both a 1.6 Viscous LSD and an RX7 disc stack LSD at the same point on the same track when you were really on the edge. This clutch falls into the std clamping force/high friction disc category. The disc is not made with pad material all the way around, but rather has seperate pads spaced around the disc on both sides in a puck like fashion. Starting out in 1st gear had always been a bit tricky - it was pretty grabby and if you didn't go ahead and commit the gas it would stall out. Reverse had judder. After inspecting after 2+ seasons of use, I think it was underclamped for my 200 RWHP track car.

After I had about 250 miles on the Spec clutch for break in, I drove it to VIR. When I stopped on the way for gas, there was quite a bit of light smoke coming from the car. It wasn't oil or brakes. I supposed it was just part of the clutch break in. I'm betting this is where the discoloration came from.

The ACT ZM2-XTSS is a totally different animal from the Spec clutch. The pedal stiffness was only slightly stiffer than the Spec or a stock clutch, engagement point didn't seem any different. Engagement into first was much smoother and easier with no judder in reverse. This clutch is totally smooth and I like using it better.

I threw the ACT clutch into the car the weekend before going to the track with minimal testing in the street - virtually no break in. The car was trailered to the track and then dogged on for 3 days. No smoking ever.

I've always had friends tell me to get nothing but an ACT. I can now see why based on my experience with these two clutches.

 

So what do you guys think I should do.

Not dick around and get an ACT or risk the cheaper Clutchnet?

I need to swap my clutch but I whole bunch of expenses fell on my plate, and I need to spend wisely.

 

YES,spend the money and buy the ACT clutch.

You have read enough experiences on here about other clutches to know that the ACT clutch is the one to get.

Don't **** around,spend the extra money,do it right the first time around.

If you decide to be a cheap *** and buy a clutchnet or some other brand of inferior clutch and a month later down the road you run into problems,don't bother posting about it,cause we don't want to hear about it.

 

get ACT so far its been the best money i ever spend. my friend has the cheap f1 stage 3 what a piece of crap. slips and burns all the time. i have my act 3 years now and its the best ever.

 

I'm trying to figure if the clutchnet is even cheaper...

 

Clutch net was only $10 cheaper than my ACT.

 

Alright, guess I wont dick around and get a ACT for peace of mind.

Heres a good question.

What method is best to get enough room to work under the car. Jack stands or ramps?

If I get ramps the back of the car stays on the ground, if I use my jackstands im gonna need a new jack.

 

you need jack stands. The tranny is taller than you think, especially if you put it on a jack or something to get it out.

 

I think I read in the m.net instructions you need at least 18". I got mine up that high and had just enough room to lift it a bit and pull it out. With a jack under it there was no way it would have come out.

 

jack that bitch up as high as you can, get some long *** extensions, and a swivel bit, an an impact wrench...and a tranny jack . don't forget to drain the tranny.

 

Speaking of jacking.

Can I use the K member as a jack point?

 

yes. I usually park the front on 2x4s. jack up the rear from the dif and put two jack stands on the rear. then jack the front up on the k-member and put two more up front. go back to the rear and raise it, go back to the front and raise it.

 

The higher the better. I used the ramps under the front wheels for insurance, but hte wheels were not even close to them.

I have a decent writeup on m.net. If you want, I'll get it for you. It's pretty stress free if you follow my instructions.

Oh yeah, and go with ACT.

 

I think you should post a link to it. Hopefully it will be found in future searches

 

Try to beat our record....with the car jacked up, and everything in place (meaning fluids and exhaust and driveshaft.) It took us (us being two guys) approximately 2 hours from start to finish (still on jack stands, all fluids and parts replaced). This was of course after the 3rd time I had to drop it in a week...

 

You don't need to drain tranny. Seal the back of the trans with a rubber glove and duct tape.

 

+1. Rubber glove and a zip tie is easy and works great.

 

The last time my transmission was out we used a lift. 45 minutes in the air and we were done. Helps having a friend who is a Mazda Tech. I think the book time on R&R transmission/clutch is over 4 hours.

 

zomg brilliant....maybe i'll beat my own record next time. next time i do a clutch im going to stick with a heavy pp and street disc.

 

2 hours doing a transmission on the ground is a pretty amazing feat. I'll likely be pulling mine this winter to fix a leaking rear seal :( I doubt I'll do it in 2 hours, I'm budgeting two weeks.